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Trans cooler lines

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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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Trans cooler lines

Planning on redoing my tranny cooling lines to my new radiator, and bought the 5/16" fitting and copper tubing today. I think OEM's use steel tubing cause it's cheap and they got fancy bending machines, I figured it's be a lot easier to bend and shape the copper tubing for my job.

Does anyone know any reason copper tubing can't be used?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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Jim,

Copper tubing is typically used with compression fittings, steel lines use the double flares. If you can get the right fitting combination I don't see a major problem.
Don't let bending up steel lines intimidate you, its not as bad as it seems, especially if you have the old ones there as a guide. A servicable tubing bender can be bought fairly cheap at most parts stores.

I made my tranny lines from scratch. Got them right the first time. I got lucky and they came out the right length and everything. I didn't even have to cut and reflare anything.

Bobby
 
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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Bobby's got a point about the fittings. I didn't think about that.

On the other hand, the fluid isn't corrosive to copper and copper dissipates the heat better.

Whatever floats your boat, Dude!
 

Last edited by Randy Jack; Apr 24, 2007 at 04:08 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 04:27 PM
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It depends. The copper lines you buy at the hardware store are thin-wall and malleable copper so that they can be bent. They don't have very good resistance to vibration stress, and can crack. Believe it or not, water looks "thick" to compression fittings, hot oil doesn't. It's hard to get a tight seal on oil lines with compression fittings. Be sure to support the lines properly and allow some flex for engine movement relative to the radiator/cooler.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 04:35 PM
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Ditto what Albuq F1 said. My vote would be steel. Hardest part is the flaring but usually a couple practice flares will do the trick.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bememe
Ditto what Albuq F1 said. My vote would be steel. Hardest part is the flaring but usually a couple practice flares will do the trick.
The most important thing to remember on the flaring is to make sure you put the fitting on the line before you flare it (Id rather not go into the details on why I know this......lol)

Bobby
 
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 04:51 PM
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When I get mine done, I'm going to get some hydraulic hose made. Sure it's a little overkill but it is easy to install and can be routed out of the way.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 07:19 PM
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fittings on tube

Hey, Bobby, I've done that too. I think it's part of the initiation to being a do-it-yourselfer.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 05:56 PM
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Usually I find I've forgotten the nut right after the "perfect" flare is formed. Man I hate that.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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I'm with Dueller. The "brittleness" and unforgiving nature of copper tubing runs me off.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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T C Tubes

After your comments and some reading on the subject, I'm gonna route coat hanger wire to plan the routing and go buy the steel tubing. Do you have to have a double flare, or not. I have the single flaring tools, but hesitate to buy the double set, little pricey for a one time use. But if it is supposed to be double flared, I'll figure out some way to get it done.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 07:59 PM
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Jim,

I'm pretty sure it needs to be the double flare. You can get a serviceable double flare kit for a reasonable price (less than $20) at the local parts stores.

Bobby
 
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 11:42 PM
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There are hydraulic service companies around here that will make up a length to the shape you want with the flares and hardware on it, for a pretty reasonable price.

The downside to steel is that you have to design it to be flexible; include some bends, don't run straight to the cooler.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 06:34 AM
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Another downside to copper is that it is softer than steel; therefore if it is installed to where it will rub on anything thru vibration etc, it will get a hole in it.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 06:58 AM
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Copper is a nono! It work hardens then crack rather quickly from vibration. Call the radiator manufacturer and see if the fittings are single or double flare.
 
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