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Got the steel tubing today, found I could buy the "double flare" dies for only 6 bucks, will work on my single flare tool, all set there. Called the US Rad folks, "they think it's single flare", gives you a lot of confidence.
Anyhoo, made the brackets today to install the electric fan onto the radiator, I didn't want to use the mickey mouse plastic straps through the fins.
I suspected it was a single flare, it's not a high pressure application. You can check it by matching the angle of the flaring tool with the seat on the fitting. It will be pretty obvious which is right. As someone already mentioned put an S bend in the line before the radiator, it will make the connection easier and give some room for expansion and contraction as well as vibration absorption. You can see in my making changes gallery the mounts I made for my electric fan and AC condensor out of 1/2" square tubing and angle iron.
I suspected it was a single flare, it's not a high pressure application.
I have an adapter that came with an auxiliary cooler kit, the adapter goes into the stock radiator hole. It is double flared. These are 40 - 50 psig @ 250 deg. F systems, not cool to have them spray onto hot manifolds and such. I'm betting it's a double flare.
Many stock applications use a rubber hose strain and vibration relief in the line held on with standard wire ring type hose clamps. 40-50 # is nothing like the hundreds of # pressure in a brake line nor it it a safety issue, the flash point of tranny fluid is much higher than any engine component it might spray on. Like I said tho easy enough to match the angle of the tool to the fitting.
The PO's set up was 1/4" copper tubing to a finned cooling loop about 6" x 18", oriented horizontally under the splash shield in front of the radiator, with rubber hose connections. Couldn't have been getting much air, and no matter what I'd do, it'd be better. Anyway, sometimes I do something that some consider overkill just for the learning experience, so will be using the steel tubing, double flares, and following all of the advice I've heard here, plus what I've read on the subject. I want to learn how to bend the tubing, do double flares, do a proper routing, considering all the engine movement, vibration, etc. Will mock up with coat hanger wire first, then bend up the tubing. I'm hoping for no leaks, no vibrations or buzzes, and a cool tranny.
Jim, only use double flares if the fittings are made for double flares. Using double flares with fittings designed for single flares is like trying to use a metric nut on a SAE thread bolt, you might be lucky and achieve reasonable success, but it still isn't right and can lead to problems down the road. I have nothing against double flares, but please don't think because of the name they are necessarily twice as good. It is even possible that the fittings on your radiator are not for flares at all (Although likely they are).
It's going back to your original question: Is copper better than steel because it is more expensive? No, and the same with double flares, just because they are fancier and more difficult to do does not make them better if the fitting does not call for them (or even if it does, if your dies do not make them perfect i.e. centered and symetrical they can leak like a sieve).
here's a good write up on how NOT to make double flares ( the author does recognize that the flare was not correct, I just wish he would have included a picture of a properly done double flare. Best thing to do is look at a length of premade brakeline at the auto parts store and carefully examine the flare on the end. http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspensio...etool/ft-2.htm
The radiator has 5/16" inverse flare fittings for the tranny cooling lines. I had assumed this would mean "double" flares. Anyhoo, I got plenty of tubing to practice with. Since in this application there's no high pressure, so I'm sure it doesn't matter that much. Will post some pic's soon of the rad and fan install.
The radiator has 5/16" inverse flare fittings for the tranny cooling lines. I had assumed this would mean "double" flares. Anyhoo, I got plenty of tubing to practice with. Since in this application there's no high pressure, so I'm sure it doesn't matter that much. Will post some pic's soon of the rad and fan install.
Just a heads up, if you want to add a temperature gauge to monitor the temps of your tranny, now would be the time to get the sending unit/block plumbed into your line. If you aren't going to run a tranny temp gauge, then there's nothing to worry about
Today, drilled attachment holes in the rad flanges, installed the brackets, and then fan to bracket. Wired up the fan, temperature controller, and damned if it doesn't work. Tomorrow with take all apart, paint brackets, install wire clips, and button it up.
The idea about installing the tranny temp gage is now on my mind, will consider. Since I'm not hotrodding, or pulling heavy loads may be a bit of overkill.
Practiced making double flanges, so far none have double flanged. Back to the instruction sheets.
Today, drilled attachment holes in the rad flanges, installed the brackets, and then fan to bracket. Wired up the fan, temperature controller, and damned if it doesn't work. Tomorrow with take all apart, paint brackets, install wire clips, and button it up.
Dontcha love it when a plan comes together?
The idea about installing the tranny temp gage is now on my mind, will consider. Since I'm not hotrodding, or pulling heavy loads may be a bit of overkill.
You can never have too much information, Jim. Besides, more gages gives the dash that airplane cockpit look. I added an oil temp gage and manual switches to turn the fans on also. More is better.
Practiced making double flanges, so far none have double flanged. Back to the instruction sheets.
I have heard that they key here is to make sure that the tube is cutoff square first. Then the flaring turns out right. I haven't tried to double-flare anything myself, tho.
You can never have too much information, Jim. Besides, more gages gives the dash that airplane cockpit look. I added an oil temp gage and manual switches to turn the fans on also. More is better.
Keep talking guys, you may talk me into it yet. Like the "cockpit" look.
I cut the tube with a cutter that goes around and around, don't know how to get much squarer than that. But, I'm sure its the nut behind the wheel, will keep trying.
You can never have too much information, Jim. Besides, more gages gives the dash that airplane cockpit look. I added an oil temp gage and manual switches to turn the fans on also. More is better.
I have heard that they key here is to make sure that the tube is cutoff square first. Then the flaring turns out right. I haven't tried to double-flare anything myself, tho.
Also make sure you have a very sharp tubing cutter and cut slowly. That's a major reason I shy away from double flares wherever possible most of the flaring tools on the market even some of the name brand pricier ones don't do double flares very well (none of the typical clamp plate and C clamp type will produce a good DF except by luck), and the cheap off brand ones are nearly useless. I forget which brand it is, but there is really only one hand unit that makes perfect DFs every time. It does not look or work like the typical clamp plate and C clamp type, and costs in the 2-300.00 range. My brother bought one recently to do race car brake lines, he doesn't want one to let go at 170+ MPH! I think John N. bought one as well?