Optimal timming gear position?
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Optimal timming gear position?
I've heard that setting the cam to pre-72 specs is better somehow. I take it the timming was changed for emissions.
What position do I time the gears at to achieve this? I'm asuming its just a tooth or two this way or that, or do I have to buy a pre-72 gear?
What position do I time the gears at to achieve this? I'm asuming its just a tooth or two this way or that, or do I have to buy a pre-72 gear?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
Originally Posted by Handegard
So I get the timming set of a pre-72 429? I looked around parts america, and they didn't have the 460 listed in any vehicles from that year, not that I trust them....
Post Fiend
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From: Union, Washington
Originally Posted by Handegard
And pistons 
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From: Oakdale,Ca.
Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
You either have to have a gear set that has the other timing positions built in (you can't move the chain one tooth) or you need a pre-1972 timing set (this is easiest and cheapest).
Thing is, retarding or advancing (when needed) is usually within +/- 4*'s, any more has poor effects on cam timing, engine runs poorly.
I don't recall how many teeth are on the gear, but generally when you're "off a tooth"-as you're suggesting you'd like to do, you change the cam timing a good 14/15*'s, mayeb a bit more or less, but well outside the range that the engine will perform better.
If you look at an aftermarket timing set, you'll see (usually) three positions in the crank gear where the keyway goes. Depending on which one you use, you have -4, 0, or +4 . Note that the keyways are not next to each other, but put around the center kinda an equa distance from each other, but if you look closely, you'll see that each keyway lines up differently under a tooth on the gear.. and when you change postion (assume you leave the cam gear postuion alone) you have to rotate the carnk forward or back to get the dots to line back up.
Anyway, thought I'd try to explain why you can't do it, hope it makes some sense.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Western Central NV
I went the route of buying a Cloyes TRUE street roller set with a 3 keyway setting. It was $39 through Jegs.com. You can't get much cheaper than that. My 460 is set 4 degrees advanced for torque.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Hesperia, CA
Originally Posted by kermmydog
I went the route of buying a Cloyes TRUE street roller set with a 3 keyway setting. It was $39 through Jegs.com. You can't get much cheaper than that. My 460 is set 4 degrees advanced for torque.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Rome, GA
When I built my engine I didnt know about the factory retard issue. My 460 was strong but didnt have what I thought it should. I found out about the factory retard and bought an after market chain that had the three positions built into it. I pulled down the front of the motor and put in the new chain in the 0 degree TDC position. It was worth the work, that change made all the difference in the world. I would bet it added 50+ HP. The truck really came to life.
Fleet Mechanic
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From: Hesperia, CA
As I stated to kermmydog, I tried all three positions. There was a whale of a difference between the retarded position and the top dead center position. From the o to +4 the torque curve came at a little lower rpm, but the emissions came up to the point that I had to consider the trouble getting it through California smog so I put mine at the top dead center (or 0) position. This seemed to be the best compromise between performance and emissions.
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