Do I Really Need Welting ??
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Southern Maryland
Do I Really Need Welting ??
Ok, opinion time again. remember my 56 is not a show truck. I want to bolt the rear fenders directly to the bed sides without welting. Will this become a rust garden? Cant I just put a little seam sealer in there? Or maybe just bare?
I searched old posts and couldnt find this topic..........
Any and all input appreciated.
I searched old posts and couldnt find this topic..........
Any and all input appreciated.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by houghda
Ok, opinion time again. remember my 56 is not a show truck. I want to bolt the rear fenders directly to the bed sides without welting. Will this become a rust garden? Cant I just put a little seam sealer in there? Or maybe just bare?
I searched old posts and couldnt find this topic..........
Any and all input appreciated.
I searched old posts and couldnt find this topic..........
Any and all input appreciated.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,876
Likes: 3,122
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
If you don't want to use the welting I would think you could get away with using a good quality sealer. They didn't have the sealers we have today back then or else I bet they would have used them, it would have been a lot cheaper to squirt a bead of seam sealer in than have a piece of welting cut and layed in. I wouldn't just bolt metal on metal, I'm sure you'll get a lot of rubbing leading to squeaks and eventually scraped metal and rust. You could also use a good foam ribbon type sealer, this type might keep it's form better than a sealer from a tube.
One thing to keep in mind, especially if you're going to apply the sealer and then paint the truck, buy a sealer that is paintable. If you use a silicone based sealer read the label, most are not paintable and you'll end up with mess. It will cause fish eyes in the paint around the area you applied the sealer and anywhere you touched the truck with contaminated finger. You'd be amazed how easy silicone will get around.
One thing to keep in mind, especially if you're going to apply the sealer and then paint the truck, buy a sealer that is paintable. If you use a silicone based sealer read the label, most are not paintable and you'll end up with mess. It will cause fish eyes in the paint around the area you applied the sealer and anywhere you touched the truck with contaminated finger. You'd be amazed how easy silicone will get around.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,290
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From: NM
If the welting was that woven "army belt" type of stuff, it is great at absorbing water after a couple years in the sun, and making good metal into rust. Maybe someone is making it in a modern rubber now? I'd vote for using welting and then sealing the seam with a paintable sealer to keep water and dirt out.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Painting your truck with 2 stage clearcoat paint? Then stay FAR away from silicone. Don't spray it near the paint, use no silicone based products on the paint. Silicone will strip the clearcoat right off!!!
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Southern Maryland
That wouldnt be good!
You are saying that even if my truck is already painted that silicone will damage the clearcoat?!
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
I've seen people using very thin neoprene rubber and putting that in between the bed and fender. When you look at it, it appears there is no welting, but you still have waterproofing and resistence from scratching. I believe places like Home Depot sell rolls of the rubber. I've even talked to guy who cut bicycle inner tube rubber and put that in, then trimmed with the excess rubber with an exact knife. (Need to be careful you don't trim into the paint job.)
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by houghda
You are saying that even if my truck is already painted that silicone will damage the clearcoat?!
stay away from any silicone based products!
Do not spray silicone near clearcoat / do not use a silicone based wax on clearcoat.
Otherwise....
Welting = neoprene welting is available. I bought several yards of it from an ad in Hemmings several years ago (from Bill Hirsch?) for my 1934 Packard.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jun 10, 2007 at 03:54 PM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 25,364
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From: Central PA
The '56 (from my knowledge: '53-'56) did not have welting between the rear fenders and the bed sides. There was welting between the front fenders and the cowl, however.
In keeping my truck as close to stock as possible, I chose not to put the welting at the rear fenders in 1998. There is no rust there. I do not notice any squeeks. In the 44 years from production to my trucks rebuild, there was not a lot of rust in that area. There was a lot of rust in other areas but not between the fender and the bedside.
Its up to you.
In keeping my truck as close to stock as possible, I chose not to put the welting at the rear fenders in 1998. There is no rust there. I do not notice any squeeks. In the 44 years from production to my trucks rebuild, there was not a lot of rust in that area. There was a lot of rust in other areas but not between the fender and the bedside.
Its up to you.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
I just went through several pictures of trucks and either they painted the welting or most of them I saw are running without it. Here's an article I found which might help you guys.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/welting.php
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...spagenameZWD1V
http://www.classictruckshop.com/welting.php
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...spagenameZWD1V
Last edited by imlowr2; Jun 10, 2007 at 06:27 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,527
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From: Grande Prairie, Alberta
If you do not want to use welting, another option would be to weld the fenders to the bed side and smooth the seam. This is what was done to my truck by the PO but I don't know if there are any down sides other than having to grind them off to replace or replace the entire side and fender at once.
