br2 wouldn't start not gettin gas..i read a thread here that said to reset the switch..i tried it and she started right up several times..today the same prob not gettin gas..i'm thinkin faulty inertia switch..can i temporaraly disable it to rule it out as the problem?? or bypass it??

 

i took the swtch out..it looks fried lol..i'll look for a new one.unless i can bypass it

 

Yes, to test the inertia switch, unplug the harness and (preferrably) use a piece of heavy enough (10 to 14 gauge) wire with male blade quick disconnect terminals OR a paper clip and see if that is the fault. You may also have a short in the circuit causing the inertia switch to trip, or the fuel pump relay may be acting up causing the inertia switch to trip. If in fact it is the inertia switch, I recommend replacing it RIGHT AWAY as it is a safety feature so you don't damage the engine or have a fire in the event of a collision. Hope this helps

 

E1AZ-9341-B .. Inertia Switch (marked: E1AE-9341-A1A; E1AE-9341-A2A; E1AE-9341-A2B)

NOTE: E1AZ-9341-B IS REPLACED BY: 4W7Z-9341-AA FTE sponsor DIRECTFORDPARTS shows the switch at $45.00 list; $31.02 FTE member net.

Fits: All 1981/87 passenger cars; 1980/88 E-F-U100/350's; 1983/88 Rangers & Bronco II's.

Note: The original E1AZ-9341-B switch is very touchy. A shopping cart rolling against the bumper can set one off. Ford finally got around to changing the design in the late 1980's.

 

i by passed it for now..but that wasn't the only problem it still wasn't getting gas..i wiggled some wires around and it works for a while..also the red batt light is on so i think it might be a short somewhere..i'm lost with electrical stuff lol

 

That's usually a sign that your alternator is shot, so, you may have a few other issues to fix as well.

Number, I am guessing I must be lucky or maybe my inertia switch was replaced already with a "good" one or the original was the newer design or whatever, because as much as I get bounced around on some of the rough streets, roads, and interstates around here let alone when I was in Washington state... *shrug*.

 

Well, I remember back in the early 1980's that cars were being towed into dealerships service departments all across town...the inertia switch had tripped...mostly caused by grocery shopping! Shopping carts bumping bumpers, ppl hitting concrete poles was the usual cause. The switches were a new thing, ppl then (as now) didn't bother reading the owners manual, so when the car wouldn't start, into the dealer they would go. The outfit I worked for then reset them in the service driveway...no charge.

 

Here is a link for those having inertia switch problems and for how they work.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...tiaSwitch.html .... hope it is helpful!

 

i recently bought a used 93 ranger 4.0 that drove great untill about 2 weeks ago drove it about 20 miles from the house and it fell on it's face like it was out of gas it would start but not enough rpm and would stall so i thought it was the fuel pump but the next day went back to get the truck and she fired right up like nothing was wrong so i tried driving it back to the house but got about 10 mile away from house same thing again so i left it there went back the next day got it back to the house and she started it again so i changed the coil pack not it then i changed fuel pump worked untill i drove it about 30 miles then it started acting up again the fuel pump would shut off and on finally got where i was going and started looking over it with my dad and he said something about an inertia switch so we found the switch and the two wires were spliced together and he said you can do that but we got it started again and after about an hour of it running those wires got hot enough to bister my fingers with electrical tape on them could someone tell me how to fix this

 

ford501979: you'll probably need to go through the fuel pump circuit and find the short. Might be in the fuel pump itself. The fuel pump circuit is a pretty straightforward DC circuit. I'd probably start with a visual inspection to see if there are any obvious places where the wiring/conduit has been torn or worn through.

 

The inertia switch is mounted in the wrong place, it is mounted under the heater core. As they get older, the heat from the heater core will make the inertia switch trip. Mine did that and it baffled me for a little while, until I bypassed it one day, and it fixed the dying problem. I bought a new one from Ford, it is newer design, and it comes with a pigtail long enough to route it over behind the kick panel. After that, it has never given me any more problems. Good luck.

 

Thanks to all the posts, I found a burnt connection at the inertia switch, that has given me fits for a couple of years. I believe this is an issue Ford should have addressed. It makes sense that if the fuel pump is failing, it could draw higher amps, and while not enough to pop the fuse (20 amp) it is enough to take out the weak link, the connections, like the one at the inertia switch, and / or the contacts themselves in the switch itself. The connection was absolutely melted away, and would make intermittently, but would always fail when you least expected it to. Have picture of plug, if anyone wants to see the failure point,