CPS problem again!
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Bella Vista AR
CPS problem again!
My truck is setting in the Lowe's parking lot as we speak dead as crap! I have went thru 4 aftermarket CPS and now i have the gray CPS from Ford in there and I think it has failed as well. My truck had been running great after putting in the gray CPS from Ford until today. I went to leave Lowe's and the truck started and then dies as soon as I put it into gear and now it just ranks and will not start, just like when the CPS went out. I am assuming that is my problem again but what would be making these things go out so fast is there something causing it, I mean 5 in 3 months is a bunch! And like an idiot I did not get a second one when I bought my gray one so now I am waiting until tommorrowto get one from ford.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Central, Al
That points to the CPS but I would have a very close look at the harness. Pull it apart and inspect it for chaffes or cuts all the way to the 42 pin connector over the driverside valve cover. The CPS shares a ground with 4 other sensors in the harness so it could be coming from one of them, once you find that splice you can trace back to those sensors.
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From: Bella Vista AR
The harness was bad at the plug of the CPS, the wire were bare because they got brittle and the outer coating came apart. I took apart the plug and put heat shrink tubing around them and put teh plug back together. Other parts may be bad as well. What would be the easiest way to getthe henrss out to inspect it. Just unplug all sensors and pull it out?
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From: Bella Vista AR
Is there a place to buy a new wireing harness other that Ford, they want $900! I tryed to buy the plug for the CPS sensor only and they told me thta they did ot just sell the plug, which seemed odd to me. One of the brass plugs on the CPS was damaged when i removed it and it does not hold in the plug the same as before, but it seemed to plug in ok. I had the problem of CPS going out before the plug broke.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
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From: Central, Al
I get them from http://www.trademotion.com/storefron...&siteid=214072
The main engine bay harness was 570 (>1000 From dealer) and the sensor harness was 430 (800 from dealer) You will have to call to make sure you get the right one they are vehicle options specific.
The main engine bay harness starts at the PCM and makes a hoursehoe around the engine bay connecting everything. The sesor harness starts over the driverside valve cover at the 42 pin connector (where the main bay harness ends) and connects all of the engine sensors. Plan on 6 - 8 hours for R&R of both just the sensor harness can be done in 1 - 2 hours by itself.
The main engine bay harness was 570 (>1000 From dealer) and the sensor harness was 430 (800 from dealer) You will have to call to make sure you get the right one they are vehicle options specific.
The main engine bay harness starts at the PCM and makes a hoursehoe around the engine bay connecting everything. The sesor harness starts over the driverside valve cover at the 42 pin connector (where the main bay harness ends) and connects all of the engine sensors. Plan on 6 - 8 hours for R&R of both just the sensor harness can be done in 1 - 2 hours by itself.
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From: Bella Vista AR
I went to see if the truck would start and I noticed that the wait to start light doesNOT come on. I remember amiller saying that points to something, but I can not remember what.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 502
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From: The Pas, MB, Canada
I believe that the fuel bowl heater plug is on the driver's side of the fuel filter housing. I will run a search and confirm that (I just read that here on Friday, but will double check).
If your fuel bowl heater is bad, then you should leave it unplugged after you replace the fuse or it will just blow the fuse again. It should be warm enough for you to drive the truck home like that.
Me and my mighty dial-up are now off to confirm the above. I am pretty sure it is correct - that is why I posted it - but want to link to the threads so that you have more to go on than just my say so!
If your fuel bowl heater is bad, then you should leave it unplugged after you replace the fuse or it will just blow the fuse again. It should be warm enough for you to drive the truck home like that.
Me and my mighty dial-up are now off to confirm the above. I am pretty sure it is correct - that is why I posted it - but want to link to the threads so that you have more to go on than just my say so!
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From: Bella Vista AR
Fuses seemed to be ok but I will get a tester tommorow along with some fuses and test and replace any I find bad. Could it be the PCM power relay under the hood and if so is there a way to test it?
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 502
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From: The Pas, MB, Canada
from another thread ...
Originally Posted by wlihntr
you can try checking the PCM relay. its in the under hood box, its foward most realy (towards the front of the truck) just swap it with the relay directly behind it, its for the blower motor