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Bed removal - how difficult

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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 12:04 PM
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Bed removal - how difficult

Howdy everyone -

My truck has an old gooseneck hitch in it that will require bed removal to replace (was there when I bought the truck). While the bed is off, I'm going to do some suspension mods that will be much easier without the bed.

How difficult is it to pull the bed? Is there anything other than the 8 bolts holding it to the frame, the fuel filler neck, and the wiring for the tail lights? Speaking of, how are those wires disconnected? How heavy is the bed? Is it as easy as four guys picking it up and setting it on the ground?

Lemme know what to expect!

Thanks,

- Steve
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 12:09 PM
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Cut the bolts off with a grinder and order new ones from Tousley.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 12:17 PM
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Not a bad idea... is this really easier than unbolting them though?
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 12:20 PM
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I would try unbolting what comes out easy and if they fight I would just cut them out. IIRC they are not that expensive and should only be used once.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 01:03 PM
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I had to cut 3 of mine. But me and another guy picked it up. And I'm not big by any means. Lol.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 01:12 PM
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Try removing the bolts before you cut on them, all 8 of mine came out fine. Zero rust on a Texas truck is fairly common, so they don't get so hatefully corroded in place like on Rust Belt trucks. Electric impact and IIRC T55 impact bit, they zipped right out for me. Tail lights, unscrew the housing and disconnect the connectors, then three screws for the fill neck. I don't recall there being a ground strap on the bed to remove, but that's a single 12/13mm bolt when you find one.

Harpooning the tank? Be careful and don't make it an involuntary mod by dropping a fill neck screw into the tank FWIW I think you're a smart guy for doing it this even if you were forced to, I wish I had just pulled the bed to put in my gooseneck instead of messing around with piecing it together from underneath. The tires had to come off to correctly torque a couple of bolts, so the amount of work involved with pulling the bed is really very similar.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 01:42 PM
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Are there nuts on the bottom of the bolts, or are they part of the frame? The reason that I ask is because whoever sprayed the bedliner in did a real dis-service to me by completely covering the bed bolts. I'm going to have to chip it away somehow to get a bit in from the top.

Harpooning the tank is one of the things I'm going to do while the bed is off. The other is installing a B&W (will have to cut a different hole int he bed than the one that is there, so that should be interesting). I am toying with the idea of pulling the trigger on a Firestone R4Tech kit and putting it on there at the same time. Still on the fence about it, but would definitely be easier without the bed on.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 01:56 PM
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TexasA&M, not to hijack this, I run the B&W turnover ball hitch on the 07 F350 we own. The install was pretty easy without removing the be. FWIW, I really like the B&W hitch. However I understand your reasons for pulling yours to remove the old hitch.

You can try a little acetone on the bed liner material, it will soften it right up and make it easy to remove. I had to do the same to mine when removing the bed bolts for other reasons, the liner material had filled in several of the bed bolt sockets where the Torx bit fits in. I used an electric impact, a 1/2 drive (snap on), I was able to remove all of mine without issue. I was surprised since the truck was sold new in Minnesota, registered in Iowa for 4 years, then bought by me from a dealer in California. There is definite evidence of corrosion from road salt underneath.

Good luck with your work ahead, please keep us posted.

-Mark
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 02:49 PM
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I think I may be in the market for one of these electric impacts. I've seen a lot of folks using them lately and think it would be handy for a couple of different things.

Anyhow, I'll at least have to get the right torx bit and might be doin' it old school with a ratchet.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MisterCMK
Cut the bolts off with a grinder and order new ones from Tousley.
That's what I had to do, but I don't have a Texas truck...

Originally Posted by TexasA&M
Not a bad idea... is this really easier than unbolting them though?
It can be if they are rusty.

Originally Posted by TexasA&M
I think I may be in the market for one of these electric impacts. I've seen a lot of folks using them lately and think it would be handy for a couple of different things.

Anyhow, I'll at least have to get the right torx bit and might be doin' it old school with a ratchet.
You'll need a T-50 and an impact is the way to go. Might need to start with a breaker bar first.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 05:07 PM
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Great time to harpoon the tank while the box is off. I just did mine awhile back and the only bolts that came out of the bed were the 2 at the back. The air impact was useless for removal and install. The bolts and speednuts have some kind of galvanized coating on them that make them a real buggar to install (new by the way) as well as remove.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 07:48 PM
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The impact gun worked great for me.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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I might have to put it on my list of 'necessary' tools before I start my mods this winter.

How heavy is the bed? Can I just set it on the ground, or does it need to sit up on something?
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 07:55 PM
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Two people can muscle it off. It can sit on the ground.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 07:53 AM
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Bringing this back up because I'm going to pull the bed soon. Couple more questions -

Does anyone have a link to a good set of instructions (with pictures) for harpooning the tank? I'm really looking forward to being able to fill the tank without taking an extra 10 minutes nursing it in there.

Also, do I need to support the bed by any means when putting it on the ground? I'm going to need to get in it while it is off to cut the new hole for the hitch and I don't want to bung up any of the body by doing so. Any thoughts on this?
 
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