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Next cold start, first open the hood take a screw driver and cross out the 2 big terminals on the GPR for at least 30 seconds. Jump in the truck and start it up. If it fires right up and runs smooth, your GPR or wiring are bad and the GP's are likely OK. If it starts up good but stumbles for 5-10 seconds then clears up you may have a couple GP's that are weak or bad, or the wiring going to them.
BTW: You can short out the GPR for 2 minutes without causing any damage when it's below zero F. But if it's 50-60F degrees 30 seconds will be good enough.
BTW: The wait to start light may go off but the GPR is still energized. Watch the volt meter. When it swings towards charge + the GPR has de-energized. Now it's time to start it.
I've checked the GPR by crossing already. I guess I'm going to pull the valve covers off and run through the injectors and gp harnesses. Does the fact that it runs smooth right as it gets to the N on the temperature gauge and if I plug it in narrow it to glow plugs? If it's below 50 degrees outside it won't start, wouldn't it be the same if it were an injector issue, regardless of outside temperature?
I could be having this problem too
Not wanting too start but will start after cranking awhile.
Checked the GPR with a meter and got 12+V on one big terminal before turning the key.
Dropped to 0V after turning the key.
I can feel and hear it working.
Tried the jumping and it didnt seem to make a difference only held it about 30 sec or so.
It 70-80 degrees out here.
GPR relay bad?
Next cold start check the level in the HPOP before attempting to fire it up. Should be about an inch from the top. If it's low the check valve is stuck allowing it to drain back.
Ok finally got back to it. Took the valve covers off, tested at the glow plug. ohms are .002 on all. I've got 12v to all the glow plugs except for one. Is that enough to make it not start? I need to find a new injector harness for one of the plugs then I will test. BH
.002 isn't a very normal reading. Are you sure you have the meter on the right scale? usually a 10-100 ohm scale. Where are you testing for your ohm readings? Negative battery terminal to ?? (GP, valve cover connector?) Also where are you testing voltage? at the GP connector? even if one wasn't getting juice it should still start.
It has a default for cold.
Its super rich fueling, megga smoker, ect
Default would CEL.
The EOT is the baseline for all. (gpr/fuel/timing ect).
Compression test?
Chip?
Rick
If you did not know it was in default what would you have thought happened.
Rick has first hand experience on this
Explain it. 911!!!
Iam not saying he is in default. Just possible out of range. The EOT can cause havoc on the gp system.
Bill
It was so extreme I shut it right off ..I was on another page a minute ago,, thinking about what the PCM was deciding based on all inputs ,,,the only way it can run lean at start ,,defective sensors ..eot must be most important..Hard to believe it could run that bad ..Its the only time my truck ever came close to the romps
Testing failed that day... Obviously ,mine is working ...
Now that I said it ,,,,,,,,,,
Last edited by Action4478; Jan 29, 2008 at 08:13 PM.
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