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Old May 1, 2007 | 05:58 PM
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Plug Change Reality?

My 00' V10 X is running rough lately. Put in a new air filter, changed out fuel filter. Not much change. Next on the list is to change the plugs. After reading a few posts about the problems with V10 occasionally shooting plugs, I am just wondering if it a better idea to have my mechanic, a staunch Ford Vortec guy, put them in, or take a stab at it myself. If I do it myself, what are the keys? Just the exact right torque....anything else...thank from Colorado
 
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Old May 1, 2007 | 06:30 PM
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There is a sparkplug change how-to in the V10 forum. You'll need to do a search for it though.

I'd do it yourself if you've got the tools, time & patience.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 11:47 AM
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I said Ford Vortec, talk about crossed wires. Anyway, is there a way to pull codes without the computer. My old 94 Jeep had a trick with turning the ignition on and off about 5 times and then the check engine light would blink out a sequence of codes...anything like that here?

I have been idling rough and hesitating or skipping while cruising along at normal rpms, and sometimes while accelerating up the hill. I think something is misfiring, or firing poorly. Can a scan tool determine which cylinder(s) is struggling? What about if the check engine light isn't on? Thanks for any help, I have a monster road trip coming up through the Rockies and down to Mexico
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 11:58 AM
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No tricks to get the code without a scanner. Chryslers had that ability, not anymore.

You can detect which COP is bad with a scan tool.

How many miles are on your truck?
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 12:01 PM
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130K. The guy at AutoZone said the only way the scan tool will pull codes is if the check engine light is already on. Since mine is not, he suggests unplugging an O2 sensor or something to trip the check engine light (?) Sounds odd to me...but I am in new territory on this one
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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Sorry, I meant Ford's scan tool. I have no idea what those auto store tools are capable of besides pulling set codes.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron77
130K. The guy at AutoZone said the only way the scan tool will pull codes is if the check engine light is already on. Since mine is not, he suggests unplugging an O2 sensor or something to trip the check engine light (?) Sounds odd to me...but I am in new territory on this one
That is just not true. I had a mis-fire on number 7 - bad COP that DID NOT set the Check Engine light. It seems that the X, and the SD PCMs don't set the light for just "minor" misfire conditions - it has to get pretty bad before they will.

Any how, I used a "free to borrow" scanner from my local Checker Auto and it told me exactly where the problem was via the Diagsotic Trouble Code associated with #7.

Try it - you may be pleasently surprised - and you may save a $100 charge from the dealership to read the codes.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by emptyd
That is just not true. I had a mis-fire on number 7 - bad COP that DID NOT set the Check Engine light. It seems that the X, and the SD PCMs don't set the light for just "minor" misfire conditions - it has to get pretty bad before they will.
Read this, it explains why the MIL/SES will not come on for lots of things.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...t-come-on.html
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 01:20 PM
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Pep Boy sor Auto Zones scanner will do the job for you.
 
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Old May 2, 2007 | 06:21 PM
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I purchased the Actron super autoscanner and it has been one of the best auto investments I've made. I am able to read codes, reset codes, and watch all the info from the computer sensors in real time while the engine is running, or while driving.

I am able to do the diagnostics for my cars and my extended family, saving a lot of $$ Considering what the dealer charges to read and reset codes alone paid back the couple of hundred dollars for the scanner in one month.

I use it one to two times a month now. I wrote down all the readings at normal operation for the cars, and then I can check them periodically to see if things are changing. This way, I can detect a set of plugs going (o2 sensor) or a fuel filter clogging early (fuel pressure), among other things.

Yesterday, I just saved a friend a trip to the shop when I found the check engine light he had was on due to water in the distributor. (Misfire cylinder 2, Jeep grand cherokee 1997) The computer had latched the light on, even though the problem had gone.
 
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Old May 9, 2007 | 08:36 AM
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I went to Checker, nothing came up on the codes. I think I will just change the plugs anyway. The Chilton's says to use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs into the head, but gives not torque settings, anyone know how tight to torque the plugs down? Thanks
 
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Old May 9, 2007 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron77
I went to Checker, nothing came up on the codes. I think I will just change the plugs anyway. The Chilton's says to use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs into the head, but gives not torque settings, anyone know how tight to torque the plugs down? Thanks
11 ft-lbs according to the Ford Service manual
 
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Old May 9, 2007 | 09:24 AM
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There are varying reports of 11ft/lbs, vs. 14ft/lbs.

Last time I checked my 2001 service manual, it said 168in/lbs which is 14 ft/lbs.

BUT - that's for a 2001. I'd certainly check what your year's service manual says before taking ANYONE's word on it.
 
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Old May 9, 2007 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by krewat
There are varying reports of 11ft/lbs, vs. 14ft/lbs.

Last time I checked my 2001 service manual, it said 168in/lbs which is 14 ft/lbs.

BUT - that's for a 2001. I'd certainly check what your year's service manual says before taking ANYONE's word on it.
I agree. Year 2000 and 2001 are different. Here it is for all years from the service manuals:

Year 2000:

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 border=1><CAPTION>Torque Specifications </CAPTION><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Description </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Nm </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Lb/Ft </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Lb/In </TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Ignition coil bolts </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>5-7 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>44-62 </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Spark plugs </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>9-20 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>7-14 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>



Year 2001:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 border=1><CAPTION>Torque Specifications </CAPTION><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Description </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Nm </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>lb-ft </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>lb-in </TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Ignition coil bolts </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>5-7 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>44-62 </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Spark plugs </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>15 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>11 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


Year 2002:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 border=1><CAPTION>Torque Specifications </CAPTION><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Description </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Nm </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>lb-ft </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>lb-in </TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Ignition coil bolts </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>6 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>53 </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Spark plugs </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>15 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>11 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


Year 2003:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 border=1><CAPTION>Torque Specifications </CAPTION><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Description </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Nm </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>lb-ft </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>lb-in </TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Ignition coil bolts </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>6 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>53 </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Spark plugs </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>15 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>11 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Year 2004:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 border=1><CAPTION>Torque Specifications </CAPTION><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Description </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Nm </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>lb-ft </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>lb-in </TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Ignition coil bolts </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>6 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>53 </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Spark plugs </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>15 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>11 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


Year 2005:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 border=1><CAPTION>Torque Specifications </CAPTION><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Description </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Nm </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>lb-ft </TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>lb-in </TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Ignition coil bolts </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>6 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>53 </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Spark plugs </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>15 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>11 </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle>— </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 
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Old May 9, 2007 | 10:09 AM
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So for my 2000, anywhere from 7-14 ft/lbs is OK? Some of my coil bolts are loose enough to allow some minor lateral movement of the coils, is that too loose?Thanks
 
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