I'm looking for some neat things to do to my truck that wont cost me an arm and a leg. So far I'm just going to invest in Cap and rotor and plug wires. I'm also thinking of putting in that engine restorer.. anyone use that before?

Are there any other modifications i can do to my engine that wont cost too much and arent extremely hard to do?

 

Try a new air filter setup, like a K&N replacement...help your engine breathe

a bit more. Headers would probably be the next thing to improve it.

 

Many here say the plugs should be MotroCraft only.....and that a MSD Blaster coil, MSD Cap and Rotor kit and Ford Racing 9mm wires will pep it up too.

I just put the coil. cap, rotor and wires on so I can't say yet......no miles.

Good Luck

 

already dropped in a K&N air filter, heards are a bit harder to do cause theres limited space... unless im mistaken

 

K&N cold air intake, MSD ignition, underdrive pullies, exhuast.

 

I am a strong believer in that restore

 

A major tune and service is no.1 a transmission cooler if it is auto is no.2

K&N filters and underdrive pulleys are a wast of money

 

Ditto with the MSD ignition. I noticed almost no difference.

 

I got a good deal on some used pullies from a member on this site. Well worth my money. The K&N cold air was put on before I had the truck, but the original owner said it made a huge difference.

 

what are underdrive pullies?

 

are there any computer mods I can do that will make it run better?

 

The underdrive pulley rides on the crankshaft and turns with it on piston power. A serpentine belt rides on a groove cut into the pulley, and that belt loops around smaller pulleys attached to the other engine components I just mentioned, forcing them to turn as the underdrive pulley turns. In essence, we've just added a whole lot of extra load on the crankshaft; not only does it have to turn the wheels, but it also has to recharge the battery, cool the engine, and so forth. And that IS a big load!

So, what can we do to lighten the crank's job? Replace the pulley, of course! Like most stock engine parts, the pulley is engineered to: a) cost as little as possible, and b) work reliably for 100,000 miles. <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 align=right><TBODY><TR><TD></TD></TR><TR><TD class=note align=middle></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>Performance is secondary to economy and reliability. For this reason, most pulleys are made of cast iron-just like Grandma's old cast iron skillet. Cast iron might have been cutting-edge technology back when Stonehenge was being built, but for a ride worthy of Kid Turbo's praise, a good, modern pulley should be made of lightweight aluminum.

Think of Grandma's skillet for a sec. It makes great fried chicken, but if you've ever tried to lift it, you know that it weighs a freakin' ton. I'll bet that if you cook fried chicken (Yup, you can actually make fried chicken yourself, without the involvement of anyone from Kentucky), you'd probably fry it in an aluminum skillet. It works just as well, but it weighs about one tenth of what Grandma's skillet weighs.

 

so in other words... your making things easier for the engine? correct? is this job hard and relatively inexpensive?

 

I have to agree with the consensus on the MSD ignition box. MSD Blaster coil and cap & rotor and some Taylor wires made a noticeable difference but the MSD 6A I got only made it run a little smoother. In fact it made it worse at first, causing the idle to fluctuate wildly and making it hesitate and buck under load before I upgraded to MAF. After MAF it seemed to work properly.

 

Bump up the timing to about 13 degrees BTDC from the stock 10 degrees. If it pings back it off until it doesn't. You should notice a slight difference after doing this in both acceleration and fuel economy.