Newbee cab removal
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,866
Likes: 1
From: Rockford, Il
okay will this work for my 89? is it easier to replace the floors, rockers and corners, or go ahead and swap cabs? i am picking up a nice bodied 150 6/5gear. thinking i will sell it for 1500, or strip it for the needed parts for my 250. Dan
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 110
From: Northshore, MN
Dan, that 89 cab is heavier. I had one that I lifted with a cherrypicker, but I learned two(maybe more) things. 1: a piece of longer tube will be needed. Mine didn't clear the frame by tightening a ratchet (cgu) strap across the top through the door openings, and picking it off with the hook tightened to the hoist tube. It also swung which left a crease in the top back of the cab, it also seperated the seams at the drip rails by the weight of the cab hanging. 2: The next step was to run big eye bolts thru the cab mounts and criss-cross the chains and bolt them together in the center. This doesn't work well either, unless a couple friends can help balance it. The dash/firewall is alot heavier than the rest. my cab tilted forward on me and went nose diving into the frame. pushing up from inside the cab might stretch the roof's metal, so be careful there, too.
I learned that despite removing the seat and doors, the dash would need to come out, too. With the extended tube, you lose lift capacity, but being careful, it should work. Maybe a spreader-bar set up might work, too. Just watch those drip rails.
I learned that despite removing the seat and doors, the dash would need to come out, too. With the extended tube, you lose lift capacity, but being careful, it should work. Maybe a spreader-bar set up might work, too. Just watch those drip rails.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,866
Likes: 1
From: Rockford, Il
thanks Havi, i was actually thinking that maybe a couple 2x4s under the cab, and a few strong buddies. i will remove the bed, then the cab, so we dont have to lift to far, just up and straight back, and then reverse. i remember those beds being heavy from my bodyshop lacky days, it took between 4-6 of us. yea this is gonna suck but not nearly as bad as trying to repair it. with enough a/kissin i might be able to take it to work and use a crane with the 2x's under it. if i got them both completely ready and just went in to swap them i wouldnt think it would take very long. thanks again. Dan
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 739
Likes: 1
From: Murfreesboro, TN
Newbee Cab removal 53 F100
Originally Posted by 1Digger
If you have the doors off, you can use the cherry picker from the inside, no extensions required. I have a pic in my gallery of this.
For the steering wheel, I wouldn't bother taking the wheel off if you are taking the column and steering box out too. Remove the acess panels at the column, disconnect the steering box from the pitman arm and frame, and pull the whole assembly out through the cab. Those bolts will probably be easier than getting the wheel off.
My $.02
For the steering wheel, I wouldn't bother taking the wheel off if you are taking the column and steering box out too. Remove the acess panels at the column, disconnect the steering box from the pitman arm and frame, and pull the whole assembly out through the cab. Those bolts will probably be easier than getting the wheel off.
My $.02
I have a shop manual that doesn't show a "pitman arm"... but I'm thinking that it's the same thing as the "steering arm".
MY QUESTION...
HOW TO REMOVE THAT NUT??? It is on REALLY tight and has a split nut top???? Sorry to be such a NEWBEE
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 907
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City, Mo
Disassembly
I just went through the steering wheel removal on a newer thread. Much helpful advice on the subject. On my 1950F-1, I had two frame bolts(one had a cotter key) plus two bolts in the arm on each side of the cab. This is what I found during bolt removal. Rusty threads lodge under the nuts and lockup removal. I used a small wire brush then my tap and die set to clean the threads plus WD-40. The fender bolts were easier to tighten to the point that they twisted off. Mine were rusted to the bed.I used a pair of vice grips on the roundhead bolts if they turned during removal. Back fenders off. Bed off. Cab and front end ready to remove as soon as I can snag some helpers.Have a great day, chuck
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