Open knuckle? or closed knuckle?
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From: Emmett, ID
Open knuckle? or closed knuckle?
I just got a pair of 3/4 axles front and rear...i have been looking for a pair with solid front axle for a long time....the weird thing about it, the front axle is a closed knuckle, at least that's what i was told anyway....is this a good thing or a bad thing.....thanks for any input.
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From: Honkytonkville
I am pretty sure you'll get answers pointing both ways. Closed knuckle harder to service, but have that added protection, but have drum brakes only....yadda yadda yadda.....See what I mean? If you have one- you'll be just fine using it!
Post Fiend
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From: Across from the neighbors
Well with drums you can run 15 inch wheels without any problems so tires are cheaper that way. Some people say thats the only way to run 15 inch 8 lug wheels but they fit fine on my 60 front also. Who knows but i thought id give ya that lil side note.
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74-75.5 low pinion closed knuckle drum brakes,30 spline inner, 19 spline outer, small
u-joints, limited turning radius, prone to leaks at the ball when it becomes pitted, or damaged from off-road.
75.5 - 77 low pinion, open knuckle disc brake 30 spline inner, 19 spline outer, outer splindle pilot hole is smaller than the 78 front end, and is notched to allow a 1480 series u-joint. Makes it weak. Does have a slightly better turning radius, but not as good as a chebby, or dodge. Ford used shorter steering arms on the knuckles. The ford also used narrower rotors, about 1/4".
These were just two examples of front 60's that are the least desireable, and the reasons for the lack of desireability.
Closed knuckles in general are just weak units with coarse shafts, and drum brakes, and most leak all over the place.
Not trying to discredit your find, just don't think I would be spending a bunch of time, or money building one up with high expectations. For the money it would cost, one could buy the better unit with the good stuff already.
u-joints, limited turning radius, prone to leaks at the ball when it becomes pitted, or damaged from off-road.
75.5 - 77 low pinion, open knuckle disc brake 30 spline inner, 19 spline outer, outer splindle pilot hole is smaller than the 78 front end, and is notched to allow a 1480 series u-joint. Makes it weak. Does have a slightly better turning radius, but not as good as a chebby, or dodge. Ford used shorter steering arms on the knuckles. The ford also used narrower rotors, about 1/4".
These were just two examples of front 60's that are the least desireable, and the reasons for the lack of desireability.
Closed knuckles in general are just weak units with coarse shafts, and drum brakes, and most leak all over the place.
Not trying to discredit your find, just don't think I would be spending a bunch of time, or money building one up with high expectations. For the money it would cost, one could buy the better unit with the good stuff already.
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From: Virginia Beach
Yes, the "High-Boy" Dana 44 is low pinion. Low pinion makes for poor pinion angles later on when you lift it. Also, the "High-Boy" Dana 44 axles had external lock-outs (I think, those big hubs were considered external, right?) which have no aftermarket support and the only replacement if you break one is a stock used one. Well, last time I checked anyways 
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Post Fiend
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From: Across from the neighbors
You dont "have" to. You can buy the wedges and spring cups and use the F-150 type front suspension if you want. With coils you will have more suspension flex and a better ride. What do you plan on doing with the truck your using the rears on if i might ask.THis could be used to determine which setup would be best for you but it still comes down to each persons preferance.
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From: Emmett, ID
I would use if for wheelin and mudding just having some fun, she just sits for the majority of the time unfortunatly bec. of the prices of gas....i was just curious if i could just swap axle for axle and use the stock susp setup.
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The axle does not care what type of spring you use. Use a coil if you want, but you will have to do some fancy fab work to mount the radius arms, and lower coil mounts.
Gonna need some type of provision for a trac bar, and if you have not addressed any potential steering problems, now is the time to do it.
Gonna need some type of provision for a trac bar, and if you have not addressed any potential steering problems, now is the time to do it.
Post Fiend
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From: Across from the neighbors
So im guessing you have a F-150? If you are just muddin it and no highway use then you can do a coil system easy enough. Things wont have to be as accurate as if you were going to drive it for transprtation. You wont have to worry so much about alignment and tire wear if its just an offroad toy.
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The 3/4 ton front end steers from the driver side knuckle. The steering box for it sweeps from front to rear. May require a different tie rod to accept the drag link that attaches to it over on the passenger side, or, you will have to convert over to a true crossover steering.
You only mentioned 3/4 ton axles, is this a 60, or a 44 with eight lugs?
You only mentioned 3/4 ton axles, is this a 60, or a 44 with eight lugs?