Does anyone have or know of a AC charging chart for a 2002 SuperDuty?thx

 

There isn't a "charging chart" per se, but there is a pressure-temperature chart in the shop manual. Why do you ask? What problem are you having with your AC?

 

No chart just pressures for high and low side.

 

My AC doesnt blow as cold as my old sd, i think its low on 134. A buddy of mine(ac guy) is asking for the chart so we dont have to evacuate the system and refill it, alot longer process what do you gents think???

 

The year, model, and symptoms would help greatly in forming an opinion. In any case, I think that if the refrigerant is actually low, you have a leak. Leaks always get worse, not better.
It sounds like maybe your buddy is an HVAC guy, so I'll proceed on that assumption. (an MVAC guy whould be able to do without a P/T chart).
It is often acceptable to "top off" an HVAC system. On these small MVAC systems, the charge is comparatively small and critical to within a couple of ounces, and the "correct" way to insure the proper charge is to evacuate the system and weigh in the charge (this is where the 12oz cans come in handy if you don't have a scale).
HVAC and MVAC systems are similar in operational theory, but are otherwise very different animals. Topping off an MVAC system without fixing a leak is false economy. An evacuation and recharge can be done in about an hour (not counting repairing the leak). That's not very time consuming IMHO.
Also remember that there are many things unrelated to the system charge that can affect cooling in a vehicle. This is where HVAC and MVAC systems diverge greatly in practice.
Hope this helps, even just a little.

 

I have a tranny cooler mounted on the condensor coil, which i think maybe adding heat to the condensor coil, its surface area is about 10in square.(thoughts?) Thats one idea, and of course all the orings in the system can leak. I went after it with a leak detector and couldnt find it in the engine compartment but havent tried overnight and checked the floor boards for 134. Is there anywhere that they normally leak? I have thought about buying those little cans and adding a couple ounces at a time until it gets as cold as my old 1997 E350 7.3PSD, that thing would freeze you out, my current one not so much. thx for ur help

 

The trans cooler could very well be an issue is it's an aftermarket unit.

Do you know for sure if the system is low on charge? If so, how? There are many things unrelated to refrigerant charge that will adversely affect cooling.

Does it cool better on the highway?
What is the temperature of the air coming out of the vents?
Have you checked the system pressures?
Beside the trans cooler, is there anything else that could change the airflow through the front of the vehicle from stock? Air dams, ground effects, aftermarket grille?
Are all of the original air dams, etc. still in place?
Have you ever flushed/cleaned the face of the condenser and between the condenser and radiator, this is a big issue in dusty or muddy areas.

You can also try clamping off one of the heater hoses, this will give an idea of blend door issues.

 

Ya the cooler is aftermarket which hopefully will be changed soon the one that doesnt mount directly on the coil. Everything else is the way it should be up front. It does seem to run cooler on the freeway. As far as system checks and cabin temp i dont have numbers for you. I dont even know for sure if its low on 134 but overall its cool air just not as COLD as i want it Besides i live in FL 91 degrees with 88percent humidity today, got to love that. I can live with it especially after moving the tranny cooler cause i think that is probably the biggest part of the problem.
To keep it cool in the truck i just have to run the fan wide open, is that common in a crew cab? Maybe thats just the realization im going to have to come to. Thx for ur help

 

Aaahhhh, Crew Cab. Lots of glass for sun load and a large area with only vents in the dash. That's about as good as it gets at +90 degrees and 80% humidity. Lower your expectations even more if it's a dark color truck and/or a dark interior. Move that trans cooler ASAP. If you have the "triple whammy" (crew cab, dark exterior, dark interior) the system needs all of the help you can give it.
Get the gauges on it first thing and rule out a low charge. At the temp/humidity you gave, look for 28-32 psi low, ~230-240 psi high (Max ac, high blower, doors open, 1500 rpm)
Rule out heat form the heater core leaking into the air stream in the dash by clamping off a heater hose. I don't believe there is a coolant valve in this truck, but check to make sure. If there is one, make sure it is working.

The better cooling on the highway is hopeful. Have your guy hook up the gauges and look at the high side pressure. It should be 2.5 times the ambient temp or a little higher.(Max ac, high blower, doors open, 1500 rpm) Mist some water from a hose over the condenser. If the high side pressure drops like a stone, the fan clutch is getting weak, replace it. (Motorcraft part only, on that truck)
If the pressure drops slowly, but more than ~30psi, you might try an additional electric "pusher" fan in front of the condenser.
You could "possibly" tweak the charge a couple of ounces in either direction and see a result. (If you drop the blower speed a notch and the discharge air gets colder, this may work). You would need an accurate thermometer to measure the temperature of the Evaporator inlet and outlet tubes. They should be as near equal as possible with the suction line cool back to the compressor.
Don't try this until you have the best airflow over the condenser as possible. This would be after the fan clutchreplacement or addition of an auxullary fan.
Tinting the windows can also help with the sun load, even if only the rear and back side glass. You don't have to go gangster, but the darker you make it the less the sun load will be through the glass. This is purely optional, but has helped a lot in hard to cool vehicles.

Hope this helps, even a little bit.

 

Dark Blue(true blue) with tinted windows, grey interior. LOL, thanks for your input, i will start with the tranny cooler, then maybe aux fan, if your curious see my gallery.

 

I'm headed to your gallery. It's always nice to see the vehicle in question. I love Diesel Crew Cab Fords. They're the ultimate "not a girls bike" trucks. You could paint one pink and still not question your testosterone level.

Hold off on the auxillary fan until you test the fan clutch! It has to be doing it's job even with the add on. It only takes a few minutes to test it. At 4-5 years old, there's a good chance it's weak. (5-8 years is the usual life expectancy, somebody has to be on the low end of that range).
Clamp off the heater hose too! It sounds trivial, but air leaks in the box can cause really crappy AC performance. The check is free.

Whew, you dodged a bullet with the (light?)grey interior and window tint.

Keep us posted. I'd like to see you chillin' .

 

Hey Ben,
I just looked at your gallery. Sweeet truck! Eyecatching, but not overboard with mods. Good job! I've always liked the blue/silver combo. It's been a staple on Ford vehicles for a long time, but it's still my favorite in this era of bright red pickup trucks.

I see you have the mileage listed as 100K+. Replace that fan clutch first thing. Don't test it, and don't even question if it's good. It's done it's job and is worn out. You WILL notice an improvement in the AC with a new Motorcraft fan clutch, guaranteed. (move the tranny cooler, of course)
Clean the front of the condenser, too. Spray the front of the condenser (behind the grille) down heavily with Simple Green cleaner, let it soak for 20 minutes keeping it wet with cleaner, then flush with a garden hose. A soft bristle brush helps break the bug goobers loose.
Being a diesel, do the back side of the radiator also. It gets gunked up from fumes. I don't know how, but it does. Use a soft brush to soften the skundge.
You'll also notice that the engine temp will run a bit cooler by doing these things.

Being a 2002, I was figuring 50-70K miles. That's when the fan clutch and condenser fouling start to come into question. By 100K, they are normal maintenence issues.

Good Luck, and let us know how it works out.

 

Forgive my ignorance, but is the fan clutch a pain to change? Can i score one at Napa? I do most of my own wrenchin but i havent ever had to change a fan clutch before.
Thanks for the props on my truck, i love my girl. Its a little hard to tell from the pics but its actually Dark blue with gold on the bottom, and the interior is tan, i dont know what i was thinkin when i said grey.lol.

 

You can buy A fan clutch at NAPA. For this vehicle and AC system, you should only use an OEM type Motorcraft clutch. (based on my opinion and experience).
I believe the fan and clutch are actually screwed onto the end of the water pump. There are special wrenches needed, but you can rent them from many chain stores like AutoZone. Be careful, many (all?) of them had left hand threads.
You'll need to loosen the fan shroud and pull it upward along with the fan to get the fan asy. out. Once you look at it you'll see what I mean.

 

Once the clutch is off the waterpump, the whole assy, comes out? Then take the clutch off the fan, right?