rotor removal...
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 2
From: Malvern, Ohio
On 4x4s you will need a special socket for the lock nuts that hold the bearing and rotor on. I havent done rotors on a 95 F250 yet but you will need a socket for sure made for just that. And If i remember right, the Ford explorer around that same year has 2 lock nuts so expect 2 lock nuts on the F250 but I could be wrong they might use a different style on the heavier trucks.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
I bought the socket ,about a year ago. I could not get torque I needed ,it kept slipping off, so I called the autoparts place and they confirmed it was the correct socket.long story short is the bearing had siezed up. I put it in the shop on that one.now I'm kinda gun shy. thanks for the input, Bob
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 2
From: Malvern, Ohio
Yeah, I hate using the special sockets sometimes you either get the on straight n twist or ya just fight it n slip off. but ya live n learn. One thing ive learned about loosening very tight or rusted nuts or bolts is soak it in soap n water (heavy duty degreaser) n pop it loose with a hammer by hittin the breaker bar or whatever you use.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 2
From: Malvern, Ohio
Automatic locking hubs? if so, tighten inner locknut to 50 ft-lbs then back it off n tighten between 30 n 40 ft-lbs.
Manual locking hubs? if so, tighten locknut to 70 ft-lbs WHILE rotating the wheel back n forth to seat the bearing, put pressure on the locknut and back off 90 degrees then re-tighten the adjusting nut to 15 - 20 ft-lbs. - Courtesy of my mr Haynes manual.
Manual locking hubs? if so, tighten locknut to 70 ft-lbs WHILE rotating the wheel back n forth to seat the bearing, put pressure on the locknut and back off 90 degrees then re-tighten the adjusting nut to 15 - 20 ft-lbs. - Courtesy of my mr Haynes manual.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 23
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the hubs are manuel. My haynes book is loned out . I seem to get my slippage on the socket on tightening.since I just use a 1/2" drive ratchet w/extension the tightness seems to be (my) issue. I done this once before and i was not sure if tite enuff,, 2 weeks later smoked bearing and welded to spindle.what in genrel is 70 lbs. Somethinng I can relate to. suuch as titeness of lugs verses battery terms in ft lbs? I would buy a torque wrench, buut with socket slipage on the titening ....it just may be more than i am capable of relating too. thanks for your time , Bob
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2003
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If you have the 4600 lb axle it's probably the Dana 50 TTB. Does it have an inner locknut with a pin on it, then a lock ring with little holes in it that mate with the pin? On these axles, you tighten the inner locknut to about 50 ft/lbs to seat the bearing if you've just packed 'em. Then back off and retighten to 35 ft/lbs, then back off about 90 degrees. At this point there should not be too much pressure on the bearings. Fit the lock ring in there and back the nut off until the pin fits. Install the wheel and check for play. You should not have any play in the bearing if you try to move the wheel by holding it at the top and bottom and pulling/pushing in and out. Then you install the outer lock nut and make it as tight as you can. By the way-I don't think auto or manual hubs have any bearing in the issue-
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