Truck was running fine, pulled into the gas station, came out 2 minutes later and nothing. Turn the key and dont have a click or anything. Headlights stay on strong when I turn the key all the way so I dont think it is the battery. I had the starter tested last friday and it was good. selenoid was replaced about a month ago. Any idea what could cause this.

 

Well check for blown fuses.

Then seeing as how the battery seems ok with the lights being strong/bright, but the starter solenoid having been replaced lately, maybe it's time to take a look at it's spade lug electrical connector.

Maybe it's loose, or it's finish is oxidized or corroded & not making good electrical connection.

Just had to replace the OEM starter solenoid, "Amp" brand, spade lug electrical connector, on my 94 Taurus 3.8L, for the very reasons you have.

The connector was loose on the spade lug & it's finish in side where it makes electrical contact was oxidized, but not dirty or corroded, but loose & oxidized enough to cause intermitent, poor, electrical connection & a intermittent no crank/start.

Usually I could just wiggle the connector, or thump the starter motor & it would work for a week, to as long as 18 months, before acting out again.

If that doesn't prove out, try "thumping" the starter motor with somthing like a broom handle. If that wakes it up, suspect the starter motor brushes are worn. I know you said you just had the starter motor tested, but there is Murpheys Law!!!!! lol

If that doesn't prove out, thump the starter relay & see if it'll wake up. If so, replace it too.

Lastly if all that coms to naught, try wiggeling the ignition key & switch, while in the "Start" position, if it wakes up, suspect the ignition switch.

Just some things to try, let us know how it goes & what you find.

 

where is the spade lug electrical connector?

 

On the starter solenoid that you said you replaced, it's the electrical connector, on the end of the wire, that fastens to the starters solenoid "spade lug" electical connection.

On Edit: On the troubleshooting list of things I posted earlier, also add the tranny neutral/start switch, if you have an auto tranny, or the clutch switch, if you have a manual tranny.

If either of those are acting out, the starter solenoid's electrical circuit will be interrupted & it won't crank.

 

how do i check the neutral start switch on the auto tranny?

 

Well you might try wiggling the shift lever while it's in Park, or shift to Neutral & see if it'll start.

If it won't, then get your multimeter out, put it on the 20 VDC range & probe the neutral start switch electrical connector, while someone holds the ignition switch in the Start position. You should have battery voltage there, from the ignition switch.

If not, then back up to the fuse panel & work your way to the ignition switch, to see where your loosing battery voltage.

If you have battery voltage to the Neutral/Start switch, then move to the starter relay & check for battery voltage to it's solnoid coil lead, when the ignition switch is held in the start position. If no voltage there, then you have an open circuit between the N/S switch & the solenoid.

If you have voltage to the relay, but it doesn't click, then suspect the electrical connection to it, or maybe it's solenoid coil is open circuit.

If it clicks, but the starter motor won't run, to crank the engine, check for battery voltage from the solenoids output contacts, to the starter motor.

If you don't have any switched power through the starter relay, to the starter motor, then suspect the relays internal contacts are worn & bad & not making contact,when the relay "clicks"

BTW If your using a analog test meter (one with a meter face with a dial pointer) be mindful of proper meter test lead polarity, so you don't "slam" the meter movement.

Digitial meters arn't so fusy about test lead polarity & will read either way.

Let us know where you are loosing power.

 

found the problem. Turns out it was the wire going from the ignition switch to the solenoid. Thanks for the help.

 

OK, good troubleshooting & feedback.
Good to hear it's all put right, just in time for the holidays too!!!!

 

You probably have problems with wiering ore lock switch. To drive home you can start engine from under the hood shorting small terminal and + lug on solenoid, but be sure, shifter is in P position.