Hey all......

Newbie here. Looks like a great forum!!

I will be replacing ball joints in my '98 Explorer Sport, SOHC 4.0, Automatic, 4WD.

I did a search and found much info on the subject. However, I didn't see anything about replacing the wheel hub nut. My Chilton's says in bold type, in about 3 places, "Never reuse wheel hub nut and washer. This nut is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused"???

Any thoughts or comments?? ? ?

Thanks!!! For any info!

 

it is a crimp nut style lock nut.

 

i have reused several, no problemss. if you have doubt, put loctite on it.

 

I've replaced 3 hubs and reused the same nut,, no problems,, about to install a new hub this weekend..

 

Yeah I always just use some lock-tite.. never had one come off.

The whole "never reuse the nut" is a cover-their-butt statement.. and yes while some of its "self locking" ability may be reduced when reusing... I believe the lock-tite makes up for that.

Good luck

 

Hey guys, while we're talking front hubs; I read somewhere in this forum (but I can't find it right now) that the front hubs can be removed & replaced without touching ball-joints or tie rod ends, by removing the big hub nut, then sliding the CV Shaft in (towards the diff) about an inch. O yes, remove the brake caliper & rotor also. Apparently this will give just enough room to get a socket onto the 3 bolts that hold the hub in place.. Does that sound right ? One of mine is getting a little growly... I have a '98 Explorer, SOHC 4.0, Automatic, 4WD). Thanks.

 

Sorry to hijack your post but I'm doing the hub replacement this week on my 99 Exp 4x4 also but I don't know what size socket to get to remove the center hub nut.

 

From what i remember,all you do is take off the caliper, rotor but first take off or losen the center nut. Once those are off i'm not sure if theres a shield there or not, there are 3 there that hold the hub on. Remove the center nut, remove the 3 bolts and tap around the hub with a hammer. mine came off pretty easy. It should then slide right off the shaft. you dont have to move the shaft in .

 

Yes you can get to the bolts without taking the suspension apart. Yes the axle is in the way but not by much. You can shove it in about 3/4 to 1 inch and get just enough clearance for a swivel socket or an offset wrench. I believe a 1/4" socket and extension will just barely fit in there as well, but may not provide you with enough torque to break it loose.

Good luck.

 

I've never actually replaced a spindle nut in any vehicle that I have worked on. I just make sure to crank em on there tight and haven't had a problem.

 

the three bolts that hold the hub on are 15 mm heads. by sliding the axle shaft inward, you can get better access to the bolt heads. i use a 6 point craaftsman box end wrench to loosen them with a 5 pound hammer. get something you can beat on and wont break. hard to get a ratchet in with a socket.

 

Steve/Jaystersj/MazdaRangerGuy, thanks for the info. I'll have a go at it this summer.

 

I believe a 32mm socket fits the large axle nut.. I could be wrong though might be 30mm

 

Hard to believe that growly hub bearing lasted this long. I don't drive it much. When the growling changed to grinding I figured it was time, so I replaced it last week. Thanks to Steve(ill), Jaystersj, & MazdaRangerGuy for all the helpful info. The axle nut is 32 mm (1 & 1/4 Inch worked for me) Thanks again guys.

 

yea, i have heard guys say they had a whine for 10k miles before they finally changed the hub... a few knicks in a bearing will make quite a nosie and still function. normally the noise drives you crazy befor the bearing really falls apart.