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ok i really need help on this one ...., i got a 92 with a 302 in it. just recently it has been running like crap, it seams to be spuddering and jerking the transmission. back in the winter like december sometime, i had problems with the egr valve, the machanic said i would replace it but wouldnt worry bout it any time soon, now this was back in dec. the problems will only start as soon as the engin warms up, i dont kno if it is the egr or something else here are the symptoms right now: spuddering, jummpy rpms(even at idle), and it seams to have no power(have to put the pettle in the floor then it sounds really bad accelerating)....
i have no clue what it is, would a bad egr valve cause that(if so is there a way to clean/lube it some how??), or is it the distrubutor????
I would look at some general tune up stuff, plugs, wires that kind of stuff, but being 92, I would also check any electrical stuff on the air intake side. Mass air sensor if you have one, make sure it's clean, and all the obvious stuff. My 302 in the T-bird was doing that, and the new plugs and wires took care of it.
If yours is fuel injected, you could have the fuel pressure checked at the schrader valve, it looks like a tire valve on the fuel rail. I don't know what the spec pressure would be, I think 40+ lbs, I think it may be more than that, the FI guys can help ya there, but if the pump is going bad, it may be able to build pressure, but it may not be able to mantain it as it heats up. Another thing to check, would be the fuel filter, again, they may be good as you first start it up, but if there's a lot of crap in there, the longer it runs, the slower the flow will get, so if you have maybe a rusty tank, or just some crud, it might clog up quickly, even if you just replaced it.
If it's carb'd, check your filters, float position, and mixture. Make sure you don't hear any hissing under the hood, as that could be a vaccum leak, and would throw timing, and other things off.
Last edited by soundman502; Apr 30, 2007 at 03:14 PM.
simple EGR checks would be, first remove the vacume line going to it while your truck is running bad.
If it makes a difference, you found the problem.
If that doesn't do anything, take some gasket material and put it between your EGR outlet and the throttle body (all you will have to do is take the 2 bolts out that attach the EGR and then put it back on). Start it back up and see if the problems occur. If they don't, you found your problem.
If nothing happens with both those tests, you can pretty much rule out the EGR.
Also, if the EGR pumps too much exhaust in, your plugs should be black; that's another thing to look at.
my 1993 5.8 is doing the same thing.....replaced the tps valve a while back and the sputtering went away...just recently it has come back and i just went on a 4 hour drive and after that it got even worse....when i accelerate now it sounds like someone stuffed something down my exhaust..yea it sounds reall funky..also when it is idleing the truck gets real rough and the rpms jump like crazy....the service engine light is not coming on...any help?????
simple EGR checks would be, first remove the vacume line going to it while your truck is running bad.
If it makes a difference, you found the problem.
If that doesn't do anything, take some gasket material and put it between your EGR outlet and the throttle body (all you will have to do is take the 2 bolts out that attach the EGR and then put it back on). Start it back up and see if the problems occur. If they don't, you found your problem.
If nothing happens with both those tests, you can pretty much rule out the EGR.
Also, if the EGR pumps too much exhaust in, your plugs should be black; that's another thing to look at.
so it can be the egr valve causing all the problems??
Have you tried to download OBD codes? They sometimes will point strongly to a malfunctioning sensor or valve. I had problems with hard transmission shifts and detonation at cruise. After downloading the codes on my '93, I found that I had a bad EGR position sensor and a dirty connection at the manual lever position sensor. After repairing these and clearing the codes, the pinging and shifting problems cleared up. Code downloading proceedure using your MIL light is outlined in chapte four of Chiltons repair manual.
You might get better suggestions from the "early Bronco" forum but I would suggest that if you are certain you are getting spark, you might consider one of the other two ingredients necessary for combustion - fuel or air. While the likelihood of the engine not pulling in the necessary air is far fetched, the idea that you might not be getting fuel to the chambers is quite possible.
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