Blinking O/D light
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Somerset, MA
Blinking O/D light
Towed my 27' camper this weekend for the first time with this truck. It was night and day between towing with this truck versus my old F150. I like towing without having my foot to the floor the whole time! It was only around 100 miles round trip.
The only problem I had was on the way home, my overdrive ON/OFF light on the gear shift was blinking. The OD button seemed to be working, because when I pressed it, it would go in and out of OD. I don't have a tranny temp gauge, but the factory gauge was OK. This did not happen on the way to the campground, and I just used the truck a little while ago, and it wasn't blinking.
I've been pretty lucky with this truck so far, so is this where I get whacked with a huge repair bill?? If anyone has had a similar problem, or might know what's up, your advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks all,
Peter
The only problem I had was on the way home, my overdrive ON/OFF light on the gear shift was blinking. The OD button seemed to be working, because when I pressed it, it would go in and out of OD. I don't have a tranny temp gauge, but the factory gauge was OK. This did not happen on the way to the campground, and I just used the truck a little while ago, and it wasn't blinking.
I've been pretty lucky with this truck so far, so is this where I get whacked with a huge repair bill?? If anyone has had a similar problem, or might know what's up, your advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks all,
Peter
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
The trans were fairly reliable by 02, depending on your mileage and driving style it's most likely a solenoid or sensor. If you do need a rebuild, check out factory tech. He has a rebuild service that looks like a nice finished product.
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From: Somerset, MA
The truck had 66K when I bought it last November. The previous owner towed a 5th wheel, but it appears he didn't beat the hell out of it (from what I can tell).
As far as my driving habits, I don't beat on it. Usually average 30 - 40 miles per day, mostly highway doing between 60 - 65mph using cruise control.
I checked the trans fluid level when I got to work this morning, and the level was right in the middle of the "hot" area on the dipstick. This was after a 15 mile drive to work.
The fluid was red, and didn't smell burnt. Not sure if that tells anything though....
I'm gonna swing by Autozone tonight and see if they'll pull the codes for me.
As far as my driving habits, I don't beat on it. Usually average 30 - 40 miles per day, mostly highway doing between 60 - 65mph using cruise control.
I checked the trans fluid level when I got to work this morning, and the level was right in the middle of the "hot" area on the dipstick. This was after a 15 mile drive to work.
The fluid was red, and didn't smell burnt. Not sure if that tells anything though....
I'm gonna swing by Autozone tonight and see if they'll pull the codes for me.
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From: Millersville, MD
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I had the same problem on my 98 F150. It ended up being internal on the tranny. My father inlaw had that problem also on his superduty. He also had to have to tranny pulled in order to fix the problem.
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From: Long Island USA
Just so everyone keeps an even keel, a flashing O/D light means a fault that involves the transmission.
It can be the ABS sensor on the rear differential, it can be a sensor on the tranny, it can be lots of things.
Get the codes read by someone who can actually get them with the equipment they have. A good tranny shop is probably the BEST bet right now, or a dealer.
It can be the ABS sensor on the rear differential, it can be a sensor on the tranny, it can be lots of things.
Get the codes read by someone who can actually get them with the equipment they have. A good tranny shop is probably the BEST bet right now, or a dealer.
New User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15
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From: Queen Valley Arizona
I had the same problem but it was the small wires that run down the shift lever to the column there is a wire tie that holds the wire in place but the small wires have to bend in the same place all the time when you shift the truck in or out of gear. after a short time the od will stop working for good but its an easy fix there is enough wire to cut and splice but don't put the wire tie back. I've had to do mine twice now hope this is your problem too.
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Somerset, MA
Thanks for all the help everyone, now I've got to find someone to read the codes. I'd like to avoid having the dealer read it, just because you just know that they will find a major problem, even if one doesn't exist....
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Junior User
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From: Somerset, MA
UPDATE:
I bit the bullet today and took it to the dealer to get the code(s). This is what the service write up states:
“Code P0783 (gear 3 – 4 incorrect ratio in memory). Pinpoint test A1 to A10, bad solenoid body.”
The service manager gave me a price of $635 for parts & labor, including a trans flush & fill. Does this sound fair?
He also stated that to change this solenoid, the trans does not need to be removed, only the pan had to be dropped, and it was fairly easy to get at. Is this a DIY job, or one better left to the pros?
I bit the bullet today and took it to the dealer to get the code(s). This is what the service write up states:
“Code P0783 (gear 3 – 4 incorrect ratio in memory). Pinpoint test A1 to A10, bad solenoid body.”
The service manager gave me a price of $635 for parts & labor, including a trans flush & fill. Does this sound fair?
He also stated that to change this solenoid, the trans does not need to be removed, only the pan had to be dropped, and it was fairly easy to get at. Is this a DIY job, or one better left to the pros?
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From: Long Island USA
Bring it to a tranny place, and see what they want for the job.
I can't imagine that solenoid being a whole lot of money, and dropping the pan and changing the fluid isn't exactly an expensive job, so what's the extra $400 for? (assuming $100 for the solenoid, and $135 for the flush)
Not sure if they have to drop the valve body or not, that might add to the expense.
I can't imagine that solenoid being a whole lot of money, and dropping the pan and changing the fluid isn't exactly an expensive job, so what's the extra $400 for? (assuming $100 for the solenoid, and $135 for the flush)
Not sure if they have to drop the valve body or not, that might add to the expense.