Brake rotors
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New User
Joined: Nov 2006
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Job done
Thanks for all your input. I just finished. The rotors looked like they were pressed on, but when I knocked out the lugs and with a little help of a BFH adjuster the rotor finally separated. Again Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
Oh yes that really jogs the memory. I remembered the washer with all of the holes but got it mixed up with the nut with 4 notches. The "socket" I was sold to remove these only stretched the spring on the auto hub. I didn't have the right socket for the nuts. Boy what a pain that was.
Thanx Cuda you always have the graphics right on hand.
I wonder what is the difference in the nuts. I put everything back in the same order it came out so I had no problem.
Is it supposed to take two different sockets, one for the auto hub and the other for the spindle nuts?
Thanx Cuda you always have the graphics right on hand.
I wonder what is the difference in the nuts. I put everything back in the same order it came out so I had no problem.
Is it supposed to take two different sockets, one for the auto hub and the other for the spindle nuts?
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 555
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From: Cincinnati OH
Originally Posted by tjbeggs
I think Neal is talking about the locking washer thingy that goes between the two spindle nuts. Pretty much the best way to get that thing out is with two 90* picks. having the truck on a lift at chest level helps alot too but thats a little more expensive!
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by skittlejr
do you guys actually bend down the tabs?
BTW: Torque the hub nuts, rotate Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten inner nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back it Off 90 Degrees. Tighten to 1.8 Nm (16 Lb-In). Back off the nut to align the little pin into the washer. Too Loose is better than too tight IMO. The torque for the outer lock nut 217-278 Nm (160-205 ft lbs)
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Cincinnati OH
Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
. Too Loose is better than too tight IMO. The torque for the outer lock nut 217-278 Nm (160-205 ft lbs)
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 555
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From: Cincinnati OH
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: West Palm Beach, Florida
Wiggle, pry or dig the little half-moon lock clip out of there and then use a 2 3/4" deep socket to remove the big, rounded nut. It has flats on it and the socket will slip on it and turn it. You can get the big, deep 2 3/4" socket at any decent parts house with an automotive tool section for about $13. It will say right on it that it is for 1 ton ford and chevy auto hub spindle nuts in the Dana 60. It will click when you're turning it out. Just keep going and it will come out after about a dozen revolutions. If you're switching over to manual huibs you will have to get the new manual hub spindle lock-nut kits for your truck and the special socket that fits the four notches in the round lock nut. You can get it at the same tool display, usually. If you're switching and you need the new lock nuts you can get them on ebay for around $20-$25. The kit from Warn is about $90.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 555
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From: Cincinnati OH
oh, so the little clip and the 2 3/4" nut is something specific to my auto locking hubs. although i dont remember it clicking like the nut with four slots in it.
hey, hauler, you got a lot of 350's, you can only drive one at a time, so how bout letting me take care of one for ya. i almost said too many,but you can never have too many.
hey, hauler, you got a lot of 350's, you can only drive one at a time, so how bout letting me take care of one for ya. i almost said too many,but you can never have too many.
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