Hey everyone I need some advice. I have a 88 F150 I6 300 4X4. My alternator is on its way out and I want to upgrade to a higher amperage alternator. I'm not sure what will fit. I work at Advance Auto Parts and I want to buy something off of the shelf. What will bolt on, I don't mind doing a few mods but nothing major I'm working two jobs. I have done a search and even went to FordFuelInjection but I'm not sure which alt I have an if the ones they are listed will fit a 300 I6 (thought maybe this was 302 only) I am putting on a whinch and running dual batteries so I need something bigger. The 3G looks good but what kind of vehicle do I look it up for. I am a machinist so mods to brakets, threads, etc. will not be a problem.

 

I think you want one that fits a 1992 5.0 E series Van.
The 1992 4.9 F series has deferent mounting design than the 1988.
The 1992 5.0 F series shows 2G Alternators.
The 1992 5.0 E series shows the right mounting design for the 1988 F series and 3G Alternators.

 

OK thanks that will work if I go with the 130amp I have to notch the bracket I believe because of the bigger case. On the the wiring can you buy just the wiring harness or is it easier to fabricate your own. I'm trying to find a battery tray that mounts on the driver side of the vehicle (mines on the right of course) the dual battery trucks are hard to come by. Does anyone know if the vans or any of the cars are this way. I could pull one out of a chevy I guess.

 

I have always made my own.

 

If your 88 300 is like my 90 300, you won't have to notch the bracket, and I used the original belt. There is another set of mounting holes in my bracket that fit the 3G fine. Only problem I had was that I had to disassemble and rotate the alternator case to get the output stud away from the engine. I used the wiring from the donor car at the local U-pull yard. Added an inline fuse and soldered big ring terminals from a stero shop.

 

I can't take credit for this list. Copied & saved it from the electrical forums weeks ago.


All of these Ford vehicles had the 130amp 3G . Other vehicles also have the same alternator. Some on this list have a different mounting, but the difference is readily apparent.

(1994-95) Ford Mustang 5.0L
(1994-00) Ford Mustang 3.8L
(1994-97) Ford Thunderbird, Mercury Cougar 3.8L
(1990-95) Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.8L
(1993-99) Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.0L
(1995-98) Ford Windstar 3.8L & 3.0L
(1991-94) Lincoln Continental 3.8L
(1992-97) Ford F Series Pickup
(1992-96) Ford E Series Van


Just remembered the other difference I questioned was the pulley size. My 3G has a smaller pulley and spins slower at the same RPM. Can't remeber exact numbers, but think it ended up about 20% slower. If I used the smaller pulley, I could use the original belt, but swapping pulleys would have meant I needed to find a belt that would fit. Finaly found a chart that showed output at various RPMs. Even with the smaller pulley, at idle the 3G can make almost as many amps as the 2G at high way speed. Stayed with the smaller pulley and the stock belt.
When you do this, would you please report back what alternator you ended up using?
I'll need one someday, and might not have time or energy to go U-PULL shopping.
Thanks Frank

 

The only one on that list that he can use on his 88 F150 is the 1992 E series. The other trucks are not even close.
Everything newer than 1992 has the new stile mounting set up.
Most everything older than 1992 has the 2G and you do not even want one of those fire makers.
Some older than 1992 do have the 1G and the Hi output 1G’s are on Diesels.
Some of those cars I do not know about, as I do not work with cars.

 

Ok got the alternator swap done. I'll give a run down here of what I did. First of all the 1992 van e150 4.9 130A alternator was the best for my truck. It bolted up in my bracket to a differant set of holes no problem. You have to use a 5/16 bolt on the upper alt ear unless you tap it out to 3/8-16 like I did. The plugs come out correct and AAP had a 1 year warrenty for $98.88. The wiring is no problem at all. The original alt had two plugs on it. Just remove the rectagular plug from the solenoid and cut the white wire that links both plugs (stator wire) as close to the rect. plug as possible. Get rid of that plug. On the other plug there is green wire, a yellow (Hot wire off solenoid) wire and the white wire of course. Cut the yellow wire off at about 6in from the plug and crimp a round terminal that will fit the charging stud on the back of the Alt onto it and hook it to stud. I had to get a stator plug out of a junkyard (came off of a Taurus) and splice onto my white wire. Plug it into the stator plug on the alt. Leave the green wire hooked up like normal. Plug the exsisting plug into the alt. I bought a 4 Gauge 32in battery cable with a ring terminal on both ends from AAP for about $5. Bolt this onto the charging stud and to the solenoid with the positive battery cable. I had removed my smog pump so I was running a 83 3/4 belt. Due to the pulley being bigger on new alt i had to go to a 85 in off of a 95 ford Ltd 5.0. All done, works wonderful, hooked it up to the machine at work under a load went all the way to up to 110 amps. Now I'm installing dual batteries on it. What size (amperage) Isolator do I need to get. What does that mean on a Battery Isolator (70 Amp) will it blow if more than that is exceeded.

 

The wiring you replaced with the 32 inch battery cable, had a fusible link in it. Usually when doing this upgrade, one runs the battery cable to a mega fuse and then to the solinoid. Think I used a 120 amp fuse. The swap will work fine with out a fuse right up to the point something goes bad on the alternator, or something grounded makes good contact with the charging stud. Then you have the possibility of serious damage to the wiring, and or a fire in the engine compartment. Mabe you put the fuse in and forgot to menton it in your write up?
Good Luck Frank

 

Yea I'm going to install it but we were out of them at the store when I did the retrofit. We had some more came in on the truck yesterday so I'm going to pick one up tonight on my shift. Ours are 175 amp which is what Ford Fuel Injection recommends.

 

Yes you are correct, it is a 175amp in mine also. Been a while since I did the upgrade.

 

Hello,
I am trying to do a swap like this. I have a '92 f150 and it has a 2g alternator. I bought an alt from ford fuel injection but it seems I got the wrong one. The new atl is a 160 amp w/ the 7" pivot. I should have gotten the 8.25" pivot but they don't seem to offer one on their web site. My question is if I get an old alt can I just change the case or would that be too much of a pain? If plauseable wht vehicle would have the case I need so I can source one from a local wrecking yard?
Thanks,
Justin

 

Need some info. Which side of the engine is it mounted on driver or passenger. do you have the one with the ear at 6 and 2 O'clock or is it inline at 12 and 6

 

Mine's mounted on the pass. side and the original is the 6 and 2 O'clock alt.