Any ideas? turns over fine but is acting like it is not getting any gas. Checked fuel pump deactivation switch. Checked code and there were 7 oxygen sensor codes. Would that keep it from firing?

 

Name those codes

 

I dont have them in front of me. But they were all oxygen sensor related

 

When you turn the key to the ON position, you should hear the fuel pump prime for a second or 2. If not, check the fuel pump relay.

 

Take a quick look at mini fuse 11 (power to the O-2's) under the hood/drivers side in the power distribution box.

Pull the codes again & post them here.

 

Sounds like the crankshaft position sensor. Usually caused by a burnt valve. THAT is what has just happened to my 97 explorer (197K miles). Cost about $400 at the dealership to replace. However, they have told me that since i have a burnt valve / dead cylinder that I have to replace the "long block" (engine) to the tune of about $4500 +. They claim that valve jobs on these higher mileage engines are not usually successful. Not sure what to do now.........they kind of have me bent over a barrel. I think they just want me to buy a new one during their holiday sales event.

 

The kid just bought a new (not rebuilt) engine from Ford for his 02 4.0 Explorer.
This is a complete engine with heads. It was $3,200.
The r&r (remove and replace) for this engine is by the book @75.00 an hour.

Even with the labor rate this would be cheaper, than $4,500.

 

I suggest you look elseware for service, the "crank sensor" has no connection to a burnt valve, and the need for a long block for a ? burnt valve is suspect.

 

Checked the shrader valve if it has one for fuel pressure, its usually on the fuel rail and it looks like a air valve for a tire.

I had a similar problem with 95 Exploder and it was a fuel pump relay.

 

Thanks Guys for the info. at least I have something to work with now.

After having had my truck in a few different shops for the "wont start" problem and for the "cylinder missing" problem....each time they could find nothing wrong to the tune of about $400 for labor and diagnostics and changing a few parts I "needed". It should be noted that each time the vehicle was unloaded from the tow truck it cranked right up.

This time I had it towed to the dealership. Took them about 1/2 day to diagnose the crankshaft position sensor as why it would not start (according to them). Then once running they confirmed the missing cylinders #4 and #2(pending) as per the OBDII codes (my own scan tool told me that too). They claim that it has burnt valves and that this will require replacement of the "long block" to the tune of $4500 (with discounts) and that they will "eat the costs" for the $400 crank position sensor parts and labor.

I still think I am getting rear-ended here. But not like I can do too much about it. My vehicle is at their shop dis-assembled. If I chose to do nothing, it will cost about $600+ to get it back in rough running order at best. I have to pay for the $400 job already done, plus their diagnostics and labor for finding the burnt valve problem. If in fact they will do the valve job, which they do not recommend, I suspect that it will run over $2000 and still wont be right because I dont trust them. Can't afford a new vehicle and a used one of any quality and usefulness is outrageous too. But you know........they would be happy to help me finance the $4500 for the repairs. UGH!!!

 

How many miles on this puppy? I presume it is an X engine (OHV)!

Still cant get my head around a diagnosis like this.

• Was it running without smoking?
• What is the condition of the oil/coolant?
• Was a proper leakdown performed to diagnose the burnt valves?
• What were the compression readings , dry and wet?
• Are you capable of doing some work yourself?
• Could you pull the heads?

OH! so many questions..........

 

197,000 miles....... X engine. 4.0 L OHV Was running without smoking, just "skipped" in local traffic........on the higway could go 300 miles plus with no check engine light coming on (after re-set) but might come up with a cylinder 4 misfire -pending. Oil was within 3000 miles and coolant was good too, but it did seem to be leaking it from somewhere, I suspect the waterpump might be going too. I was told previously that all cyclinders passed compression check, but one was slightly lower, but still acceptable. I dont have the time, tools or faclities to do any engine work myself.

They claimed that the burnt valve caused the crank sensor to get out of wack or go bad. I have previously had an EGR problem that plagued this vehicle for 2 yrs.........constantly changing parts and finally got an EGR sensor that worked. Had an O2 sensor problem that was lurking too causing other issues that were eventually fixed with replacement. BUT........not sure how those may have contributed to a burnt valve or bad crank position sensor. I work on aircraft and those turbine engines are so much simpler......