Does anyone have any idea regarding how much paint it would take to paint a roadking motorcycle? With saddle bags.
Just the paint.
One pint or a full quart total???

 

Are you painting the just the fenders, tank, and bags or the frame as well?

If its just the body parts a quart will probably be more than enough.

 

Sorry, I was not clear.
Just the saddle bags.
How much paint would it take to paint JUST the fiberglass saddle bags?

 

I have a little experience with custom painting, having done a lot of work with my Wrangler Rubicon I painted everything from the KC-light housings to color-match the jeep , to re-painting the entire jeep after rolling it. I started off with one-gallon of paint because I knew that would cover all future touch-ups perfectly.

If you're using a 2-stage, opposed to 1-stage, paint then you'll be a lot better off. If you don't already know, that's what the pro's use. Two-stage paint allows you to wetsand the color coat until it's virtually flawless, then you apply the clear-coat; which also allows you to wetsand and spray your second coat over, before buffing to a mirror finish.

The two-stage method will allow your paint to be color-matched very closely to your frame/tank, unlike the one-stage method, which has the clear and color mixed. Your local paint mixer's skills will depend upon how close either paint will match the desired color, but a majority of mixers will agree that two-stage paint is the better of the two choices.

The problem with one-stage paint is that any imperfections are going to really stand out, that piece of lint that landed in the paint on the first application is going to be compounded three-fold by the time the last coat of is applied. As it would with a two-stage paint, but you can get rid of those imperfections a lot earlier because you have the ability to wetsand each coat.

For two fiberglass saddlebags I would say that a pint of paint is more than enough for a one-time application, because in most cases you can easily thin it by 50%, giving you the ability to apply at least two coats of color per "bag."

KEEP IN MIND however, that it's always safe to have more paint than you need, for future touch-ups or other projects, so you might want to get a full quart? With a two-stage paint the touch-ups are a lot easier to perform than a one-stage paint is!

I've tried both and favor the color/clear method.

I would get a quart because the pint of paint you have color-matched today might not look the same as a pint you have color-matched a year from now. Then, you get one pint of clear (or a quart) and a pint of hardener (only seen sold in pints but you use very little of it with the clear), and voila, you're done--unless you have to buff out some "orange-peel?"

You don't need a fancy paint gun either, a $20 gravity fed touch-up gun from Harbor Freight is all you really want for small project projects, make sure you have an inline water filter too! That $2.50 will save you from splattering a drop or two of condensed moisture from your air compressor/hose onto your paint!

Other than that, I'd guess you'd spend around $50-$60 for all of your painting supplies, up to a $100 if you have to buy a paint-gun...borrow an air compressor if you don't have one already.

v/r,
Phil

 

Actually, I've already looked into it and found that there would be:
1) base coat
2) top coat
3) clear coat
(acrylic urethane)

Is this what you call a two stage?

So, I could apply the base coat, let it dry, wet sand then apply the top coat, let it dry, sand and then the clear coat??

thanks,

 

I think the base coat refers to the primer? The 2-stage process consists of the color-coat and the clear-coat. Here are some step-by-step instructions:

1) Sand the fiberglass saddle bags with 600-something grit wetpaper under a rubber sanding block, wipe with clean hand while rinsing with clean water, and allow it to completely dry after blowing the excess water away with compressed air.
2) Wipe the surface with a tack cloth.
3) Spray on the first coat of primer, and allow it to completely dry.
4) Wipe surface with a tack cloth.
5) Spray on a second coat of primer, and allow it to completely dry.
6) Lightly sand with 800-something grit wetpaper under a rubber sanding block, wipe with clean hand while rinsing with clean water, and allow it to completely dry after blowing excess water away with compressed air.
7) Wipe the surface with a tack cloth.
8) Spray on the first coat of color, and allow it to completely dry.
9) Lightly sand with 1000-something grit wetpaper under a rubber sanding block, wipe with clean hand while rinsing with clean water, and allow it to completely dry after blowing the excess water away with compressed air.
10) Wipe the surface with a tack cloth.
11) Spray on the second coat of color, and allow it to completely dry.
12) Lightly sand with 1400-something grit wetpaper under a rubber sanding block, wipe with clean hand while rinsing with clean water, and allow it to completely dry after blowing the excess water away with compressed air.
13) Wipe the surface with a tack cloth.
14) Spray on the first coat of clear, and allow it to completely dry.
15) Lightly sand with 2000-something grit wetpaper under a rubber sanding block, wipe with clean hand while rinsing with clean water, and allow it to completely dry after blowing the excess water away with compressed air.
16) Wipe the surface with a tack cloth.
17) Spray on the second coat of clear, and allow it to completely dry.
18) If satisfied, you're done with the painting.
19) If you're not satisfied, something fell in the clear, repeat steps 15-17 until you're satisfied. You don't want too many coats of clear, five is more than enough.
20) Only if desired....finish by polishing with a high-speed wheel.

The primer is more of a "given" than part of the color/clear application because it isn't always necessary if you're painting over something that is a neutral color.

For example, if your saddle bags were purchased without a factory paint job, or they were painted with a completely contrasting color, then you would want to use primer. If the saddle bags did come with a factory paint job that is similar to the new color you want to make them, then you don't need primer. You just have to lightly sand them to give the new paint something to bond to, and clean with a tack-cloth. Make sense?

v/r,
Phil

 

So, should I wet sand between coats?

 

I added to my previous entry.

 

First, thanks for your attention. I assume you paint or you have knowledge of painting. I did paint a 78 cj5 years ago and did ok but I'm not a painter.

My base coat is actually a color.....white.
Then the second coat is another white and
then the clear coat.
It's called pearl white for the road king.

 

I completely understand why you mentioned the three layers now! Pearl finishes have a different dimension/appearance than metallics, just as you look at a real pearl.

The process is the same with the metallics, as I outlined, except you insert the second white before the clear.

1) Primer (optional if painting over a new factory finish, prep the same though)
2) First White coat
3) Second (pearl) White
4) Clear

If you have never painted pearls before, I'd recommend you practice on something small, 8x11-inch sheet of fiberglass/sheetmetal---Just a thought?

v/r,
Phil

 

You need to read the manufacture label on the brand of paint you are using, this should tell you the mix ratios of the paint , reducer, & activator[if needed]. also, the clear coat you use will have mix ratios on it as well. Basecoat refers to the paint, for instance if someone says basecoat clearcoat, they are referring to the paint & clear. Ask for a tech sheet[product data sheet[pds sheet] ],from the place you buy your paint from. They should be able to print you one out. DuPont, for example, the ChromaBase paint has a mix ratio of 1 to 1. which means 1 part of paint to one part of the applicable basemaker[reducer]. The new DuPont clears have a mix ratio of 4 to 1. 4 parts clear to one part clear coat activator. a part can be anything. ounces, grames, etc.... This is called a two stage paint. a tri coat, or three stage paint, would be base coat, mid coat[pearl coat], and the clear coat.

 

What system of paint will you be using & what brand wil you be using? The can of paint should have the mix ratio on it from whoever mixed it for you. Here is everything i have on information of paint......
bases..... for PPG/Omni 1:1 mix
DBC - flash time 5 - 10 mins
DBU - flash time 10 - 15 mins
MBC (Economical priced) flash time 5 - 10 mins

Enamels... PPG/Omni
MAE (Economically priced) 4:1 flash time 5 - 10 mins

Acrylic urethane.....PPG/Omni
MTK (Economically priced) 4:1:1 - High solids = 4:1/2:1
DCC 4:2:1 or 4:1:2 or 2:1:2 (depends on activator used) flash time 5 - 10 or 10 -15 mins

Clears....PPG/Omni
DCU 2082 Strato-clear 2:1 flash time 2 - 5 mins
DCU 2042 low VOC speed clear4:1:1 flash time 5 - 10 mins
MC161 High solds Urethane 2:1 flash time 5 - 10 mins

Sherwin williams....
bases.....
Ultra 7000 1:1 flash time 2 - 10 mins depending on reducer

Urethane Enamel....
3rd demension 8:4:1 flash time 30 mins @ 140 degrees or 12 hours or so air dry

Acrylic enamel....
VOC acrylic 8:4:1 flash time 30 mins @ 140 degrees or 12 hours or so air dry

Primers are to fill scratches mostly so if ya have scratches spray primer a few times but sand in between the coats even on the last primer coat b4 the color coats begin. When you spray PEARLS make sure the spray pattern in the gun is where you want it first. When I spray pearls i tend to hold the gun a little farther back than when painting solid colors. As for painting with the gun go a panel at a time with 50/50 overlap. When clearing it after you color, spray a "dry" coat first then spray a wet one then wait for the flash time throw another coat on it. Dont have to wet sand between primer coats (regular sand paper) but wet sand between color coats & also clear coats. good luck

 

I agree, I have never used pearl paints before, so I'm not up to speed on how to apply them. Which is why I recommended spraying a sample first, that's what I would do. Come to think of it, I can't think of anybody in my riding group that has pearl paints...never realized that before! Mostly solids and metallics here.

He's right about the sandpaper not having to be a "wet-grade" when sanding the primer, but I usually have more of it in my garage, so it use it for everything.

As for the flash time, and spraying more color, I think that's more of a time saver and a personal preference. In the past I've color coated, allowed it to flash, then sprayed on a second to make sure there's an absolute even coat of color, then wetsand after it has dried. Then I became more comfortable with my gun and spraying technique. By the time I applied my 3rd coat of color it is perfect, then the clear coats begin.

It really comes down to technique and time I suppose?

Always follow the paint manufacturers directions for mixing paint, I simply gave a generic guideline in my previous post!

 

One thing on Pearl paints, if the air pressure is too high or the spray pattern is not wide you will see the "spray line" a big line of thick pearl paint and all the other area is normal, you will be spraying more than you like to. All ya need is more patience when doing pearls if you are not experienced with them. Also depending on how hot it is the flash times will be reduced by the heat makin the reducer evaporate from the paint faster.

 

Finished!
Results were fine....not great but I'm satisfied. Small run in the clear coat but could wet sand that out if I wanted.
Oh yea, 16 oz's of paint at each stage is too much paint. Could how gotten by with maybe 8 oz's, which becomes more since I had to add the activator and the reducer.
Anyway, the pearl sprayed on good. I could use some pratice though. Saved money doing it myself and was able to buy a new gun.
FX-100, by sharpe.
Again, the paint I used was "AU"
'base coat (white)
'pearl coat (whiteish, blueish, greenish) Hence "pearl"
'clear coat