thanks, that will be a huge help, can you post the 77 diagram too??

Also, any clue as to what all the acronyms means? not sure what all those little valves are.

 

Most of this stuff is on my wesbite or in my gallery.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...mDiagrams.html

 

I recently fought this same battle and the diagrams didnt help me 1 bit.

Your best bet is to disconnect the Egr and the vacuum advance pot on the distributor, then plug all the vacuum ports. Time the motor as I've said(38* at full mechanical advance) then drive it that way, It will drive like a dream with no pinging if the motor is squared away and the distributor is good.
This is a good start and will get you to a known good point to go off of. After you've done this I'll walk you through step two.

 

OK, I can do that.....I've got to swap out the rod bearings first, and that will probably be next week.

those diagrams do help, but naturally my smog stuff is slightly different than those pics, my motor doesn't have the same valving coming off the front, I don't have that tall two way, and it appears it never did, and that's part of the egr setup right there.

 

here is a pic of my engine:

in the bottom picture, those dual two ways are responsible for both the vacuum advance and the egr stuff that hooks up to the back, yet you can see I only have one three way.

Is it possible I have a thermostat housing from an earlier or later motor???




closeup




now compare it with the engine from ihateminimumwage

 

I just think the switch is differant. That just stops the egr and vac adv from working when the engines cold. Use it if you want, I don't. Use generic 3way "T's" to get the switch working for whatever devices you want.

 

ahhh, the picture is coming in now.

I REALLY appreciate all of your help with this new venture....just to defend myself a little, I'm FAR from a novice wrencher, however i've been playing with efi 5.0 mustang motors for so long, all I know is efi, and computerized car systems, this is my first carb'd car in 15 years, and I'm having to relearn all of it! Literally the efi stuff comes easier to me right now, but I can't wait to get comfortable again with the old school stuff.

 

Man the PO must have been a mad plumber!

 

Figuring out the vacuum routing is confusing at first, but when you really get into it, it becomes clear. I went the exact same thing when I first discovered I had a mess of a routing.

I also have a 400, which calls for more devices (more hoses...). If you don't seem to find a match when comparing the diagram mil1ion provided for your year and engine application, most likely it's a federal emissions vehicle rather than CA emissions. Your being in CA (don't know if you live in a smog-checking county...) will most likely require you to reinstall the routing as it left the factory.

Does your Bronco still have the rating plate found on driver's door intact? If so, read the DSO code and tell what it is.

 

OK, like the rest of the damn truck, it's been freaking rattle canned and painted over ghetto style, so I can't read dso. I'm assuming we're talking about the tag on the door and not on the door jam right? the tag on the door itself is a stamped steel type and has the following on it:

vin I believe

104 BM U150 AR1 G16J
06100 1978 11


what does all this mean??

Even though it is a cali car, I have flowmasters welded into what "looks" like stock dual exhaust piping (maybe there was never cats) and the gas tank does NOT have that restrictor plate in it (just a straight hole into the tank).


btw, since we're all getting to know each other, here is my $1000 purchase. rust holes in hood and tailgate, otherwise california rust free, and NOT a TTB 80-96 bronco like my last one, lol

here is the "I hate rattle can paint job picture"....but hell, that can be fixed.

 

It can be cleaned off, and you should. Maybe with some solvent.

Here's what it all means. Enjoy the new information.

104 - 104" wheelbase, Bronco only

BM - paint color. Yours originally came with Dark Jade Metallic (B) primary paint, with M being white for secondary color.

U150 - GVW rating. It means the code tells me it has 6100GVW.

AR1 - interior codes. A = Custom Vinyl Bucket seat. R = Jade color interior. 1 = it came with the white removable roof.

G = Ford C6 auto trans

16J = Ford 9" rear with 3.50 gears. J = with Power Steering

6100 - its factory GVW rating.

1978 - model year, so yours a '78.

11 - DSO. It was originally shipped to the Boston MA area. This means your truck was a Federal emissions model from factory. Good news, because it's not heavily smogged as '78 CA models were. The '78 Federal emissions didn't come with catalytic converters, and AIR pump. It could run on leaded or unleaded.

I'm sure you want to go with the factory route, so you won't have to get parts to pass smog in CA, since it wasn't originally a CA model truck. See what it takes to get a "transplant" vehicle to pass in CA.

EDIT: I see you edited your post as well. Yes, it's not a CA model truck as you thought. Indeed, the Bronco never had cats and the restrictor plate.

 

Hey! That pic is a dead ringer for my old Bronco!

 

hahaha, HURAY!!!!!!!! I like keeping everything legit, and that includes my smog checks, so this couldn't make me happier about being a fed truck, thanks so much!!!

 

and since it is 49 state/canada engine. your Calibration code changes to 7-74-R10

which I should have both the diagram an Illustration

 

could you post those? i'm not having luck finding them on autozone site or yours....thanks again!