To some this is probably a stupid question, but I have to ask so I will know.

Is it possibel to change either the low pressure switch on the accumulator and/or the high pressure switvh on the compressor without R&R the freon?

I thought there might be some type of valve there to allow the sensors be replaced with discharge/re-charge the system.

Someone let me know

Thanks
ra

 

yes both have schrader valves under them. All you need to unscrew them and replace them. You might get a little pssst of gas but that's it unless the schrader valve is bad.

 

Brian is correct. they have schrader valves that keep the refrigerant in.

 

UPDATE

I replaced BOTH the LP switch and the HP switch and the comp. still runs continously.

Does anyone else have a truck that the A/c compressor never cycles off??

The A/c works good and is cold, so I guess I won't mess with it for now, but when I do new comp., orifice tube, and accum. as stated before.

thanks if anyone has an additional comment
ra

 

Your compressor is supposed to constantly when your ac is on. If it shuts of you have a pressure issue or a switch issue

 

oh OK,

well, as I stated in my first post, I don;t know much about a/c systems. I read in a haynes manual at the parts house briefly and it showed a graph demonstrating the # of seconds the compressor was suppose to cycle off...or at least I thougth that was what it was saying........

The pressure is constant, so I guess all is good except for the seal leaking

thanks for the input brimmstone
ra

 

the only way you can tell if the compressor is running all the time is visually, usually at an idle ...There is no way to tell if it is off while you are going down the road....Is it hot where you are?.....

 

it should cycle when the LS pressure dips below 30psi the LS pressure switch will cycle it. Are you sure the compressor is not running all the time period?? Even when the control is off? You might have a stuck clutch.

 

No its not hot here right now becasue of all the rain. It will be plenty hot soon and I will check the pressure again then.

The clutch is not stuck.
It will turn off either when you turn the control off in the cab or unplug either pressure switch when engine is running and A/c turned on.

Thanks
ra

 

I would bet your clutch wires are crossed or someone bypassed the switch. It should cut off. Fords were set at 24-26 I think cut off pressure.
With the engine off see if you can turn the clutch face by hand. That will eliminate the stuck clutch.

Venting any type of chlorine based refrigerant into the atmosphere is illegal BTW. It doesn't matter if it's R-12 or 124A. Who's gonna know though right? I have my own recovery machine but there is a thing called diminimus loss that the feds can't do anything about. I forget the amount but if it's leaking small amounts it's not your fault.

If Oreilleys is telling you that you have to replace the condensor also then I'd tell them to stick it. They are scamming you.
The orifice tube and Accumulator are industry standard must replace items when doing a compressor. I've never in my life heard anything about replacing the condensers also. They are so easy to clean it's not even funny.

What they told you about the FX-10 is partly true about the piston parts clogging things up but usually it's the orifice tube, not the condensor. Just think of the AC flow diagram and you'll understand.

Whatever you do don't get a 4 seasons replacement compressor. I've replaced more of them than any other brand. I never once had a comback job on a factory replacement and very few on factory air brand. Although now I think factory air and four seasons are the same company so who knows. Just don't go cheap on the compressor.

I have to replace mine now too. It plugged the orifice tube and blew the front seal on a trip to Nashville a few weeks ago. I got way too many pans in the fire to do it is the only reason it's not done yet. It hit 101 outside yesterday though so I need to hurry up. My house has a swamp cooler instead of normal AC and I just finished tweeking that thing a few days ago. It's holding a 20-25 deg temp drop between inside and outside temps now. That will save me some major money if I can keep that up.

 

Here is some reading on the subject.....


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-134a

Especially the part about" without an ozone depletion potential".....