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still won't start

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Old May 6, 2007 | 09:32 PM
  #16  
wyazel1's Avatar
wyazel1
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Do you have spark? My 78 just wouldnt start after I did some work to it last week, I had no spark at all. Come to find out there was a broken ground wire coming off the coil. But the wire was broken inside the insulation so it wasnt visibly broken it looked fine.
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 09:49 PM
  #17  
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Jermafenser
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From: MD
Don't throw parts on it.

Start by how it acts when you're trying to start it up.

So, how does it perform when you turn the key?

Cranks? Clicks? What?
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 10:03 PM
  #18  
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ihateminimumwage
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From: Oregon
If it's backfiring through the carb, it's most likely a timing issue. You might just have the dizzy one tooth off. I had that problem with my truck, took a little while trying to get it in right, but eventually it worked.

What do you mean you can't get a timing mark with a light? You just don't see it at all, or what? I used a white out pen on mine, put a thick line on the 0 degree mark, and a thinner one at 8 degrees (where my timing is set).
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 10:07 PM
  #19  
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still won't start

No offense taken, but I'm not throwing parts at . IT REALLY, REALLY needed them. I have both fuel and spark... however, the spark is weak orange color. See my previous post... the distributor had the lower teeth sheered off and the oil pump was frozen up. I THINK it's coming down to a missing amplifier? I'm still researching that one. Know where it's location is? When I crank it over it SOUNDS LIKE it wants to start but won't. If I do swap out the motor with the 360, then I will tear into the 351m and find out if their was more damage done. I did'nt see anything else damaged but, who knows until I look. My best guess is thats it's either timing or electrical in nature. When I first replaced the distriutor and oil pump I was able to get it to start and run 2 times, each lasting about 1 minute before it died. It backfired through both ends. Now it backfires through the carb when it loads up but, otherwise turns over great, just won't start. Oh yeah, the timing mark does'nt even show up when cranking over and the timing light can barely be seen when it flashes. Light works great on other engines...go figure.
 

Last edited by Ron Lee; May 6, 2007 at 10:10 PM.
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Old May 6, 2007 | 10:25 PM
  #20  
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Jermafenser
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From: MD
I was confused there for a moment - someone merged two threads. Okay.

Amplifier? The vacuum amplifier?

If you're getting weak spark, then look at ignition.
Plugs - new ones? If not, look at 'em. What condition are they in?
Spark plugs wires? Crank it in the dark and get a water spray bottle. A few spritz will reveal if the plugs are leaking electricity.
Rotor and cap not pitted? Is the distributor 180 degrees off?
Is the coil OK? Tested it yet?
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 10:26 PM
  #21  
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ihateminimumwage
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From: Oregon
I just went back a read most of the posts.
If you're getting a really weak spark, it could be a coil problem. Try putting a spark plug into the end of the coil wire, see how that fires. If that looks good, your plug wires could be shot.
Have you tried putting the timing light to any of the other plug wires, to see if they make it flash better? If they're all firing weak, follow it back to the coil.
If the coil isn't the problem, you can run a jumper from the battery positive to the coil positive, that'll give it full power, and you'll get a good spark then if your plug wires are good.

When you get the weak spark problem sorted out, you'll be able to fix the timing problem, which will get it to stop backfiring. Then hopefully you'll be driving it out of there.
Good luck, and let us know what else develops!
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 11:09 PM
  #22  
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Mil1ion
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Here are a couple of things for your benefit.






One thing you need to check is the small wires that run to the distributor to make sure the whole ignition system is secure.

Go slow......Be thorough.
 
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Old May 7, 2007 | 12:12 AM
  #23  
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From: Montana Territory
Okay simple test...

Line the 0 mark on the balancer up with the timing pointer, and pull the number one cylinder plug, make sure the piston is up. Check to make sure the rotor is pointing at the number 1 plug wire. If they aren't, don't pull the distributor out, just move the wires around to the correct order and move the distributor so it looks as close to center as possible. This assures the correct order and timing, persay, it will start and run at 0, but don't drive it like this.

A new coil runs $14-$25, if yours is old, it may be cracked and low on the insulating oil and causing low voltage. This is very common.
 
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