spark plug wires
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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spark plug wires
can you test spark plug wires? I went out at night and found no problem with them arcing last night put I am trying to track down this rough idle....also I have noticed that my engine has a valve tap for about the first 1-3 seconds should I worry?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 6
From: Abilene Kansas
you can check the resistance in the wires. put it on ohms setting and touch your leads together, it should peg the multi meter. than touch the two sides of the wires and get a resitance reading
Matt
Matt
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 3
From: Magnolia, TX
Originally Posted by fordboy_52
you can check the resistance in the wires. put it on ohms setting and touch your leads together, it should peg the multi meter. than touch the two sides of the wires and get a resitance reading
Matt
Matt
What's the "acceptable" resistance range for "good" wires?
CMOS
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 601
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From: Denver
Lifter rattle at startup is usually due to the lifters leaking down while the engine is off - the checkvalves usually leak due to varnish buildup. In my experience, you can often fix this by running synthetic oil for a couple of oil changes, especially if you select a synthetic oil like Delvac 1 that is rated for both gasoline and diesel engine use. (The synthetics, especially diesel rated ones, have more detergents.)
If the wire is bad, most likely the resistance will be more like infinity. However, the rough idle is not likely to be wire-related in my experience.
If the wire is bad, most likely the resistance will be more like infinity. However, the rough idle is not likely to be wire-related in my experience.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2007
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Just had a thought that might help. Many vehicles require a "pressure" gas cap and there is even a warning that fuel may spray out when opened.
I just replaced the gas cap on my old '83 for a few bucks. I don't know if it will help either me or you but at least I've eliminated one more item that may be forgotten.
Can't hurt but may help.
Carl
I just replaced the gas cap on my old '83 for a few bucks. I don't know if it will help either me or you but at least I've eliminated one more item that may be forgotten.
Can't hurt but may help.
Carl
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 586
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My last 3 Fords, a 97, and02, and a 1999 all got the rough Idle between 50-70,000 miles, and all needed new plug wires. I have been replacing them with Magnecor when I have the money. Jumped my gas mileage by 1-2 MPG on the Cougar. The B4000 I didnt have the cash yet to do, so it just got some cheapies.
In all cases, the wires fixed the problem for me.
In all cases, the wires fixed the problem for me.
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Freshman User
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oil & sticky valves
Maybe try running "Rislone" oil treatment every other oil change...in replace of a quart of oil. I have 109,000 on my ranger; and after 3-4,000 on every oil change. I usually run a quart once a year, but not in winter...the oil is still yellow/gold after every change. It's supposed to clean out the gunk in your engine & free the lifters/valves.
-I guess it's working cuz' from the looks of the oil, I have a clean engine.
Anybody else run Rislone, mystery oil, or sea-foam?
-I guess it's working cuz' from the looks of the oil, I have a clean engine.
Anybody else run Rislone, mystery oil, or sea-foam?
Last edited by bleedinJDgreen; May 3, 2007 at 11:42 PM. Reason: response to Rubydist
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
darascal, on your 3-4 second, start up engine tic, are you using something other than a Motorcraft oil filter?????
Has the "tic" been there since you bought your 3.0L with 170K on it, or did it come about AFTER you sprayed solvent into the intake, to tidy things up in there?????
Are you using the specified weight & API service grade, crank case lube????
Has the "tic" been there since you bought your 3.0L with 170K on it, or did it come about AFTER you sprayed solvent into the intake, to tidy things up in there?????
Are you using the specified weight & API service grade, crank case lube????
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
OK, well I'd loose the Fram & use the specified Motorcraft filter, as it has the bypass valve setting properly specified & located for your engine & filters mounting position, same for the anti drainback valve & has the proper pressure drop across the filter media, so you don't get cold dry starts.
Also go with the specified viscosity & API grade crankcase lube, for your engine & the expected temperature range it'll see during the upcoming OCI.
Let us know how the "tic" responds.
Also go with the specified viscosity & API grade crankcase lube, for your engine & the expected temperature range it'll see during the upcoming OCI.
Let us know how the "tic" responds.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 601
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From: Denver
Reading these will likely cure you from using Fram oil filters:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/index.html
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/index.html
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 37
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I just had my oil and filter changed at a shop about 2 weeks ago. This was the very first time and last that I will EVER do that.
It was just some generic thing and its sitting in my garbage can right now.
I bought a Motorcraft FL-1A for my 83 Ranger and replaced the oil per owners manual myself. Being retired I could not afford another change so I did it myself.
It starts quicker and runs smoother. Case closed.
Thanks for the other web sites; very interesting reading.
Carl
It was just some generic thing and its sitting in my garbage can right now.
I bought a Motorcraft FL-1A for my 83 Ranger and replaced the oil per owners manual myself. Being retired I could not afford another change so I did it myself.
It starts quicker and runs smoother. Case closed.
Thanks for the other web sites; very interesting reading.
Carl
