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i got a 93 F150 4 wheel drive. it has the 351w in her. was wondering what
the timming should be on it? and is there a good timming that might help
fuel milage some?
Stock spec is 10° BTDC, but a lot of folks have advanced a degree or two from there without any problems. Best power and economy will come when timing is advanced as possible without experiencing any knock. I usually set timing by advancing the timing until I hear knock, then retard the timing a degree or two from there.
Set it to the spec and leave something on the table? For the record, my truck's running right on 10° right now because, well, it pings any more advanced than that, probably due to age and mileage. 100000 miles ago I could run 12 easily. As it is, I still have to run 89 octane to keep it from pinging even at the factory spec.
I'm not the "people" that you speak of, Bruce, and no one has ever gotten any business from me setting the timing on my truck by ear.
Quicklook, it's not a waste of time either. Moving that distributor still changes the timing, even computer controlled (at least on these trucks). Adjusting the distributor equally changes the advance curve across the entire load/rpm range.
I can see you guys' perspective, though, since not everyone knows what they are doing maybe it isn't a good idea for me to suggest timing by ear to someone else on the board here. I've written an entire spark timing table for an engine on an engine dyno, so I do know a little about what I'm doing.
Set it to the spec and leave something on the table? For the record, my truck's running right on 10° right now because, well, it pings any more advanced than that, probably due to age and mileage. 100000 miles ago I could run 12 easily. As it is, I still have to run 89 octane to keep it from pinging even at the factory spec.
I'm not the "people" that you speak of, Bruce, and no one has ever gotten any business from me setting the timing on my truck by ear.
Quicklook, it's not a waste of time either. Moving that distributor still changes the timing, even computer controlled (at least on these trucks). Adjusting the distributor equally changes the advance curve across the entire load/rpm range.
I can see you guys' perspective, though, since not everyone knows what they are doing maybe it isn't a good idea for me to suggest timing by ear to someone else on the board here. I've written an entire spark timing table for an engine on an engine dyno, so I do know a little about what I'm doing.
Would you mind posting that timing table when you get a chance?
Even if you know what you are doing, and Eric is definitely in that crowd, I wouldn't suggest to anyone to set their timing by ear. There's just too much margin for error.
Also, even if you can't actually hear knocking, it might still be happening. If it were me, I would not move it past 10 BTDC.
Would you mind posting that timing table when you get a chance?
It's for a 600cc Honda motorcycle engine in a Formula SAE race car, but if you want the table anyway, shoot me a PM or email and I'll send it to you. We set the table for MBT while monitoring a knock sensor...
10 degrees for stock or 12 to 14 for a little more performance and than spout back in
Saying for anyone to set it to 12 or 14 is about like me saying it works best to time it by ear. If I set my truck that far advanced I get such heavy pinging that I wouldn't drive my truck more than up and down the street. I do agree with you folks, though, that for the average person on this board, setting it at the stock 10° is certainly the best thing to do.
Last edited by EPNCSU2006; May 30, 2007 at 03:27 PM.
what works for you or me may not be what works for everyone.
That's what I'm getting at too. You first told me that timing by ear is a bad idea, even though it works for me. Then you turn around and say something along the lines of "if you want more performance, advance to 12 or 14 degrees" because it worked for other members. I'm not questioning your intelligence nor how much you know. What I would like is for you to not hold me to some double standard.
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