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Hi Guys,
Looking for reasons why my horn does not work? When you push it all you hear is the relay under the hood clicking. Any thoughts here? It is a 1974 F-250 Camper Special, Automatic column.
I'd have to start with taking a wire from the battery and putting it on the post for the horn. If it work's you'll know it isn't the horn. If it dosen't, then it's horn time. If it works, try a 12volt test light, have somebody press the button on the steeringwheel and check for power, and you're ground for the horn. Bob
There is a slight possiblity that it could be in the steering wheel as well. There's a white circular piece of plastic behind the steering wheel with a metal stub that is suposed to go into a ground, and it may have come out.
This is what was wrong with my 79, and I checked out everything else these guys mentioned.
Original Ford horns from 1958 (B8AZ-13832-B High / B8AZ-13833-B Lo) thru the 70's could be adjusted. Sometimes the screw gets turned all the way in, and then the horn barely makes a squeek.
A bad relay (D6TZ-13853-A .. Motorcraft HB-112) will cause the horn not to blow. Water can get into the relays, which are (usually) mounted on the fender inner aprons.
The horn switch itself (13A805) is part of the steering wheel pad...there are 6 different types, depending on the year, model, and w/ w/o cruise control.
NOTE: When junkyarding, the 1975/82 Econolines use the same horn pads as the 1973/79 F100/350's use...including the ones for cruise control which are very hard to find
CRUISE CONTROL HORN PADS: D5TZ-13A805-B = 1975/77 Econoline - same as 75/77 F Series; D8TZ-13A805-B = 1978/82 same as 78/79 F Series.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jun 3, 2007 at 12:47 PM.
And don't overlook the jumper Cugo8 mentioned. I ran myself crazy for a day trying to logicaly figure out why the horn was testing good everywhere but not working. My brain was very tired when I finally figured out it was the connection past the rag joint!
O.K. I've determined the horns ard grounded and when applying 12 V to the wire at the relay crossing the core support they work. I also wire brushed the mounting for the relay, which is still just clicking. I have no rag joint, its 4X4 with a u-joint. I see no possible way of grounding the steering column shaft. I added some pic's of my set up in my gallery, or in the process. for some reason there not in order, pic' # are 11,12,15,17
Last edited by armstrongfordtrucks; Jun 3, 2007 at 02:50 PM.
Million
From what I see there are 3 connections Single one is Blue wire with yellow stripe, and is small, the other 2 are larger, one yellow, has 12 volts all the time, The other is yellow with a green stripe which goes to the horns. Put power to it and horns blow.
There is no power on the light gage blue/yellow wire which I believe is from the cab,when you press the horn button.
If I put 12 volts to the relay where the cab wire would hook I then have 12 volts only where the yellow wire plugs on which is the wire I have determined to be my power source, the other connection still has 0 volts, which is the yellow/green going to the horns.
dose this make any sense?
I agree with Dennis - just because the relay clicks does not mean that there is output voltage. The relay has probably developed an open in the output coil.