Brake needs/idea opinions?
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From: Franklinton, NC
Brake needs/idea opinions?
I've got the shudders in the front end. I've started hauling 4k-5k loads of steel to be recycled. I use a heavy duty trailer that has electric brakes BUT they are not hooked up yet. (Can't find anyone who knows how) I use every trick to take it easy on the brakes but finally I'm getting what feels like warped rotors. These were new about 40k miles ago and Cyro slots and Hawks pads sound great but $$$$$$$. 
So, here's my idea... let me know what you guys think. Have the stock rotors turned and install the Hawk LTS pads. Check the pins(?) for corrosion and fix if needed. Run this until the money is right for the slots.
Whatta ya think?
Thanks, CedricR.
So, here's my idea... let me know what you guys think. Have the stock rotors turned and install the Hawk LTS pads. Check the pins(?) for corrosion and fix if needed. Run this until the money is right for the slots.Whatta ya think?
Thanks, CedricR.
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From: 21791
The only way to stop the rotors from ever warping again is to get those Cryo'ed PS, $150 a side. Brake pads at $70 an axle. You can turn the rotors down, but they will never be the same as "new" stock ones, plus they will warp just as fast as the ones you have now did.
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Yeah, i have been putting off the new rotors and pads for a while. I would love to get the slottted and hawks, but $$$$$$$
My buddy set me up with a deal to get me the complete set front and rear heavy duty Wagner rotors and heavy duty Wagner pads for and even $300. He told me that retail is almost $600. I think I am going to go that route, but since I am still putting it off and not towing anything, I guess I'll see when the time comes.
My buddy set me up with a deal to get me the complete set front and rear heavy duty Wagner rotors and heavy duty Wagner pads for and even $300. He told me that retail is almost $600. I think I am going to go that route, but since I am still putting it off and not towing anything, I guess I'll see when the time comes.
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From: Franklinton, NC
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
The only way to stop the rotors from ever warping again is to get those Cryo'ed PS, $150 a side. Brake pads at $70 an axle. You can turn the rotors down, but they will never be the same as "new" stock ones, plus they will warp just as fast as the ones you have now did.
The money issue is that it's time for new tires all the way around. So, is it new tires and bad brakes or new brakes and worn out tires? Remember the old saying "If it's not one thing, it's another"? Sometimes if it's not one thing , it's a dozen.
CedricR.
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From: 21791
Its not wholly the pads that make the rotors warp. It's heat, and applying pressure to the disc, and then creating a heat soak in the pads and the rotors themselves. When you stop, the heat isn't being distributed equally around the rotor as the pad squeezes, it stops and then all the heat gets to sit there while air cools off the rest of the rotor. repeated braking like this makes them warp. A nice thing about the Powerslots is they are slotted, so it wicks away some heat from the pad each time one passes the pad.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Bellingham, WA
I just had all new brakes put on at Les Schwab for under $1000 using Ray Bestos parts. Calipers, pads, rotors, the works. Nice to have a truck that does not shake anymore. Unfortunately this is my busy season or I would have done them myself and saved a bundle. Now I need tires as well, so I feel what your saying cedman.
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