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Well I went to my buddy's shop and he has a pretty expensive Snap-On programmer. We hooked up my truck and found some stuff. This is probably going to be ugly. I think I need to sell it or junk it!!
P1218
P1271
P1272
P1273
P1274
P1275
P1278
All of these said "High to low side open"
Here is a list of fault codes for ya.. https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...sel_Codes.html Your P1316 might be just a loose under the valve cover 9 pin connector.. mine was loose, both sides.. by almost a 1/4".. Made a shim to slip under the plastic locking tabs.. bad design.. Ford fixed it in 2002.
In your first post (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...no-firing.html ) You stated that your starting problems started on a camping trip. Did you do something to your truck while camping? Off roading, stump jumping, pond hopping, creek jumping, all could bounce stuff loose and get water where it shouldn't be. That is a lot of codes for a truck that was running good until one morning. You have also replaced a lot of parts in an attempt to fix the problem. Are you sure you got everything hooked back up. Do you have any chips or programs in your truck?
No, I've had starting problems since I bought it last October... Right before the camping trip, I got hung up in some mud though while I was backed into a hole getting fire wood.... But at first, I thought it was Glow Plug related, but apparently it's not. The computer system thing had all kinds of different tests and the GP system tested fine...
No chips or programs...
Also, Thursday morning it got down to about 45 and it wouldn't start... Well Thursday night I plugged it in... I came out and it started right up, which made me think GP... But the GP system tested fine... It's frustrating....
Will a computer hook up like that sense a bad alternator??
Last edited by justinthompson10; May 18, 2007 at 09:30 PM.
Weak batteries will create all sorts of starting issues. A bad alternator will make weak batteries. I would think that weak current to the computer could cause it to do strange things also. I guessing here, but a weak signal from what ever could throw a code. I would get the charging system back to par. New alternator, batteries if needed, clear all of your codes and try again. Most of time, a bad alternator will cause the battery light on the dash to light up. If you had it checked and it was checkec correctly and shows bad, replace it. Have your batteries tested, unhooked and tested one at a time. If one is bad, replace both. Make sure all cable ends are clean and shinny. Don't crank more than a few seconds on each attempt. The starter get very hot, very quick. I would not crank more than 10 to 12 seconds max. Good luck and let us know.
This just doesn't make sense... It got colder last night than it did on Wednesday night when it wouldn't start... The only difference is that I had it parked on level ground last night. I went out this morning and it fired right up...
Note: the above starting requirements for both 7.3L and 6.0L Powerstroke Diesels assume the following:
Sufficient Base Engine Oil Level and Pressure
Acceptable Quality Fuel
Sufficient Fuel Pressure
Sufficient Air Supply
Proper Glow Plug Operation
Proper Injection Timing (PCM Controlled)
I would make sure you have the requisite 10.5V to start. A cheap multimeter on each battery before starting and after starting to see the charge rate at idle. Then have someone increase rpms and see how much if any difference you see. I know it doesn't make sense it would start one day and not the next but you gotta start somewhere.
Edit: moving along further, since it is intermittant, have you tried bypassing the fuel pump shutoff switch when it won't sart? Also, the truck needs 100rpm to sart and proper injector timing so have you tried putting the old cps back in? I would try disconnecting the fuel heater next time it won't start too. Then I would start looking at the ICP and IPR.
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; May 19, 2007 at 11:39 AM.
I had the batteries tested the other day before and after starting and they were fine.
How do I bypass the fuel pump shutoff switch?? Where is that located??
I have not tried putting the old CPS back in. However, I may go buy one of the new ones for 35 dollars and put it on. Also, how do I disconnect the fuel heater??