Rislone
http://www.barsproducts.com/
I do not use it now, in my own vehicles, namely because my engines are all clean, and have the oil and oil filter changed on precise OCI's.
In a lawnmower, or an engine that is somewhat dirty, I would not hesitate to run the correct amount of Rislone in it.
Also, you can soak rusted bolts, brackets, ect. anything you need to remove - soak them overnight in Rislone. 9 out of 10 times, the parts get loose, and whatever you need removed - is.
I started using RESTORE in my older trucks. A friend of mine who owns several older cars & trucks turned me on to it. I added a can to the wife's D250 with a 360 4bbl 4sp. I have noticed a slight increase in power, it uses a little less oil than before. So if you are driving older stuff you may want to try RESTORE.
Barr's stop leak is also a very good product. It will stop those annoying 4.0L V-6 head gasket leak problems that sip coolant at a slow rate. I used 1/2 container every year in all 3 of my 4.0L V-6's with no problems, -all three showed the weeping head gasket problem before I used Barrs.
I have never used Restore.
I started using RESTORE in my older trucks. A friend of mine who owns several older cars & trucks turned me on to it. I added a can to the wife's D250 with a 360 4bbl 4sp. I have noticed a slight increase in power, it uses a little less oil than before. So if you are driving older stuff you may want to try RESTORE.
I agree, that was a very interesting experience Kermmy. The modern day RISLONE also has an up to date additive package, so it's simply not a "flush" like some products are.
Much safer using Rislone in an older engine, than say a kerosene based oil flush. The later can do more harm than good.
RISLONE, mixed with Marvel Mystery Oil, added to a spray bottle, makes an excellent upper cylinder lube when storing vehicles in the winter. (Snowbelt areas of the USA)
Specifically carb vehicles. Simply, a few quick mist sprays of the Rislone / MMO into the carb. Shut off engine, then store for the winter.
Full tank of gas. Some Stabil in the gas. Disconnect negative battery cable.
Springtime, engine fires and runs beautifully. Other tips:
Unload suspension. You simply take full weight of the vehicle off of the tires, if you are storing the car with your regular good tires and wheels.
Store automatic trans cars in neutral, manual shift vehicles in neutral.
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Read this VOA & come to your own conclusions.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...=14#Post470973
Imo, it would seem we could likely do better, with a qt. of our favorite, fully formulated, motor oil.
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That is the reason nobody says to use 5 quarts of RISLONE in an oil change. You're simply using it to free up lifters, valve springs, ect. in a safer way, than using a straight engine flush, ect. The other oil mixes with Rislone - for safe engine useage.
RISLONE clearly does the job it says it will do, IMHO. For the price it sells for, it's easily worth the price. Not like it's $19.95 a quart or something like that.
Ed
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Read this VOA & come to your own conclusions.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...=14#Post470973
Imo, it would seem we could likely do better, with a qt. of our favorite, fully formulated, motor oil.
That is a great thread on BITOG, paw paw. The poster, UnDummy (what a login name) more of less says what I am saying. I see his points, clearly.
I also agree with him in that if both RISLONE and Auto Rx work, which is the better bargain? $4 Vs $25?
That is also what I was saying too. Nobody uses 5 quarts of straight Auto Rx instead of motor oil. Motor oil has very usefull properties that all engines must have.
If we replace a qt of engine oil, with a qt of something else, without a good addpack, we've just diluted our add pack barrier lubes, ect, by 20-25%, assuming a 5, or 4 qt sump.
If the additive is solvent based, or depends in large part on solvent action to do it's job, to clean things up, that means it goes after the oil on parts, tostrip it off!!!!!
If it doesn't have any, or a weak add pack, with little or no barrier lube, then we've diluted that aspect too, by replacing a qt of fully formulated motor oil, with our chosen cleaner-upper additive.
Don't know about you, but seeing as how an engine needs to be properly lubed, while we're trying to tidey it up inside, I'd sure think twice about wanting to run my engine for 3-4K with a diluted engine oil & add pack.
What I was suggesting was, it would seem, from the VOA on Risoline, one could get the same detergent benifits, by using a good fully formulated motor oil, that was at the same time providing a full add pack, without diluting our barrier lubes, or having solvents to strip away the lubricating oil film, safely do the same job for less money.
If we want to clean up a dirty engine, I assume we'd like to do it as safely & with as few collateral negatives for the engine as possible & this would include excessive metal wear & stopping up the oil filter, pump pickup screen, oil galleries, or getting after seals, gaskets, composet & metal parts.
So it just seems to me it's likely less costly & safer, to just use a good quality, fully formulated motor oil, to slowly & with less risk, get the same results!!!!!
Just some additional thoughts.
We drove it like that for like 6 months and one day,when I was gonna change the oil,I bought some 10W30 and Rislone for it.
Changed the oil and within 2 days I noticed the noise was gone.
It never came back,sold the car with like 170,000 and while other things were making noise,the lifters were not.
I was so impressed,that Ive used Rislone regularly(not every oil change) maybe once a year in all my vehicles.












