I have a 93 Ranger XLT, 4.0L, 5 speed. I can't figure out what is wrong with it. I just bought it from my dad and he can't figure it out either. It will start up and run fine, but once you shut it off it won't start for an hour or so. However you can push start it every time. My dad put a new coil pack on but that didn't help. He also put a new altinator, idle contol censor, and a crank sensor. None of this has seem to help. I think he also tied changing the computer. If anyone has any suggestions on what it could be I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

 

starter relay

 

Welcome to FTE.

Are you saying the starter motor won't run to crank the engine, after things are warmed up?????

 

We tried the started relay. It will turn over when you turn the key it just won't fire to start it.

 

OK, so the engine is hot & is being cranked by the starter, but doesn't start,
BUT if you PUSH it off when hot, it'll start, right???

SO, does the starter motor sound like it's spinning the engine at normal speed when hot, or does it sound like it's laboring?????

If it's laboring, I'd look for a voltage drop from the battery. Maybe have the battery load tested when hot, at your favorite autoparts store.

In fact while they're doing that, they could perform an electrical system check up on the vehicle, with everything in place, with their portable electrical system tester.

If the battery is heat sensitive, it's output voltage could drop enough when hot & trying to crank the engine, that engine rpm cranking speed, spark & or fuel delivery could be adversy affected.

Seeing as how it'll start after sitting for an hour to cool off, suggests to me it's an electrical source problem of some kind.

I suppose you could check the batteries output voltage when it's hot & cranking & the truck won't start. If it's below about 10 volts, it's suspect.

Another test you could try, is using jumper cables from another battery when it's hot & won't start. If it'll start with the jumper boost, suspect the battery is heat sensitive.

Just some things to ponder or try. Keep us posted on what you find.

 

if it is motoring over but not starting check your fuel pump relay. There seems to be a problem with this item and it is just as you say. Will motor over but not start. They are inexpensive less than $10. I keep a spare in mine as it gets hot and just wont start, so I change the relay and it will. In lieu of buying one pull it when its doing the no start and cool it off by vlowing on it or just getting it out of the holder for a couple of minutes, reinstall then see what happens.

How I found this was I would stop and then there was no start, spark was there fuel pressure would not increase while motoring the starter, but was in spec when it was running. Its easy to check or change as your option. But again this is only if it motors over as usual.

 

PawPaw, Yes that is what it is doing. I believe my dad has checked the battery. We could not get it tested at Auto Zone because the said they can't test vehicles older that a 95. Not sure why. But I will run this by him and see what he thinks.

Hank, I've been told that it could be the fuel pump relay. My dad said that he has not tried that. So we will try that also and I will let ya'll know what I find out.

Thanks,
Hollie

 

Remember you'll want to do the battery testing, or the remainder of any electrical system testing, with the engine hot, when the engine is in the "no start" mode.

If you do the testing after things cool down & it starts normally, the condition doesn't exist & you'll not likely find the root cause of your problem!!!!!

AutoZone is probably saying that they don't have a computer scan tool, that would scan the omputer for trouble codes, that'll work on this mode/year.

I was suggesting taking the truck by for a "electrical system" check-up, with their portable electrical system tester. This tester can properly load & check the vehicles electrical system, things like the battery, alternator, battery cables, ect.

SO, if you don't have a multimeter, battery cables, or another battery, or vehicle, to do the home checks suggeted, just run it by your favorite autoparts store & while it's hot & the engine won't restart & have them do the electrical system load test & elctrical system check-up.

On the good idea that Hank posted about the fuel pump power relay, try swapping the fuel pump relay, with a like relay not needed to run the engine,

if you have A/C, use it's relay as a test unit. But do this when it's acting out & won't start & see if the engine will wake up!!!!!

If not, then swap out the ECM's power relay, with the A/C relay & see if it'll start.

If you don't want to do that, try "thumping" the fuel pump & ECM relays, one at a time, when it's in it's no start condition & see if it'll wake up!!!!

These relays are pesky & have caused no start problems. Good thing is they aren't expensive ($5-$10) depending on where you buy them, nor difficult to replace.

They are located in the under hood power distribution box & their location is noted on the distribution box cover.

Keep us posted on what you find.

 

Ok another update from my dad. He said he hooked up a computer scanner to in and the scanner wouldn't even turn on. So he went and got another brain box from a junk yard. This didn't fix the problem but he hasn't tried the scanner on it since. Also he said he's done about everything he can think of. Said the only things he hasn't changed is the cam sensor, fuel filter, or checked th fuel pump. We are taking it today to have someone put another scanner on it. I will keep you posted on what we find out.

 

Seeng as how this is a OBD-1 vehicle, the scan tool will have to be supplied with vehicle 12 volt power to operate.

So he'll have to remember to connect to the battery directly, or through a power point like a cigratte lighter or 12 volt power outlet, in order to power the scan-tool. If he was using one of the in cabin 12 volt power points, be sure it's fuse isn't blown!!!!! Don't ask me how I know this!!!! lol

OBD-2 vehicles have the 12 volt power supplied through the in cabin diagnostic connector, OBD-1 vehicles like your 93 & my 94 Taurus don't!!!!

 

Ok just got the feed back on it. All the scanner showed was the crank sensor and the CO2 sensor. So he took the crank sensor off and it is covered in oil. Not good right. So the guy we took it to said that the crank shaft is moving around and throwin oil. Which is leakin through a number or bad seals. When he cleaned everthing up it fired fight up. But he said that it's gonna keep doin this and that the truck is junk.

So is it really that bad or can this be fixed? My dad said he's gonna call around and check some things. He said it can be fixed that most people just don't wanna take the time to deal with it. We also maybe look to find a new motor and switch them out if that is what the problem is.

So do you have any other suggestions?

 

Good find on the cam sensor, looks like my suspicions were WAY out in left field!!!!! lol

Well if the oil leak is a rubber seal problem, you might find that a "high mileage" formulation motor oil, might help. Many brands now offer high mileage formulas.

This kind of oil is marketed to folks with engines with high mileage that have oil leaks. The oil has seal softners & swell agents in it, that cause old, hardened seals to soften & swell a little & sometimes if the seal isn't too far gone, it's enough to stop some minor oil leaks.

So, maybe your engine & condition, would be a canidate for this formulation. It'll do it's thing slowly & safely, so don't expect results overnight, it may take a few weeks to get whatever results it's going to yield.

If the cam seal problem is bad enough, it may not work at all & in that case, in the long run, replacement is probably the only reliable fix.

BTW, how many miles on this engine????

Let us know how it goes.

 

The engine has 190,000 on it. I was hoping it wouldn't turn out to be this bad. Oh well hopefully something will work or I'll find a good engine for a decent price.

 

Well at 190k it's earned the right to "weep" a little, RIGHT!!!!

If your of a mind to, try a high mileage formula motor oil, it might help some with the oil leaks.

 

Yeah it has. I've just only had it for about a week. My dad had it about 2 months. Figured it wouldn't be hard to fix. I'll try the high millage oil in it too. It wouldn't hurt either way.

But at least I can just take the crank sensor off and wipe it of and it will start up. So atleast I can still get around till I figure something else out.