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Rough Idle v-10

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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 10:26 AM
  #16  
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35 at idle is kinda high... it should be 28-30.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 02:33 PM
  #17  
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When driving if I would let off the throttle it would drop to about 28-30 but if just sitting there idling it would be aroung 35psi
 
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 11:22 PM
  #18  
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That's strange... sounds like the fuel regulator diaphragm is cracked.

If you have the right vacuum at idle (15-17 inches), pressure should be at that 28-30 at idle.

When you decelerate, and produce even more vacuum, upwards of 20 inches, then you get the required 28-30 lbs.

Not to say that the fuel pressure regulator is bad, but I'd check the vacuum levels to see what they are at idle. Report back
 
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 06:46 AM
  #19  
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Art ,I believe the fuel pressure should be 35-40 constant,nothing below that.
underload or idle.

thanks for the welcome back,a trip to michagan was the cause.

Again not saying rough idle is caused by fuel pressure but its a basic engine chk that should be done.
Most people forget about the basic engine chks before changing parts.
fuel
ignition
compression
etc.

Rich
 
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 11:35 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by FortyFords
Art ,I believe the fuel pressure should be 35-40 constant,nothing below that.
Then what's the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator for?

And here's Ford's specs from the book:

Fuel Pressure ³
ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ´
³ 5.4L and 6.8L Gasoline Engine ³ 193-310 (28-45) ³
³ Running kPa (psi) ³ ³
ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÅÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ´
³ 5.4L and 6.8L Gasoline ³ 240-310 (35-45) ³
³ EngineÄKey On Engine Off kPa ³ ³
³ (psi) ³ ³

Notice the higher spec for key-on/engine-off? No vacuum to the regulator, so it goes to full.

At idle, it's usually 28-30 because vacuum is high.

At least, that was other MPFI Ford's I've worked on. I haven't checked my V10. However, we did have someone go through the key-on/engine-off and key-on/engine-idling difference and they had about 30 and 40 respectively.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 04:07 PM
  #21  
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Was there ever a solution for this problem. My 99 F-250 started doing the exact same thing yesterday. I replaced the IAC and TPS and still have the problem.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 06:16 PM
  #22  
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Mine has the same problem. I think I may have just found the problem. I checked the pcv valve and it seemed fine. I followed the hose from the pcv to the intake manifold and found a huge hole in the hose. it was so big that I could put my finger in it. I am going to replace the hose and reset the computer tomorrow and see if it helps. Its gotta help something. Does anyone know where I can get parts like this shipped out fast if the dealer doesn't have it. Inside the pcv hose was very oily. Is this normal?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 06:31 PM
  #23  
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The problem is not solved yet. I've been real busy lately.
However it does smell like its running rich.
the first time it did something similar a couple years ago it was a hole in the pcv hose, but not this time.
I bought my hose from the dealer but had to order it, and of corse the dealer had never heard of it happening before.
Keith
 
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 08:50 PM
  #24  
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I was able to fix mine today. 2 holes in the PCV tube right under the throttle body. One at the 90 degree bend and one closer to the intake. I made the new piece longer so that it does not have such a bend in it and I used heater hose. It looks like it will work better than factory. Please let me know if you find out what is going on with yours.
Thanks
Tom
 
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 09:36 PM
  #25  
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I fixed mine today with heater hose. Idles smooth again. But the heater hose is touching the intake manifold. Will this burn the rubber? Or is it heat resistant enough.
Budman
 
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:15 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Budman1962
I fixed mine today with heater hose. Idles smooth again. But the heater hose is touching the intake manifold. Will this burn the rubber? Or is it heat resistant enough.
Budman
You should be good to go. If you are really concerned about it, then you could always get some extra heater hose...and slice it down the middle (like gutting a fish)...and slip it over as a heat shield.

Nice job!

biz
 
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 05:27 AM
  #27  
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When I first tried repairing mine a couple years ago I used heater hose and when it heated up it got too flexible and collapsed. So I ended up using a couple small hose pieces with a piece of 1/2 inch elect conduit for the bend untill my ford part came in, it got me by.
Keith
 
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 02:13 PM
  #28  
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I know its been a while but I finally got a chance to spend more time on the truck. Well I decided to check the EGR valve by pulling it off, I removed it and when shaking it I could hear it rattling inside. Its saturday later in the day here and no parts stores open so I decided to open the crimped seam to see inside. The metal portion of the rubber diaphragm was partially broken inside and would not hold onto the valve stem. Temporary fix for the w/e but I crimped the metal to the stem and re crimped the edges of the housing back together, its all good for now, will order another monday.

Thanks for everyones help
Keith
 
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