I haven't scanned them yet.

I know, I should already have them available

 

No problem. I like the '78 Federal engines over the '79 Federal engines, too.

 

so a completely unrelated question, but does this mean I can run long tube headers without being hassles (california)

 

The temperature vacuum switch can be done away with if your state doesn't care. It will raise your idle to provide more cooling to the engine by advancing the timing; That's its main purpose.

A relatively stock engine won't ping at WOT with those heads; they are just fine. You may get ping when you hit the throttle at highway speeds for a moment, and that could be due to a stretched timing chain. Once you have exhausted all other timing checks and vacuum checks, you may want to check for slop in the chain. Do a compression test, and run some carb cleaner through the engine, and maybe a product that will remove carbon buildup on valves. Carbon can create hot spots that will preignite and cause the knock. You want to do this soon before you blow a hole in a piston, or break something else...
Oh, and a bypassed EGR can be adjusted for be reducing your total timing, but EGR valves are actually a good system in that it allows you to run higher timing for more power. Test to see if it is working. Let it run at idle, and apply vacuum to the EGR vacuum hose and see if the idle gets rough or engine dies. If so, it is working fine. The EGR actuator valve should be tested too. It should provide vacuum for the EGR at speeds above 1500 rpm. If it supplies vacuum at idle, or no vacuum at 1500+ rpm, it is faulty.

 

Maybe, maybe not. Depends on the inspector...if he's getting the mirror out, you're gonna fail.

 

MIL1ion...

I went to a junkyard this morning to scope things out. I found a few f150's and vans with the right motor, and although none had the emissions stuff I was looking for (already nabbed) I got a more clear idea of what I'm dealing with.

that large solonoid type thing on the pass side valve cover is for the smog pump, and much of the associated vacuum lines up there support that.

as you mentioned, since I have a federal vehicle, I'll need a vacuum diagram WITHOUT the smog pump in it. Either that 78 one that you had, or just a guess, wouldn't a 77 one be damned close? I'm dying to see how everything is plummed with the smog pump stuff out of the picture.

 

You need a good, smooth advance curve. You don't want to have to retard your initial timing so much that it causes you to lose your low end power.

If you decide to get a new distributor, consider our custom curved Duraspark Distributor built with our new Full Length Oil Impregnated Bronze Bushing. The full length bushing improves timing stability and spark scatter. If stock appearance is not an issue, take a look at our one piece D.U.I. Distributor. Whether you choose the Duraspark or the D.U.I., we curve each on a distributor machine based on your engine combination. Please see them at:

http://www.performancedistributors.c...stributors.htm

 

Haha! PerfDistIgnition, I just finished recommending the D.U.I. ignition from your company to someone on another forum!

I hope to use one on all my old Fords soon. What a great service you provide! If one makes changes to his/her engine down the road, can you recurve to suit if it is sent back, or at least recommend the changes to the distributor for the customer to perform?

 

I appreciate the help from all here, and while I still need that one vacuum diagram, I just drove it around and realized my "detonation" is a rod knock, and my oil pressure drops to 0 after it warms up, and won't come back up at all unless I rev the **** out of it in neutral.

I've had it only 1 week, but that's ok, that's what I get when my impulse does the shopping. fortunately I'm handy as hell with a wrench, and I'm looking into the possibility of a 460 swap

 

A 460 is a good choice... But, if one is not readily available and cheap, you could look into a rebuild of the 400... Make it a beast!

 

I'd say not to worry, it being a '78 Bronco. You'll like it. Trust me.

 

I've had a 91 now and this 78, and spent years with my buddies 88, and my other buddies 80, and can firmly say the 78 is hands down the truck I'd want to own, and I DO own it!!!!


I've been researching the 460 swaps, and it may not be feasible. From what I'm reading, the late 70's 460's are the best, and I really want to swap in a late 90's 460 (low original mileage) however they say the ports in the heads are different, and the carb stuff may not bolt on....if this is the case, It's looking like I may search out for a reman 400 and drop it in, or rebuild it myself.

I could be pissed or worried, however, maintaining a logical head, no one buys a $1000 29 year old vehicle and expects it to purr like a kitten. It'll be a fantastic truck when I'm done....It'll give me a chance to pull the engine and detail out the new one, detail out the engine bay, and put it all together.

 

Hi,

Thank-you!

Yes, we do re-curve our own brand of distributors. If a customer changes his engine combination(new cam, pistons, etc.), he can send it to us to have it recurved OR if he wants to run it in another motor.

In fact, each of our DUI and Duraspark distributors is issued an individual I.D. No., which is engraved on the bottom of the distributor housing. We keep a permanent record of the I.D. no. on file. This way, the customer can call us with his ID no. and discuss whether or not motor changes necessitate advance curve changes.

www.PerformanceDistributors.com

 

Here's the 77.



still looking for the 78 illsutration.