Speaking of pet peeves, one of mine is people who continually refer to the thing where the key goes as the "ignition" or the "ignition switch". It is neither. You put the key into the LOCK CYLINDER. I would think you aspiring locksmiths would know that.

 

its all one piece smart a$$.. and its only purpose is to turn the car/motor on... so what else would you call it. You wouldnt call a parts store and ask for a lock cylinder, they'll ask which one and you'll say IGNITION, no do you want help or not...

 

Uh No, Smart a**, it's not all one piece. The ignition lock cylinder mounts into the steering column upper housing and the ignition switch is mounted about 8" farther down the column. If you ask for an ignition switch, you get this:http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IgnitionSwitch/Ford/FSeriesPickup/1AZIS00001/504172

If you ask for an ignition lock cylinder, you get this:
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IgnitionKeyLockCylinder/Ford/FSeriesPickup/1AIMX00121/394718

 

but if you need a KEY for your IGNITION what do you think that implys... touchee

when you reffer to the ignition, you reffer to it as a whole... soo shut up ok?

if you need a key, and can take the ignition OUT.. take it to a locksmith, if you cant find one, you can ship it to me and i will gladdly make a key for it

 

Now now ladies, lets not get our panties in a bunch. We're all friends around here, cool it.

 

<but if="" need="" a="" key="" for="" your="" ignition="" what="" do="" you="" think="" that="" implys="">

It implies that you need an ignition key, to fit the ignition lock cylinder.
<... touchee>
Hardly

<when the="" ignition,="" you="" reffer="" to="" it="" as="" a="" whole="">
I refer to it as the ignition "system". So what do you ask for if you need an ignition module or ignition wires? The "whole" would get pretty expensive.

<... soo shut up ok?>
Sorry, not by any order from you.

<if you="" need="" a="" key,="" and="" can="" take="" the="" ignition="" out..=""> </if></when></but><if you need a key, and can take the ignition OUT..>
<but if="" need="" a="" key="" for="" your="" ignition="" what="" do="" you="" think="" that="" implys=""><when the="" ignition,="" you="" reffer="" to="" it="" as="" a="" whole=""><if you="" need="" a="" key,="" and="" can="" take="" the="" ignition="" out..=""> That's a couple hours work. Which part do you mean?

<take locksmith,="" if="" cant="" find="" one,="" you="" can="" ship="" to="" me="" and="" i="" will="" gladdly="" make="" a="" key="" for="" it=""></take></if></when></but><take it to a locksmith, if you cant find one, you can ship it to me and i will gladdly make a key for it>
<but if="" need="" a="" key="" for="" your="" ignition="" what="" do="" you="" think="" that="" implys=""><when the="" ignition,="" you="" reffer="" to="" it="" as="" a="" whole=""><if you="" need="" a="" key,="" and="" can="" take="" the="" ignition="" out..=""><take locksmith,="" if="" cant="" find="" one,="" you="" can="" ship="" to="" me="" and="" i="" will="" gladdly="" make="" a="" key="" for="" it=""> No thanks. I rekey and repair all of my own lock cylinders. I appreciate the offer, though. I'd gladly make a key for someone else.</take></if></when></but>

 

lets not get our panties in a bunch.

 

I don't see my original response, so I'll try it again.
There is a tool called a "Bypass Key" for removing Ford ignition lock cylinders without the key. It's in the same category as lock picks and lockout tools, professionals only. It works like a locking lugnut removal tool. You break off the "wings", tap the tool onto the cylinder and turn it with a wrench to the ON position. It destroys the cylinder but doesn't damage the housing like drilling. There are hardened steel parts in the cylinder that (designed to?) will deflect a drill bit and send it into the housing.

That said, you can do the same thing with a big screw driver, one with wrench flats near the handle. Break off the wings, tap the driver tip firmly into the slot and turn the driver with a wrench while pushing firmly inward (to prevent the driver from "camming" out). You can then push the release pin and pull out the old cylinder. You may want to practice at the local junk yard first.
The rockers and slide bar in the cylinder will shear very easily. That's why the "wing" is not rigidly attached.

 

For what it's worth, on a Jeep Cherokee (89), you can take the VIN number to a dealership and they can order a key. It's expensive, but one solution. Probably depends heavily on the year...Have you tried contacting a previous owner of the truck, if you're not the only one? Just an idea...

 

My old 89 f-150 would work with just about any ford truck key that you stuck in there with a similar profile.

Being the cobbler that I am. I drilled out the cylinder till all the tumblers fell out. Then pushed in the pin removed the old assembly and then inserted the new cylinder like the haynes manual says.

That is after I tried the screw driver and plier trick and boogered it all up.

 

Dude, how old are you? You've challenged just about everybody on this thread with a bunch of namecalling. I don't care if your Dad is a locksmith, you aren't, plainly displayed by this remark:

NO, it isn't, and if you knew half as much as you say about locksmithing or Ford trucks, you would know that. I don't think you were paying much attention when your Dad was showing you what he does for a living.

If I have what you call the "ignition" out, why would I send it to you, or anyone, for a key? I can get a whole new "ignition", as you call it, at any part store complete with 2 new keys, and I am done.

Why don't you go away and let the *adults* try to help this fella who is having trouble with his LOCK CYLINDER.

 

Hey now, I ...Kinda...like....my...
Well, never mind.

Yeah, mighty ford. The screwdriver trick is one of those "Ya gotta hold your tongue just right" deals. I used to have a Bypass Key, but somebody wanted it more than me. I can do them using a screwdriver now, no problem. There's a bit of a "feel" for it.
The previous owner of my Mark VII left the keys at a distant place once. He didn't want to damage the $20 lock cylinder, so he peeled away the $130 housing. I found out when the electrical tape holding the cylinder in let go, and I was left holding it.

 

Hey isx101,

I used a hammer to beat the screw driver in. then spun it around. Tried to hot wire it by by passing the switch. Turned the steering wheel with all my might until I broke the steering lock. Then nutted the wires back together. Because I could'nt get it to start. The car thieves make it look easy.

Oh then I bought a new cylinder and broke out the haynes manual.
I guess you could have called me a smart I mean a dumb a**.

I like doing things the hard way.

 

Last week, I picked up the column section that houses the ignition tumbler, turning signals, and hazard light switch for my 1986 E 350 which had it's column stripped by bandits. The section just below the steering wheel. It had an ignition lock tumbler, but no key.

I had read in some of the threads here about drilling out the pin, and thought that would be all there was to it, so I stopped at Autozone on the way home, and picked up a new key/tumbler for $9.95.

Upon looking closer at the old damaged housing, I realized that besides drilling out the pin, the tumbler still has to be turned to the on position for the assembly to pull out of the actuator rod area.

After breaking off the wings, I tried drilling at the spot right where the pins would go from the main body of the tumbler assembly to the center part that turns. Sure enough the zink casting is laced with pieces of stainless.

For some reason though, there were two brass spring loaded pins that were held in by the wings piece. These holes were located near the edge of the tumbler assembly on each side right where the assembly has it's runners that fit into the housing to prevent it from turning. I was able to chase these holes down with a bigger drill, just under 1/4 in. I can't remember which size exactly. I chased them all the way down through the tumbler assembly to the housing. One of these holes of course drilled out the locking pin also. I was then able to without much trouble, turn the centerpart with a screwdriver and force the assembly into the on position, and I pulled the whole thing out.

It took me about an hour. Next time it will be 5 minutes.

 

Those spring loaded pins are detent pins, they give you the "click" feel when moving the cylinder from one position to another as they index into the "wing" body.
After drilling through that part of the cylinder, you zapped the rockers and "maybe" the slide bar seat. This made it easier to force the cylinder to turn.
The release "pin" is hardened and either deflected in it's bore or deflected the bit. I would bet money that you didn't actually drill through it. If you still had to turn the cylinder to ON, you certainly didn't . That is one hard SOB surrounded by soft aluminum.
Regardless, this sounds like a "drilling out an ignition lock" sucess story. It's one to keep in mind for future reference.