I have a 76 F150 w/360. Ran okay to begin with but the carb was junk. So I replaced it with a basic 2brl Champion from Autozone. Took the old carb off and put the new one on. Put every back together as it came off. Not missing anything. Put some gas in the dry carb, went to start it up and it back fired when trying to start. After that, all it does is turn but no sign that it wants to fire up. So I pulled the #1 spark plug to see if I was getting any spark...the spark was faint and orange...thought it was supposed to be blue, don't know. On top of that, the spark plug smelled like gas real bad. Thought maybe the spark plugs were gas fouled. Spark plugs needed to be changed anyways, so I did that. Also thought maybe the coil was bad, replaced that as well. Double checked the wires made sure they were all right. They are fairly new, as well as the Dist. rotor and cap.
Did have a little problem finding where the number 1 wire went on the Dist. Tried a few diagrams online, but still no help. I just can't get the darn thing to fire up.
Like I said, it started before and as soon as I put the new carb on, it won't start.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,

Matt

 

Check your dwell on the points!! Make sure the distributor is tight and not moving.

 

It doesn't have a point system. Any other suggestions?

Thank you

 

Yep. :)

Problem is you don't know for sure the spark is weak.
Trouble started with the new carburetor.

Accelerator pump working?
Any chance of water in the fuel bowl?
Fuel level?

I replaced my dead-original ignition module in the late 70's with a Standard Motor Product's "Blue Streak". Not adjusted for inflation they are still like 1/2 the dollars now as they were then.

I also put a Standard Motor Product's coil on it almost 15 years ago when I -instead- had a little water (forms clear Jello) in the fuel bowl. :) That problem was driving me nuts coming and going! :)

Anyway I like the new hotter coil, but mostly for its threaded terminals. :)
Standard gives you a choice on that, I chose the threaded terminal style and cut out that dumb (made for the assembly line) clip on cap.

My suggestion for anyone else doing that is to do like I did and turn the coil in the clamp so the tachometer terminal is facing the driver's side.

Alvin in AZ

 

Backfired through the new carb on startup from fresh install. Did you leave it up to dinga ling to set the float and idle mixtures for you ? Put the PCV tube back on correctly ? Quite sure the carb is on without base plate issues ? New means new not correct....and in Auto Zones case dont even mean either

 

Well, I decided to go ahead and put the old carb back on to see if I needed to start trouble shooting something internal. And what do you know, it starts right up. The carb is weak but it starts up. So I took that piece of crap back and got my money back. Any suggestions on a good 2brl carb that would be worth buying? Just a daily driver, no need for high performance.

Also, can you maybe give any tips on things that might want to look at or adjust when I do get a new carb and put it on? Things to do before firing it up? Thanks in advance for any comments.

Matt

 

A Holley 350 CFM 2 barrel carb would be the way to go.

 

I have the one I rebuilt just before tearing into the 352 and uypgrading to a 4bbl... you can have it... ship it on your dime... worked great on the truck.. has a 4bbl adapter plate if you need it. PM me or respond..