4x4 shift on the fly
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 851
Likes: 0
From: N. Georgia
ESOF 4WD Troubleshooting
It is easier to troubleshoot the system if you have a “Mityvac” vacuum pump. Turn the ignition switch to run (you don’t have to start the truck) and the air controls to vent and the fan control to low. If the truck’s vacuum pump comes on wait until it stops running before each test (open the hood and you’ll hear it better). First you need to remove both lines (left and right vacuum lines) from the hubs. Plug the passenger’s side line and attach the vacuum pump to the driver’s side line. Switch the dash controller to 4WD high. The vacuum gauge should go to 10 in.-Hg. or higher. (It should hold the vacuum at 10 in.-Hg. or higher for 45 seconds on engage and 15 seconds on disengage.) Repeat the test plugging the drivers side and testing the passengers side. If you have the right amount of steady vacuum the problem is probably in the hubs. If you do not have the right amount of vacuum or it is bleeding off, plug the lines back on the hubs and go to the next step. Second remove the vacuum lines from the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock). This is the solenoid located on the passenger side fender well behind the battery and in front of the vacuum pump. Plug the vacuum tester into the lower hose and wait for the vacuum pump to build back up and shut off. The vacuum gauge should read and hold steady at 10 in.-Hg. or more. If it does, the vacuum reservoir should be fine and not leaking, so go on to the next step. Third, plug the bottom line back to the bottom of the solenoid and hook the vacuum gauge to the top barb of the solenoid (not the vacuum line but to the solenoid itself). Try switching between 2WD and 4WD again. The gauge should read 10 in.-Hg. for 45 seconds on engage and for 15 seconds on disengage. If it doesn’t it is probably the solenoid (PVH) on the fender that needs replacing. This was my problem so this was as far as I have gone. If all these things check out, THEN you need to go to the hubs and check them for leaks with the vacuum tester. Most of the time it’s a fuse, PVH, vacuum line or vacuum pump and not the hubs.
Have fun, Joe
It is easier to troubleshoot the system if you have a “Mityvac” vacuum pump. Turn the ignition switch to run (you don’t have to start the truck) and the air controls to vent and the fan control to low. If the truck’s vacuum pump comes on wait until it stops running before each test (open the hood and you’ll hear it better). First you need to remove both lines (left and right vacuum lines) from the hubs. Plug the passenger’s side line and attach the vacuum pump to the driver’s side line. Switch the dash controller to 4WD high. The vacuum gauge should go to 10 in.-Hg. or higher. (It should hold the vacuum at 10 in.-Hg. or higher for 45 seconds on engage and 15 seconds on disengage.) Repeat the test plugging the drivers side and testing the passengers side. If you have the right amount of steady vacuum the problem is probably in the hubs. If you do not have the right amount of vacuum or it is bleeding off, plug the lines back on the hubs and go to the next step. Second remove the vacuum lines from the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock). This is the solenoid located on the passenger side fender well behind the battery and in front of the vacuum pump. Plug the vacuum tester into the lower hose and wait for the vacuum pump to build back up and shut off. The vacuum gauge should read and hold steady at 10 in.-Hg. or more. If it does, the vacuum reservoir should be fine and not leaking, so go on to the next step. Third, plug the bottom line back to the bottom of the solenoid and hook the vacuum gauge to the top barb of the solenoid (not the vacuum line but to the solenoid itself). Try switching between 2WD and 4WD again. The gauge should read 10 in.-Hg. for 45 seconds on engage and for 15 seconds on disengage. If it doesn’t it is probably the solenoid (PVH) on the fender that needs replacing. This was my problem so this was as far as I have gone. If all these things check out, THEN you need to go to the hubs and check them for leaks with the vacuum tester. Most of the time it’s a fuse, PVH, vacuum line or vacuum pump and not the hubs.
Have fun, Joe
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by JOE-M
ESOF 4WD Troubleshooting
It is easier to troubleshoot the system if you have a “Mityvac” vacuum pump. Turn the ignition switch to run (you don’t have to start the truck) and the air controls to vent and the fan control to low. If the truck’s vacuum pump comes on wait until it stops running before each test (open the hood and you’ll hear it better). First you need to remove both lines (left and right vacuum lines) from the hubs. Plug the passenger’s side line and attach the vacuum pump to the driver’s side line. Switch the dash controller to 4WD high. The vacuum gauge should go to 10 in.-Hg. or higher. (It should hold the vacuum at 10 in.-Hg. or higher for 45 seconds on engage and 15 seconds on disengage.) Repeat the test plugging the drivers side and testing the passengers side. If you have the right amount of steady vacuum the problem is probably in the hubs. If you do not have the right amount of vacuum or it is bleeding off, plug the lines back on the hubs and go to the next step. Second remove the vacuum lines from the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock). This is the solenoid located on the passenger side fender well behind the battery and in front of the vacuum pump. Plug the vacuum tester into the lower hose and wait for the vacuum pump to build back up and shut off. The vacuum gauge should read and hold steady at 10 in.-Hg. or more. If it does, the vacuum reservoir should be fine and not leaking, so go on to the next step. Third, plug the bottom line back to the bottom of the solenoid and hook the vacuum gauge to the top barb of the solenoid (not the vacuum line but to the solenoid itself). Try switching between 2WD and 4WD again. The gauge should read 10 in.-Hg. for 45 seconds on engage and for 15 seconds on disengage. If it doesn’t it is probably the solenoid (PVH) on the fender that needs replacing. This was my problem so this was as far as I have gone. If all these things check out, THEN you need to go to the hubs and check them for leaks with the vacuum tester. Most of the time it’s a fuse, PVH, vacuum line or vacuum pump and not the hubs.
Have fun, Joe
It is easier to troubleshoot the system if you have a “Mityvac” vacuum pump. Turn the ignition switch to run (you don’t have to start the truck) and the air controls to vent and the fan control to low. If the truck’s vacuum pump comes on wait until it stops running before each test (open the hood and you’ll hear it better). First you need to remove both lines (left and right vacuum lines) from the hubs. Plug the passenger’s side line and attach the vacuum pump to the driver’s side line. Switch the dash controller to 4WD high. The vacuum gauge should go to 10 in.-Hg. or higher. (It should hold the vacuum at 10 in.-Hg. or higher for 45 seconds on engage and 15 seconds on disengage.) Repeat the test plugging the drivers side and testing the passengers side. If you have the right amount of steady vacuum the problem is probably in the hubs. If you do not have the right amount of vacuum or it is bleeding off, plug the lines back on the hubs and go to the next step. Second remove the vacuum lines from the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock). This is the solenoid located on the passenger side fender well behind the battery and in front of the vacuum pump. Plug the vacuum tester into the lower hose and wait for the vacuum pump to build back up and shut off. The vacuum gauge should read and hold steady at 10 in.-Hg. or more. If it does, the vacuum reservoir should be fine and not leaking, so go on to the next step. Third, plug the bottom line back to the bottom of the solenoid and hook the vacuum gauge to the top barb of the solenoid (not the vacuum line but to the solenoid itself). Try switching between 2WD and 4WD again. The gauge should read 10 in.-Hg. for 45 seconds on engage and for 15 seconds on disengage. If it doesn’t it is probably the solenoid (PVH) on the fender that needs replacing. This was my problem so this was as far as I have gone. If all these things check out, THEN you need to go to the hubs and check them for leaks with the vacuum tester. Most of the time it’s a fuse, PVH, vacuum line or vacuum pump and not the hubs.
Have fun, Joe
Joe,
Thanks for the help. I started to check the system tonight.
The drivers side line has no vacuum at all with 4x4 on or off. I plug the drivers side and repeat the test on the passenger line and there is vacuum there both with 4x4 on and when switching off.
There was no loss of vacuum on the left side. That kinda eliminates a bad line. I just wonder if the PVH can fail only on one side.....
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
quick question about the 4x4 when the vacuum lines or if some thing else is leaking will that keep the switch from lighting up or the indicator on the cluster.tried my 4x4 after got stuck in mud and nothing no lights on the cluster or switch. thanks for any help
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by countrycar
I had a similar problem happen to my trcuk. It ended up being the vaccum hoses on the top of the Ft steering knuckles. They dry rotted and where just hanging there. In case you are not sure where this is,you will find them by the FT shocks. If you apply pressure to the hoses,the one that collapses as you pinch them with your fingers is the vaccum hose you will want to inspect and replace if you find it damaged. I didn't see any damage to my hoses, but to the touch they were literaly falling apart in my hand. Well I replaced them both and I've never had anymore problems with my truck locking into 4x4. Hope this helps yah out. I do have pictures of the hoses in question, I just dont know how to post them here. I can send them via e-mail if you still need them. countrycar@hotmail.com Take care.Country
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
i eat hybrids
1999 - 2016 Super Duty
22
Sep 10, 2011 06:33 PM
