quality cab corners
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,037
Likes: 9
From: Kasson, Minnesota
Not only cab corners, but other sheet metal patch panels also, I just wish we had options for a more quality guage steel. The thin stuff is great for the the do it yourself on a budget guy, but for the more quality restoration, I would like a better gauge steel to at least match original.
I just found out not too long ago that my cab needed corners from my buddy who is working on my cab. Didn't know until the paint was stripped down to bare metal that he seen some pin holes. Anyway, he said he was going to put them on and wouldn't be too bad. I didn't bother asking him where he was getting the corners, because most corners are a thin metal anyway. As long as he gets them to fit decent. I would rather have a rust free corner that didn't fit "exact", than a rusted out original one. Most patch panels will do their job. You just don't want one that you have to coax too much.
I just found out not too long ago that my cab needed corners from my buddy who is working on my cab. Didn't know until the paint was stripped down to bare metal that he seen some pin holes. Anyway, he said he was going to put them on and wouldn't be too bad. I didn't bother asking him where he was getting the corners, because most corners are a thin metal anyway. As long as he gets them to fit decent. I would rather have a rust free corner that didn't fit "exact", than a rusted out original one. Most patch panels will do their job. You just don't want one that you have to coax too much.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
From: in country near Boone, IA
Dennis and all.
I ordered all the cab body repair panels for my 78 F250 from BOTP (a site sponsor) and they were all pretty decent guage material, except the cab supports were thinner and a different design than originals. The cab corners were way off, every angle and bend was not even close to originial. Needless to say, the cab corners and cab supports were sent back. I kept the door post repair pieces and the floor pans as quality was good. FYI all these pieces were stamped in China. Go figure.
I ordered all the cab body repair panels for my 78 F250 from BOTP (a site sponsor) and they were all pretty decent guage material, except the cab supports were thinner and a different design than originals. The cab corners were way off, every angle and bend was not even close to originial. Needless to say, the cab corners and cab supports were sent back. I kept the door post repair pieces and the floor pans as quality was good. FYI all these pieces were stamped in China. Go figure.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
From: Calderwood
Originally Posted by johaner78
Dennis and all.
I ordered all the cab body repair panels for my 78 F250 from BOTP (a site sponsor) and they were all pretty decent guage material, except the cab supports were thinner and a different design than originals. The cab corners were way off, every angle and bend was not even close to originial. Needless to say, the cab corners and cab supports were sent back. I kept the door post repair pieces and the floor pans as quality was good. FYI all these pieces were stamped in China. Go figure.
I ordered all the cab body repair panels for my 78 F250 from BOTP (a site sponsor) and they were all pretty decent guage material, except the cab supports were thinner and a different design than originals. The cab corners were way off, every angle and bend was not even close to originial. Needless to say, the cab corners and cab supports were sent back. I kept the door post repair pieces and the floor pans as quality was good. FYI all these pieces were stamped in China. Go figure.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
That can happen.
I keep telling people all the time to be very careful about Sheet Metal products.
Thanks for the feedback... It is noted for future reference.
Did you contact BOTP to increase their quality of these products ?
I keep telling people all the time to be very careful about Sheet Metal products.
Thanks for the feedback... It is noted for future reference.
Did you contact BOTP to increase their quality of these products ?
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 867
Likes: 0
From: Eastern Pa
I recieved the cab corner from Dennis Carpenter. While it is the thin metal, the fit is perfect. I couldn't believe the difference. Now, how do most of you put them on? Do you butt weld it or lay it over top and use plastic to smooth it in?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Colorful Colorado
depending on how bad your rust is...
I cut at the bodyline, welding it on making sure not to heat the metal too much or it will warp, be sure that the inner cab corner is in good condition too...mine was not, I cut out the rust there as well and fabricated a piece from a unibody panel I had laying around for a minivan. The unibody panel was perfect thickness and matched up well to the old metal.
I treated the area with a rust inhibitor and then tacked the corner on going over it in spots to let the metal cool. I then grinded the excess smooth and hit it with a small layer of bondo (be sure to smash you bondo good to work out any bubbles).
After the bondo dried, I sanded some more until it was smooth and free of any disturbances, than I hit it with primer and it is ready for blocking and sanding.
The last thing to do will be paint but I have to wait until all the body panels are done. It has taken me over 8 months to get it to this point but I am sure I will be painting within the next 5-6 weeks.
The other option is to use a chemical bonding agent to bond the new panel on, I don't like the way it looks, but I am a little more picky.
I cut at the bodyline, welding it on making sure not to heat the metal too much or it will warp, be sure that the inner cab corner is in good condition too...mine was not, I cut out the rust there as well and fabricated a piece from a unibody panel I had laying around for a minivan. The unibody panel was perfect thickness and matched up well to the old metal.
I treated the area with a rust inhibitor and then tacked the corner on going over it in spots to let the metal cool. I then grinded the excess smooth and hit it with a small layer of bondo (be sure to smash you bondo good to work out any bubbles).
After the bondo dried, I sanded some more until it was smooth and free of any disturbances, than I hit it with primer and it is ready for blocking and sanding.
The last thing to do will be paint but I have to wait until all the body panels are done. It has taken me over 8 months to get it to this point but I am sure I will be painting within the next 5-6 weeks.
The other option is to use a chemical bonding agent to bond the new panel on, I don't like the way it looks, but I am a little more picky.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 3
From: Dracut, Massachusetts
im looking into getting a set of cab corners for my truck, i dont know wether to spend 20 bucks at botp, or 60 bucks at dennis carpenter. usually u get what you pay for, but it seems like with corners it doesnt matter, what do you guys think?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 3
From: Dracut, Massachusetts
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Tabco makes their pieces in the good old USA (Cleveland, OH I believe). They're top quality and priced right. I've used their cab corners and door skins. Their website is http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/
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