Starter removal
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,423
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From: Colonsay Sk. Canada
Starter removal
K, I fried my starter trying to take it out.
I took ot 2 bolts from the bell housing to the starter, and then two moe on the oil pan since my starter was cnnected there.
something else must be holding but where?
it's a 1949 1/2 ton. 239 by the way.
sorry for such a amateur question but I'm baffled?????
I took ot 2 bolts from the bell housing to the starter, and then two moe on the oil pan since my starter was cnnected there.
something else must be holding but where?
it's a 1949 1/2 ton. 239 by the way.
sorry for such a amateur question but I'm baffled?????
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,776
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
The two bolts that go to the bell housing - don't remove them completely, just back off so they clear the bellhousing. The whole darn shooting match will fall apart in your hands if you remove them.
Holding the starter at the front and supporting it at the back, tip it toward the oil pan and try again. The bendix assembly sits behind the flywheel - that's what its catching on. You have to move the bendix out away from the gear before you go forward. There is just enough space to get it out past the flywheel.
As soon as you get it out, put a couple of 5/16"?? nuts on the end of the long bolts to hold the starter together. You'll be glad you did.
What do you mean, you fried it?
Only other possibility is if the bendix is hung up on the ring gear and jammed. Try rocking the truck back and forth in high gear if you think this is the problem.
Holding the starter at the front and supporting it at the back, tip it toward the oil pan and try again. The bendix assembly sits behind the flywheel - that's what its catching on. You have to move the bendix out away from the gear before you go forward. There is just enough space to get it out past the flywheel.
As soon as you get it out, put a couple of 5/16"?? nuts on the end of the long bolts to hold the starter together. You'll be glad you did.
What do you mean, you fried it?
Only other possibility is if the bendix is hung up on the ring gear and jammed. Try rocking the truck back and forth in high gear if you think this is the problem.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,423
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From: Colonsay Sk. Canada
Originally Posted by mtflat
What do you mean, you fried it?
The 1949 is still missing some parts like brakes, (so a pull start was out of the question) and since the truck was sitting since 1967 probably would never fire on 6 volt, so ya anywho, yep my 12 volt battery did the trick.
Thought if I limited cranking might last but figured this would happen.
Like every other teenager out there too dang impatient.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,776
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
That's why I asked - I've been running a 6V starter on straight 12 volts for the past 6 years. It's a daily driver so it gets started on 12V several times each day. They're not that sensitive.
That's also why I asked if the teeth locked up on the ring gear and you couldn't get it out.
Sounds like something else happened unless you saw a whole lotta smoke leak out of the starter assembly....
That's also why I asked if the teeth locked up on the ring gear and you couldn't get it out.
Sounds like something else happened unless you saw a whole lotta smoke leak out of the starter assembly....
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,423
Likes: 0
From: Colonsay Sk. Canada
hmmmm, interesting. I'm on a travelling construcion crew so I'll check it out on weekend, there was no smoke and seemed fine last crank, then all of a sudden just hear the soleinoid clicking.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,776
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
That sounds like you lost a ground or the battery is drained.
Make sure your electrical connections are all clean and tight including all the grounds - batt to block, block to firewall and cab to frame. More is better.
I've had times when corrosion at the batt posts caused that as well.
Make sure your electrical connections are all clean and tight including all the grounds - batt to block, block to firewall and cab to frame. More is better.
I've had times when corrosion at the batt posts caused that as well.
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