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I think what made me send them packing all I want is a paint job that would equal to a current production vehicle.
Current production cars, even cheap ones, have paint jobs that were unobtainable other than at very high-end shops 15 yrs ago. That is a very high standard!
I've done just about what RHopper is saying; first thing in the morning the air is clean and still. I do it in the driveway, no tarps or covers. The few flaws that are from bugs or cottonwood seeds floating around buff right out. That's shooting straight acrylic enamels. IF you are using hardener, I would not even think about spraying in an enclosed space without a full outside air respirator (fed by a compressor). It will kill you!!
The whole thing was less than $200 at sams club all four sides, 10X20. A fan and your set.
I have oneof these that I bought for just this purpose.... it's 20x10. Found it a Homier sale or H.F. or somewhere... I just don'tthink that it will be large enough...
the frame on the rotisserie is 17.5' long and 5' wide. That gives you about 2' on each side and little over a foot on the ends for manuevering you and a spraygun/hose... kinda tight. I'm going to set it up this afternoon and see what it looks like with the frame inside of it.
Plan 'B' looks like this...
I'm planning on about 24' x 12' with 7-8' peak height ....still have to see what I have and have to buy before cost can be calculated on this... more later.
the tyvek house wrap sounds like a good idea... 'specially the breathable part...
John, I'd use 2x4s or 2x6 for the sill plates with the rebar stuck in drilled holes. I would also use thin wall steel electrical conduit for your arches with slip fit compression connectors at the top. With the steel conduit you could use a conduit bender and make the building more rectangular in cross section rather than 1/2 round to give more area inside. Conduit is dirt cheap and reusable.
The housewrap is better than poly, translucent (neighbors don't need to see what you are doing) no static charge, stronger (strong enough to drive on) and windproof but still breathes.
I've heard rumors that the poly sheets, visquene, or whatever you want to call it, is good to use because of the static. The theory went that the static charge of the sheet would attract the dust therby lessening the amount settling onto your freshly painted project.
That makes sense to me about the static. John, are you sure on the fan blowing in? I've always heard it should blow out with multiple filtered openings on the other end to allow the crossflow. It seems like the fan blowing in would concentrate the air flow onto one spot of the body. The last homemade paint both I saw was on my Michigan visit last year and he had the fan blowing out. Have other people used the fan blowing in with good results?? Just a word to the wise. Jag
Anybody read the June issue of Hot Rod Magazine (Foose Coupe). There is an article in there about a $98.00 paint job using thinned down (40-50% mineral spirits) Rustoleum or Tremclad paint. The thinned paint is applied using a high density foam roller. They said would take between 6-8 coats depending on the color of the base coat. Pictures and reports indicate that the final finish is of a reasonably good quality and no paint booth, compressors or high price guns are required.
The main downsides listed for this type of finish were;
- It requires many coats with drying time and wet sanding between each coat.
- Labour intensive (as indicated above)
- Limited color options
- Is not a show quality final finish.
For someone that has more time than money this sounds like a reasonable solution and if nothing else your sheet metal is protected and presentable until you can afford the high price paint job.
By the looks of the pictures the project car looks like it turned out quite well. The article goes into quite alot of detail and even they were skeptical at first and were amazed by the final product. Ther is additional information also listed in the links below.
What I should have said is I want a paint job that if it gets chipped (and we know it will) my eyes won't well up with tears. I have a excellent idea how much paint costs after all the money I wasted learning that I can't paint with this new stuff.
When I did my booth I just stuck the PVC pipe together ran some small sheet metal screw threw each joint then when I was thru I took it apart and now its in the attic.
The fan blew out thru a few filters. Some how you will need to add a lot of lights. The paint dust is attracted to the plastic sheets which ends up reducing your light.
There is a huge discussion about this over on hotrodders. It has mixed reviews.
The time it will last would be my concern. A non-catalized paint won't hold up as nearly as well as even a single stage paint. Then when you go to get a good paint job, you have to strip everything back down.
For some purposes it seems to be ok. As far as I know...no one over there has tried this so far though.
put my vinyl garage together today and rolled the frame into it....
plenty of room to paint, dance and set up a bar in the corner...
afa air in or our... everything I've read says blow in filtered air... it creates a positive pressure and air exits the seams instead of it sucking in dust/mites/etc thru the seams to float over your fresh paint... ..
here's the pics of the paint booth (w/o the sides)
The latest info I've seen actually recommends applying epoxy primer with a foam roller rather than a spray gun for panel work. No overspray, gun clean up and you're going to block sand it anyway before shooting color. I just may give it a try.
You know, if you set some plywood on that frame it would make a great place to serve the barbeque....As far as the fans blowing in or out, I remember a discussion on another site mentioning that blowing out places the fan motor in the path of the exiting paint, increasing the possibility of an explosion. They suggested either blow in, if a cheap box fan is used, or one of the body shop, spark proof fans. FWIW.
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