96 3.0 PS Problems
.Its making alot of noise when I turn the wheel and I don't mean the Reorrrrr that I've come to accept. Its a very loud whining noise and is directly affected by the steering wheel. When I opened the PS Resivoir which is filled with ATF by the way. There are bubbles in it. What does that mean an air leak?
I have a feeling the pump is telling me its time to go I would have just went with that until I saw the bubbles in the resivior.
Other then the noise everything is normal the wheel turns smoothly without loss of the power steering throughout the travel of the wheel. However I have a feeling if I ignore it. It won't stay that way.
Whats that burning smells like meat on pavement oh wait thats my feet. The weather is perfect for work too
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Last edited by krankshaft; Jun 1, 2007 at 02:45 PM.
the anti foam, usually boron additive, wears out at 20k>30k miles or less if city hot climate driving
may have air leak in return line, the neoprene ages and cracks
air foam causes pump metal to metal contact=howling
check belt for glazing and slippage
try a complete flush and change out the return line, abt 2 qts until like new titty pink....Valvoline Maxlife is a good one, has lots of antifoam and seal sweller for old tired baked seals
MerconV 5 or Mobil 1 ATF if you live in a cold climate, thinner than regular Mercon
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Jun 1, 2007 at 08:51 PM.
I'll replace that hose and change the fluid and turn the wheel while its up on the stands without hitting the locks to purge the air afterward.
If that doesn't work it says in the Ford manual that if purging the air doesn't work. It means the PS pumps rotor cam's contour is damaged.
Thanks
So the rushing fluid returning to the reserve tank was drawing a vacuum through the leaky hose which allowed air to get into the fluid. This aerated fluid then went into the pump where the pump further pulverized the air bubbles creating the noise.
Just fyi do you really need to remove the fan clutch and shroud to remove the PS pump like the manual says. Or is the pulley puller slim enough and will fit without removing the clutch?
Last edited by krankshaft; Jun 2, 2007 at 09:04 AM.
The pullers I've seen for PS pump pulleys are these really tall affairs that require the pump to be on the bench where there is a lot of space in front of it. But then, on my 4liter engine, I was able to remove the pump without removing the fan clutch or shroud. I just had to remove the fan belt.
Anyhow I removed the return line and the neoprene o-ring that seals the compression fitting to the rack was gone
. I guess it wore away or something because it wasn't inside the rack threads in addition that line had oil accumulation on it so for $15 bucks at Napa I just bought a replacement.Hopefully the pump didn't suffer any serious damage from the air in the fluid. Or I'm gonna be removing the fan clutch
.Oh and fyi I found the PS pulley puller and installer at Delta Freight for $20 bucks I'm going to pick one up just to have it on hand. For 20 bucks its really not worth renting. You can never have too many tools
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Last edited by krankshaft; Jun 3, 2007 at 07:27 AM.
That is all. So, replace ATF and wait till PS pump die. A year later U will replace it with new ore used.... No reason to rebuild. The surface inside is probably scratched.
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