Clarification
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Sandia Park, NM
I read a couple of posts where some folks said they had it in for a couple of months but only "recently saw the benefit while towing". How mush power from this mod? Fuel consumption goes down right? I'm paying over $800 for front pinion seal and both front inner axle sealr, am I getting stroked? Thanks!!
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Joined: Dec 2005
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Tho that price seems high, i do that work myself and its pretty easy. The seals for the front axle are 100$ for all of them you want replaced.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Sandia Park, NM
Look at this thread, helped me alot!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...confusion.html
You'll find 1oK mod 2/3 or so down this page:
http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...confusion.html
You'll find 1oK mod 2/3 or so down this page:
http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Sandia Park, NM
Anything you have to MAKE a tool for scares the hell out of me. I'm having to force myself to do the brakes on this beast to save $400 or so in labor. I need to find me a good drinkin' buddy that knows what the heck he/she's (that would be great) doin'.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Sandia Park, NM
Hey John, any advice for this cluster? More bad news from the shop. Driver's bearing/hub assy shot, brake pads cracked, all 4 shocks leaking, etc. I'm wondering how involved the bearing/hub assy is and if I should just do both at the same time. What else should I do while I'm in there, and best replacement (bang for the buck) part for this assy. Thanks. N e 1 else have input, please feel free to chime in!
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Joined: Dec 2005
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Well, i try to do things like wheel bearings, and suspension parts in pairs, such as ball joint on one side bad, replace all 4, tie rod ends, replace all etc etc. The only problem with that theory is those wheel bearings are 300$ a piece!!! So i would just replace the bad one, since you might get alot of miles out of it, also you need to find out if its the hole hub assy or just the needle bearing, the needle bearing(tho ford can't find it) is availble and is only i think i paid 20$ for both. I would always do brake in pairs, not just one at a time, the shocks, well replace them all since they are all bad. The only thing you reallly nice to do the wheel bearing is a snap ring tool and common hand tools. Ill try to find a link to the ball joints, since i shows how to install the new seals on the axle(except for the pinion seal), and how to remove the wheel bearing. The tool you have to make is easy, or you might(MIGHT) beable to go to a ford dealer, and have them press them on for you. It sounds like your getting into a very expensive job if you have the shop do it.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Sandia Park, NM
Yep, I can't add that high with the numbers they gave me. I thought $800+ was crazy just for the pinion seal and the axle seal. I had them go ahead and do those for me, but the rest I will do myself. How do I tell if it is the whole assy as opposed to the needle bearing? The lady at the shop told me it was sealed so they couldn't even squirt some grease in there for me. Is she just confused as to which part is called what? I was quite happy on the deal I got on this truck (details above) for under 15K, but that happiness is rapidly dwindling! Thanks for all your help, I owe ya a beer or two.
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No she isnt well kinda. The unit assy has 2 bearings. On that is a sealed that you can't do anything if its gonna die its gonna die, the other is a roller bearing. That one can be greased, and replaced if it is wiped out. Here is a link for you to check out http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/nblube.html. Props to guzzle for the instructions.
The way you can check to see if its the main bearing(the expensive one) is to jack up that side of the truck. If you feel play, determine if its the hub assy by looking where the play is coming from.
LOL, i know what you mean about a deal, i thought i got one on my truck until pop went the tranny. I woulda pay'd more for a truck that had a good built trans that i knew would not have failed(oh and one where the torque convertor is what they said it was!!!!!!!!!)
The way you can check to see if its the main bearing(the expensive one) is to jack up that side of the truck. If you feel play, determine if its the hub assy by looking where the play is coming from.
LOL, i know what you mean about a deal, i thought i got one on my truck until pop went the tranny. I woulda pay'd more for a truck that had a good built trans that i knew would not have failed(oh and one where the torque convertor is what they said it was!!!!!!!!!)
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Sandia Park, NM
Lol, I can't believe my g/f is actually being cool about this whole thing. Must be because she's out of town. Anyway, they say the other hub assembly is bone dry and can't be lubed. I can't figure out how they'd be able to tell a sealed bearing is dry, I noticed the camber is way off on the bad side. I guess that explains the "Man it feels like the wheels are gonna come out from under this thing when I turn" feeling I had driving it from Ft Worth to Albuquerque. I guess I'm up the creek for tonight since the dealer is closed and it seems they're the only place to get the o-rings from. Dang guzzle's page has a lot of info. What's the need for a manual TC lockup?
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