Rear diff wear question.
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Rear diff wear question.
Any thoughts on the strange wear on the LS clutch pack to the right of the ring gear? (I believe that is the right description - the clutch pack?)
It appears to be from the pinion gear lightly rubbing the surface. The tips of the pinion gear teeth were also worn/shiney.
I had a pinion seal leak - fixed by the dealership a few weeks ago.
I also have the classic "clunk" on stop and start - likely from the slip yoke needing to be greased, but I can't break the bolts loose to do it.
My guess is that the sticky slip yoke is forcing the drive shaft aft, causing the wear that ruined the pinion seal, and causing the teeth of the pinion gear to abraid the LS clutch pack.
It appears to be from the pinion gear lightly rubbing the surface. The tips of the pinion gear teeth were also worn/shiney.
I had a pinion seal leak - fixed by the dealership a few weeks ago.
I also have the classic "clunk" on stop and start - likely from the slip yoke needing to be greased, but I can't break the bolts loose to do it.
My guess is that the sticky slip yoke is forcing the drive shaft aft, causing the wear that ruined the pinion seal, and causing the teeth of the pinion gear to abraid the LS clutch pack.
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That is not good, not good at all. That also means that the pinion is mis-aligned to the ring gear. If the pinion is in deep enough to hit the carrier then the pattern is way off, and the ring gear as well as the pinion will wear out quickly. Other than the "clunk" does it make any other noises?
I think it would whine a little. Is the pinion loose? Does it move in or out? Looks like the dealer might not have put enough pre-load on the nut, and the pinion is moving in, and out of the housing.
I think it would whine a little. Is the pinion loose? Does it move in or out? Looks like the dealer might not have put enough pre-load on the nut, and the pinion is moving in, and out of the housing.
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I don't think the bind on the slip yoke would cause enough pressure to ruin the pinion seal. My thought is that the front pinion bearing was failing and allowed the pinion to move inward. Did they charge you for any bearings? If not the tech may have missed the proper torque on the nut and heard the pinion striking the carrier housing either on the lift or road testing it, and had to correct his oops. What ever happened didn't happen for long or the mess would be worse. If the pinion doesn't move up or down the carrier form side to side it doesn't make noise, put her back together fill with grease and count your blessings. I don't know what they get for a new ring and pinion I do know the last one I bought for a 11,000 lb Dana 80 was 800 bucks and that is 5 or more years ago.
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Originally Posted by fordquist
Just went from 3:73 to 4:30. W/bearings and seals total cost was $2700(4x4). If you want, or need the 3:73s I will donate to your cause. I still have the clunk on start and stop as well!
What is "marking compound"? I'm not much of a mechanic - so I'm coming up to speed on some of this.
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Basically its a colored paste like substance you wipe across about 4-5 ring gear teeth, then you spin the pinion by hand and let it go around three or four times and you can look at the area that was wiped away to see exactly where the gears are meshing. If you can get that done and post a pic it will be fairly easy to know if the gears are setup well or not.
You can google "gear marking compund" or something like "setting ring and pinion" and you should find some tutorials and info on what to look for.
Heres an example.
You can google "gear marking compund" or something like "setting ring and pinion" and you should find some tutorials and info on what to look for.
Heres an example.
Last edited by 1; Apr 26, 2007 at 10:05 PM.
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Originally Posted by kotzy
I don't think the bind on the slip yoke would cause enough pressure to ruin the pinion seal. My thought is that the front pinion bearing was failing and allowed the pinion to move inward. Did they charge you for any bearings? If not the tech may have missed the proper torque on the nut and heard the pinion striking the carrier housing either on the lift or road testing it, and had to correct his oops. What ever happened didn't happen for long or the mess would be worse. If the pinion doesn't move up or down the carrier form side to side it doesn't make noise, put her back together fill with grease and count your blessings. I don't know what they get for a new ring and pinion I do know the last one I bought for a 11,000 lb Dana 80 was 800 bucks and that is 5 or more years ago.
Good guess. Should have listened to you more closely a few months ago!
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For what it's worth - My 2000 X has 116k and has pulled heavy trailers since it was new. At 105k the rear end went south and required a full rebuild. The clunking noise when starting and stopping went away after the rebuild and adding 1 pint of friction modifier to the new lube in the rear end. It was the friction modifier that made all the difference!
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emptyd, Glad they got to the bottom of your problem. By the way my previous reply wasn't a guess, 50 years experience would be a better call. I am suprised at the number of times some techs have to go after the same problem, I guess I never liked work that much that I wanted to do the same job over and over. I realize that sometimes we all get one that makes us look a bit harder, but your condition was just too obvious. Kotzy
Last edited by kotzy; Sep 16, 2007 at 08:16 PM.
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I had a rear vibration problem and had the pinion bearings replaced as well. After the fix I still had a vibration even after replacing ujoints. Turns out my driveshaft was bad. Couldn't tell while it was installed. After removing and holding on to the front part with one hand and the rear with the other and twisting, there was a slight looseness in the splines. Bought a custom made one from a company in San Antonio for half the price for a Ford replacement...problem solved.