Camber Issues
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Eastern PA
Camber Issues
Took my truck to an alignment shop due to crappy steering all around. Mechanic said all he was able to adjust was the toe-in, the caster and camber couldn't be adjusted due to the suspension. Said i would probably need drop brackets to return the suspension to the way it was. When i bought the truck there were 33's on it with some stuffing room. I would imagine its at least 2" higher than stock as far as suspension goes. Anyways i was wondering if Plus or Minus 1-1/2 Degree bushings would do the trick to fix this problem. Here is a the results from the alignment he printed out for me for reference. 
How much of a pain would it be to change these bushings if they were to help. What tools, supplys would i need prior to disassembly. Also, roughly how long would it take?
How much of a pain would it be to change these bushings if they were to help. What tools, supplys would i need prior to disassembly. Also, roughly how long would it take?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: St Louis
There is a bushing kit that replaces the bushing at the radius arms on the frame that can help make caster adjustable. Then there are bushings at the axle that will adjust the camber. Other than that sounds like you are going in the right direction, suspension alignment is one thing that I have yet to brave.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Massachusetts
I've replaced my camber bushings with 2 degree bushings. The tool you need to remove them costs about $70 online. It allows you to pull the old bushings without removing the ball joints. It didn't work for me, I had to drop the lower ball joint and remove the entire knuckle to get the busings out. If your bushings have been replaced recently, they will probably pull out much easier. Mine were rusted solid. I have some photos I took while doing the job if you need to see what I'm talking about. The job took many hours on side one(learning), a only few hours on side two.
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From: Massachusetts
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From: Eastern PA
Would rockauto's bushing with part # of SPICER 6111003 do the trick? Or is this more along the lines of what i want? http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/43200.htm
Im not quite sure on what im lookin at here, so if someone who has had this problem, and fixed it would happen to have some part numbers, or guide me in the right direction it would be very much appreciated.
t4kne - Some pictures would be great, i have an idea on the install, but some pictures would help out tramendously.
mustanginca - I have coil springs up front, the rear was fine as far as everything went. When i bought the truck, it had a mild lift on it with 33's, i put a 3" body lift on it and want to go to 35's but i want to get this camber issue fixed first.
Once again, if someone could guide me in the right direction, it would help me out alot. Thanks in advance!!!
Im not quite sure on what im lookin at here, so if someone who has had this problem, and fixed it would happen to have some part numbers, or guide me in the right direction it would be very much appreciated.
t4kne - Some pictures would be great, i have an idea on the install, but some pictures would help out tramendously.
mustanginca - I have coil springs up front, the rear was fine as far as everything went. When i bought the truck, it had a mild lift on it with 33's, i put a 3" body lift on it and want to go to 35's but i want to get this camber issue fixed first.
Once again, if someone could guide me in the right direction, it would help me out alot. Thanks in advance!!!
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Eastern PA
Originally Posted by mustanginca
F150 my bad didn't ask first. I have f250.
Anyone else have some input that can steer me in the right direction?
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From: Massachusetts
The bushing kit would probably be fine but you still need a bushing removal tool to remove the old ones unless you want to remove the entire knuckle first. That means removing the hub, the spindle,the front drive shaft, top ball joint nut then the bottom ball joint nut. Then remove the knuckle with the ball joints still attached to it. Now you will have to pound the camber bushing out from underneath to knock it up and out. It's not that hard but takes a little time.
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