intake elbow pef mod
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 1
From: Middleburg, FL
I put one on my 2006 and noticed a nice improvement in how the engine runs. Overall, it runs smoother and accelerates better (it takes less throttle to get the beast up to speed). After 7K miles with the new elbow installed, I'm seeing a consistant 0.5 mpg improvement in city driving. Haven't seen a noticeable change in highway milage.
I'm very happy with this mod and think its money well spent. Keep in mind that its purpose is to reduce inlet restriction in your intake system. This will reduce the back pressure on your turbo which should, in theory, increase its long term reliability and decrease, to a small extent, the spool up time for your turbo.
I'm very happy with this mod and think its money well spent. Keep in mind that its purpose is to reduce inlet restriction in your intake system. This will reduce the back pressure on your turbo which should, in theory, increase its long term reliability and decrease, to a small extent, the spool up time for your turbo.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,798
Likes: 2
From: SoCal, SD CO. East
Originally Posted by akula22
hey guys, who here installed a new intake elbow from accufab or the other makers out there? what was your overall impression of it.
-what was the quality like, good workmanship on welds/seals?
-what was mpg like (better worse) and also turbo lag reduced?
-any seat of the pants power gain?
I was thinking about getting one and if I got one do you think a ford dealership would warranty it if I or they installed it since its not a chip or programmer?
i forgot what is the best priced one, in terms of quality on the market?
-what was the quality like, good workmanship on welds/seals?
-what was mpg like (better worse) and also turbo lag reduced?
-any seat of the pants power gain?
I was thinking about getting one and if I got one do you think a ford dealership would warranty it if I or they installed it since its not a chip or programmer?
i forgot what is the best priced one, in terms of quality on the market?
The warranty issue is up to your dealer. They are all a little different, so???
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,294
Likes: 1
From: Neptune Beach, FL
Originally Posted by Beerstalker
Just got my elbow from Dfuser yesterday. Just to verify I need to torque the three bolts into the intake manifold to 23ft/lb and the intercooler pipe clamp to 9 ft/lbs correct?
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As for the 04 issues with the TB.. You can attempt to drive it without it plugged.. I tried before Iput an 04 elbow on.. I ended up in the service department with absolutely no boost.. They had to replace the throttle valve and all went to normal.. So unplugging mine damaged it.. Somehow..
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 408
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There is no way I can torque mine to 23ft/lb. I get to about 15 and they feel like they are going to strip out. A steel bolt in aluminum thread never worked out well with me. I don't want to push my luck. If you have any suggestions I am open to them.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 408
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This is what I found, not to question you Storm. http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/Throttle%2...e%20Plate.html
I see a lot of good info from you but I know if I torque to 23 ft/lb that the threads will be shot. I could feel that one was not going to go any tighter and I was not even close to 23. I used 1/4 drive so I had a good feel of what the bolt was doing. This is all new to me and I don't want to screw it up. I have always overtightened thing and I spent to much time fixing my mistakes. I don't have the money right now to fix this one if you know what I mean. Let me know what you think.
I see a lot of good info from you but I know if I torque to 23 ft/lb that the threads will be shot. I could feel that one was not going to go any tighter and I was not even close to 23. I used 1/4 drive so I had a good feel of what the bolt was doing. This is all new to me and I don't want to screw it up. I have always overtightened thing and I spent to much time fixing my mistakes. I don't have the money right now to fix this one if you know what I mean. Let me know what you think.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
torq till they feel snug then run it for a while then recheck...Keep in mind it is fine thread alum manifold...easy to strip..tighten down till tight then a hair bit more and leave em...also torque in a cati-corner sequence.
mainly the CA trucks trip the cells with it unplugged...
Originally Posted by Beerstalker
If you do have pins inside the port, you can try driving with the connector unplugged. Some people have not had any issues, while others have. If you end up with a check engine light, or the truck runs poorly, you will have to get the 03-04 elbow. If the truck runs fine, you may be able to use the 05-07 elbow, but I cannot guarantee that there won't be issues down the road.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,459
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From: Wyoming
My Cali truck threw a check engine light from removing the throttle body, But so does disconnecting my egr...
So I live with the light on, Im used to it now. For me the truck is running good with the light on, if it goes out Ill be worried, lol. Its funny looking at the top of my motor, theres un-connected plugs danglin all over. There was two going into my throttle body, not sure if there all like that. My truck breathes much better with that TB mess gone though.
So I live with the light on, Im used to it now. For me the truck is running good with the light on, if it goes out Ill be worried, lol. Its funny looking at the top of my motor, theres un-connected plugs danglin all over. There was two going into my throttle body, not sure if there all like that. My truck breathes much better with that TB mess gone though.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 3
From: Peoria, IL
Crap, so now I've got conflicting torque values, 10ft/lb and 23 ft/lbs. Anyone with a shop manual want to clear that up for us.
Nothing against you Storm, I just want to be 100% sure as that is a big difference and I don't want to be stripping anything out.
Nothing against you Storm, I just want to be 100% sure as that is a big difference and I don't want to be stripping anything out.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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I went 18ft/lb. Not sure where I saw it, but I did see it somewhere...and it "felt right" to me when the torque wrench clicked.
And, it seems to be a good compromise between 10 and 23. Keep in mind, this isn't a head gasket with fuilds and 12 bolts involved. It's just a simple 4-bolt unit with a very simple (and effective) ring gasket.
And, it seems to be a good compromise between 10 and 23. Keep in mind, this isn't a head gasket with fuilds and 12 bolts involved. It's just a simple 4-bolt unit with a very simple (and effective) ring gasket.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,798
Likes: 2
From: SoCal, SD CO. East
Be one with the bolts
Beerstalker
I take mine on and off as required by trips to the dealer. I never once considered using a torque spec. With a 1/4" drive and the cross-tightening method, I use my hand as the guide. I had concerns the first time too but I never had a leak (and I flash tested for one) nor did I ever find a loose fastener upon removal. In this situation, less is more! You can recheck them after a full heating/cooling cycle of the engine.
I take mine on and off as required by trips to the dealer. I never once considered using a torque spec. With a 1/4" drive and the cross-tightening method, I use my hand as the guide. I had concerns the first time too but I never had a leak (and I flash tested for one) nor did I ever find a loose fastener upon removal. In this situation, less is more! You can recheck them after a full heating/cooling cycle of the engine.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
a item like this that requires so little torque to tighten down i would do by hand....I only use torque wrenches on HG'S and all internal components. And i wouldnt rent one either due to the fact of people's carelesness. once they are dropped they need to be re-calibrated.
Last edited by WishIhada7.3; Jun 14, 2007 at 03:19 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,798
Likes: 2
From: SoCal, SD CO. East
Originally Posted by Beerstalker
Look under your hood for the elbow. Underneath it you should see the throttle body between it and the intake manifold. On the throttle body there should be an electrical connector, pull the connector out and see if there are any pins inside the port on the throttle body. If there are no pins, then your throttle body can easily be removed without setting off a check engine light. Order the 05-07 elbow and enjoy.
If you do have pins inside the port, you can try driving with the connector unplugged. Some people have not had any issues, while others have. If you end up with a check engine light, or the truck runs poorly, you will have to get the 03-04 elbow. If the truck runs fine, you may be able to use the 05-07 elbow, but I cannot guarantee that there won't be issues down the road.
For those of you with 03-04 trucks I would definitely suggest keeping your throttle body and elbow in case you ever need to go back to stock for warranty work etc (probably not a bad idea for everybody).
If you do have pins inside the port, you can try driving with the connector unplugged. Some people have not had any issues, while others have. If you end up with a check engine light, or the truck runs poorly, you will have to get the 03-04 elbow. If the truck runs fine, you may be able to use the 05-07 elbow, but I cannot guarantee that there won't be issues down the road.
For those of you with 03-04 trucks I would definitely suggest keeping your throttle body and elbow in case you ever need to go back to stock for warranty work etc (probably not a bad idea for everybody).
Reads ***** rules!
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,105
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From: So.Ca./ N.E. UT
Originally Posted by Beerstalker
Crap, so now I've got conflicting torque values, 10ft/lb and 23 ft/lbs. Anyone with a shop manual want to clear that up for us.
Nothing against you Storm, I just want to be 100% sure as that is a big difference and I don't want to be stripping anything out.
Nothing against you Storm, I just want to be 100% sure as that is a big difference and I don't want to be stripping anything out.
Maybe a little late, found this info. after alot of reading to decide which elbow to get...................the following is taken from accufab's website.....................
Accufab Performance Elbow Installation Instructions IMPORTANT NOTE: These instructions, courtesy of truckblog.com, are very complete, HOWEVER, the torque specs called out for to bolt the Accufab 6.0 Elbow to the intake base are incorrect. The bolts should be tightened to no more than 10 to 12 ft. lbs., not the 23 ft. lbs. listed in the instructions.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,294
Likes: 1
From: Neptune Beach, FL
Not sure why, but 23ft is whats listed for factory elbows.. However as Accufab pointed out its 10-12ft.. I went with Accufab's new torque specs.. Went out and re-torqued mine few weeks ago...
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,154
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So let me see if I've got this straight... The guys seeing a big improvement are using the '05 elbow on '03/04 trucks and eliminating the throttle body. I have the '03 Accufab elbow, and didn't see any throttle plate on my truck when I installed it. I just went out and looked at it, I have two plugs on the throttle body. One is under the elbow and the other is off the side. I'll have to unplug them and see if there's any mating pins inside them tomorrow.
For the guys running the '05 elbows in '03/04 trucks, does it make that much of a difference? I didn't see a whole lot of change when I put mine in, but then again I did it mostly because it had the port for the boost gage already there and any mileage gain would just be an added plus...
For the guys running the '05 elbows in '03/04 trucks, does it make that much of a difference? I didn't see a whole lot of change when I put mine in, but then again I did it mostly because it had the port for the boost gage already there and any mileage gain would just be an added plus...