352 Head, Valve questions
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Kempton, PA!
352 Head, Valve questions
Hello
I have a 352 out of my 1965 F-350, and am trying to decide if its worth rebuilding. I know that I will need to replace some valves, and probably valve seals, ect. I dont know heads too well, and alot of people say they just send their heads to a shop and have them gone over because they are hard to fix correctly without extensive knowledge and expensive machines. So here is the question: when replacing a valve, can you just buy a new one and stick it right in and be done with it, or does it need any machining or adjusting, ect? People say its around 400$ to have heads redone at shops, and if i'm gonna spend that much on an old motor I'm gonna buy a different one that works right off the bat. If it can be fixed for cheap, I'll at least give it a shot. Any help or advice is appreciated
Thanks
Garrett
I have a 352 out of my 1965 F-350, and am trying to decide if its worth rebuilding. I know that I will need to replace some valves, and probably valve seals, ect. I dont know heads too well, and alot of people say they just send their heads to a shop and have them gone over because they are hard to fix correctly without extensive knowledge and expensive machines. So here is the question: when replacing a valve, can you just buy a new one and stick it right in and be done with it, or does it need any machining or adjusting, ect? People say its around 400$ to have heads redone at shops, and if i'm gonna spend that much on an old motor I'm gonna buy a different one that works right off the bat. If it can be fixed for cheap, I'll at least give it a shot. Any help or advice is appreciated
Thanks
Garrett
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
Compare the $400 spent on having the heads done right the first time to swapping another questionable engine. I see the $400 as an investment in spending more time down the road doing things you want to WITH your truck vise TO it. I am gasket rebuilding a friends 390 and it still costs $700 to upgrade/replace worn parts found during the freshening process.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Citrus Heights, CA
You can probably buy a rebuilt long block 390, from a reputable source, for less than paying a machine shop to rebuild your 352. But where is the fun in that?
The question is how much rebuilding is required on your engine. Is this the first rebuild? How many miles? Has it been well maintained? If it has never been rebuilt, it will at least need hardened valve seats to deal with unleaded gas. How is the compression? Do a compression test "dry", then add teaspoonful of oil to each cylinder and do another compression test. If the compression jumps, you may need to re-ring (at least)
The question is how much rebuilding is required on your engine. Is this the first rebuild? How many miles? Has it been well maintained? If it has never been rebuilt, it will at least need hardened valve seats to deal with unleaded gas. How is the compression? Do a compression test "dry", then add teaspoonful of oil to each cylinder and do another compression test. If the compression jumps, you may need to re-ring (at least)
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Kempton, PA!
All right, I !finally! started working on my heads and pulled 2 valves last night. I also decided to rebuild the motor, as most of it seems in pretty decent shape. But, I do have questions about the valves and heads. First, what is the best way to clean the heads all around, especially the ports and the areas above the valves? I am assuming that other than the valve seat itself, you can scrub them clean with a cleaner, but I'm not sure. Also, what do you look for to see if a valve is good or bad, and is there a good way to clean up the valves too.
Most importantly is the valve seat questions. At least by my looking, the valve seats are not removable, and in the chilton I have it says the only motors covered in the book that have removable valve seats are the diesel motors. So how do you put hardened valve seats in? This has me rather lost. Thanks for the help
Garrett
Most importantly is the valve seat questions. At least by my looking, the valve seats are not removable, and in the chilton I have it says the only motors covered in the book that have removable valve seats are the diesel motors. So how do you put hardened valve seats in? This has me rather lost. Thanks for the help
Garrett
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Mddl A MexCans
If your going to bother rebuiling might as well do it right. Take everything to a machine shop for cleaning(hot tanking).. if you wanna do it at home oven cleaner works ok but you wont get the same results IMO lots of work with your riflr brush etc..
You could lap the valves and see if they leak soapy water by blowing in the port with compressed air but.. again.. just do it right,,, no worries later. Funds made me skip a quality valve job and I'm freeking hating the thought of just having to pull the heads and deal with it when $$ is in hand!!
You could lap the valves and see if they leak soapy water by blowing in the port with compressed air but.. again.. just do it right,,, no worries later. Funds made me skip a quality valve job and I'm freeking hating the thought of just having to pull the heads and deal with it when $$ is in hand!!
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Citrus Heights, CA
If you are not going to buy a long block from a reputable builder, plan on taking your engine to a machine shop. These are the folks that can install hardened valve seats and such. They are the guys that can bore the cylinders true. They are the folks that have the equipment to hot tank your parts. Heck, they probably have Ford blue to paint all the parts when they are done.
It doesn't sound like you have the equipment to do this job. Unless your engine has been rebuilt recently, you are not going to get away with a quick cylinder hone and ring job. Read up on this forum and specify what you want them to do. Three angle valve grind, cam, compression ratios, pistons, crank, fuel type, etc... It's all here in this forum. A good machine shop will be able to meet your specifications.
It will cost you more than buying a long block, but you will know exactly what you have when they are done.
It doesn't sound like you have the equipment to do this job. Unless your engine has been rebuilt recently, you are not going to get away with a quick cylinder hone and ring job. Read up on this forum and specify what you want them to do. Three angle valve grind, cam, compression ratios, pistons, crank, fuel type, etc... It's all here in this forum. A good machine shop will be able to meet your specifications.
It will cost you more than buying a long block, but you will know exactly what you have when they are done.
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