Rust in cooling system
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: South Carolina
Rust in cooling system
94 Ranger / 4.0 / 5spd / 188000mi
Replaced radiator and thermostat last year with brand new ones and had the entire system flushed professionally, as there was a good bit of rust in it... the guys at the shop pretty much blamed it on the fact that stop leak had been put in it a few years ago... apparently that stuff is of the devil, or so they say
. Anyway, it's boiling over again but the guage isn't getting hot. Took the cap off and found major rust and scale buildups on the walls inside the radiator neck as well as inside the hoses. I figured I'd take out the t'stat and try flushing it again but I need to know if there's anything out there that will really eliminate this rust/scale problem.
Just wondered what you guys might recommend. Will the standard on the shelf flush products do the trick here, or should I look for something stronger or better?
Replaced radiator and thermostat last year with brand new ones and had the entire system flushed professionally, as there was a good bit of rust in it... the guys at the shop pretty much blamed it on the fact that stop leak had been put in it a few years ago... apparently that stuff is of the devil, or so they say
. Anyway, it's boiling over again but the guage isn't getting hot. Took the cap off and found major rust and scale buildups on the walls inside the radiator neck as well as inside the hoses. I figured I'd take out the t'stat and try flushing it again but I need to know if there's anything out there that will really eliminate this rust/scale problem. Just wondered what you guys might recommend. Will the standard on the shelf flush products do the trick here, or should I look for something stronger or better?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Liberty, MO
I'd start with new upper, lower, and heater core hoses as well as a new water pump. Even a new heater core wouldnt hurt. If all is done then you've eliminated even culprit but the engine block/heads themselves.
Hoses are cheap, $30 for a high quality waterpump, probably another $30-40 for new heater core.
I'd replace the hoses either way if they're relatively old at all. Have you by chance ever noticed a film on the inside of your windshield in the winter when your defrost has been running? If you have then you'd definately need a heater core either way. Its located directly behind the glove box.
Hoses are cheap, $30 for a high quality waterpump, probably another $30-40 for new heater core.
I'd replace the hoses either way if they're relatively old at all. Have you by chance ever noticed a film on the inside of your windshield in the winter when your defrost has been running? If you have then you'd definately need a heater core either way. Its located directly behind the glove box.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: South Carolina
I am planning on replacing those things, but I still have to get the crud out or I'm gonna be right back in the same spot. I need something that will break it down and get it out of there. Maybe something to dissolve it. I'm just not sure the normal flush products that you can buy in parts stores are gonna cut it. Didn't know if anyone knew of anything stronger or not. Something like CLR, maybe? Just wondering.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
There's a very potent cooling system cleaner that is used on the '96-'99 Taurus/Sables w/3.0L vulcan engine when they develop a nasty condition known as "brown coolant". The stuff is called "Sediment/Chemical Flush" (Part # F8AZ-19A503-AA) and is referenced in this TSB: Article No. 01-11-6
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