Charging Problems
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New User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Vancouver, B.C.
Charging Problems
I've recently come across a problem in which the alternator will not charge the battery. The battery died because the light stayed on through the night so I just decided to jump it. I drove the truck to my next job, and after turning it off, it would not start again. I was suspicious of the alternator, so I did the old and dangerous pulling off the battery terminal to check the alternator trick and the truck just died. The strange thing was that the alternator would run the truck just fine, but just would not charge the battery at all, and if the problem was a dead battery, why would the car die when the battery terminal was disconnected? Now, I've looked through this issue, so I know I shouldn't rely on the alternator to charge the battery, but it should at least give it enough charge to start up again.
Since then, I've replaced the Alternator, Alt. Belt and the Voltage regulator, but I am still having the same problems. I am thinking of replacing the battery as well, but I don't think that would solve my potential charging problem. I have a multimeter (Hell if I know how to use it) and guts. If anyone has any ideas, I'd be grateful. Thanks in advance.
Since then, I've replaced the Alternator, Alt. Belt and the Voltage regulator, but I am still having the same problems. I am thinking of replacing the battery as well, but I don't think that would solve my potential charging problem. I have a multimeter (Hell if I know how to use it) and guts. If anyone has any ideas, I'd be grateful. Thanks in advance.
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Cary/Rocky Mount NC
its probably the battery. if you didn't let it charge back up enough or if it went too dead then its probably not good anymore. take it to advance/autozone/pepboys/whoevers and let them test it.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Radisson Sask
With the multimeter you should get 14-15v when the truck is running and the alternator charging. with the truck turned off you should get 12v if it is less than 12v then try charging the battery on a charger and see what the results are.
For the multimeter turn it to Volts DC and if you have a scale for VOLTS DC then use the 0-20v or whatever is close to that. connect the red wire to the +ve and the black wire to the -ve of the battery. Also check your battery connections to ensure they are clean/good. And always wear safety glasses when working on batteries the acid if they explode is not good for vision.
For the multimeter turn it to Volts DC and if you have a scale for VOLTS DC then use the 0-20v or whatever is close to that. connect the red wire to the +ve and the black wire to the -ve of the battery. Also check your battery connections to ensure they are clean/good. And always wear safety glasses when working on batteries the acid if they explode is not good for vision.
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From: Vancouver, B.C.
The battery was labeled October 2005 I believe, but it's been accidentaly discharged quite a few times. I tried checking the voltage when the battery was charging just before I bought the new voltage regulator and it read like 12.3V or something like that, but that was a wee bit higher then what it was at when it was standing. Anyway, I tried hooking it up to the eliminator and it didn't charge it, so I'm pretty sure that battery is fubar'd.
I'll get another chance to take a look at it tomorrow, but even when the battery is dead, it's strange that even though the alternator can run the truck, it dies when the battery terminal is disconnected. Maybe wonky wiring or bad ground?
I'll get another chance to take a look at it tomorrow, but even when the battery is dead, it's strange that even though the alternator can run the truck, it dies when the battery terminal is disconnected. Maybe wonky wiring or bad ground?
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From: Cary/Rocky Mount NC
thats what i was thinking franklin. Our ambulance was running at 12.9 and it was screaming at us to turn the high idle on, or the load off... so i doubt 12.3 is enough for a truck.
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