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Just wondering, how capable is our trucks when it comes to mud? I've gotten stuck before from inexperience.. had I known what I was doing, I could have gotten out of that mud pit. If my truck was 4x4, I could have easily gotten out. Some good tires would have helped too. I know the 300 I6 is a MUD EATER hardcore if you have a good set up.
This question is spawned mainly from curiosity. Do any of you have mudding stories? I'd be interesting in hearing them
AmericanMadeFord; My truck has no bells or whistles other than the fact she's a flareside. I thought it was a limited slip rear end for a while, but after doing some research I found out it's not. I was disapointed, especialy after thinking it was for so long. =/
A question; Everyone tells me our rear ends are light. Can someone give me numbers?? And maybe something to compare them to??? I'd appriciate it!
I was always my understanding that a limited slip differential took power from the wheel with the most traction and transferred it to the weaker wheel thus causing a one wheel wonder....while the posi sensed one wheel spinning and locked both to gain better traction......hmmmmmm?are u saying my tech school didn't teach worth a damn?However...if you really wanna get steady traction (for a little while) just weld the spiders together...that's calledinstalling a Lincoln locker...or should I look up the definition for that too?It's too late to think...
I've done some short runs through mud holes (and some stuff that looks like mud, I guess), and made it through most times. My '88 F150 4x2 does'nt have a limited slip, and right now it only has a set of all-season tires on it. I just do the "low gear-high rpm's" thing to get through, and if it's more than a couple of truck lengths long, forget it... that's a surefire way to get stuck with a setup like my truck.
I was always my understanding that a limited slip differential took power from the wheel with the most traction and transferred it to the weaker wheel thus causing a one wheel wonder....while the posi sensed one wheel spinning and locked both to gain better traction......hmmmmmm?are u saying my tech school didn't teach worth a damn?However...if you really wanna get steady traction (for a little while) just weld the spiders together...that's calledinstalling a Lincoln locker...or should I look up the definition for that too?It's too late to think...
if you'll do a google image search you can see how limited slip, posis, lockers, ARB lockers, open diffs, etc. work. both posis and limited slips provide an increased amount of traction, so yes, your tech school taught you wrong. lincoln locking is okay if you're A) a good welder, B) don't plan on driving on the road and C) don't care that it will eat up axleshafts, ring and pinion sets, and tires.
a good locker, posi, or limited slip allows one wheel to go a little slower for things like driving around corners. welded diffs don't allow this, so they put extra strain on the whole rear drivetrain, from the ring and pinion, to the wheel (it'll be drug around the corners). consider a quality locker, or if you really want full lockup, look at a selectable locker like ARB or ox trak. a welded diff is really a cheap way of having a mini spool, nothing else.
and really, if thats what you want, mini spools are cheap and won't rely on questionable welding skills or heat damage your spider gears
My 84 does great in the mud, most of the time I can run the holes in 2wd. I am running 33" mudders with 4.10s, locked rear, and LSD front. It takes a lot to get this one stuck!
My 84 does great in the mud, most of the time I can run the holes in 2wd. I am running 33" mudders with 4.10s, locked rear, and LSD front. It takes a lot to get this one stuck!
What kind of money am I looking at to put posi on my rearend?? What would I have to do??
I bought my ring and pinion sets from 4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers for $400 they came with installation kits (shims, bearings, etc) The Dana Trac Lok LSD came from Bronco Graveyard $200. The Powertrax No-Slip locker for the rear was $460 it was ordered from the local NAPA. If I were you I would get a set of 3.73s from a 4.0 powered Ranger or Explorer with the 8.8 rearend. Don't waste your money on a LSD (posi... GM term) if you are looking to play in the mud. You need a locker, the Powertrax unit I am using is expensive... there are a number of other lockers available for your 8.8 axle. Check out the 4 wheelparts website. Once you have the right gears and diff set up all you need is a good set of meats for the back.
x2 on the locker. I had a Chevy a while ago that I paid (dearly) to have a LS installed in, and after a year, it didn't hardly work. I put in a Lockrite in my ford and love it. It is cheaper than the No Slip, but is supposedly noisier.
I'm no hardcore mudder, but with a locker and good mud tires, I hardly use 4wd anymore. It makes me sad to think I spend all that $$ on converting it to 4wd, only to not use it
Looking back, if I were you, I would put good recovery points front and rear, install a rear locker, and run boggers on a spare set of rims in the rear. From experience, this will save you a bunch of money
It amuses me to no end how some people will buy a 4X4 truck then put the cheapest (street) tires on it they can find and can't figure out why there always getting stuck. On the other hand. People with 2WDs will put good A/Ts on and go through almost anything.
The point? 4X4 is no subsitute for good tires and good driving skill(s)
It amuses me to no end how some people will buy a 4X4 truck then put the cheapest (street) tires on it they can find and can't figure out why there always getting stuck. On the other hand. People with 2WDs will put good A/Ts on and go through almost anything.
The point? 4X4 is no subsitute for good tires and good driving skill(s)
ORB
Yeah that's somethin isn't it?! Most 4x4s are actually only 2wd... one front and one rear tire. I remember the days of open diffs front and rear... don't miss em a bit! It's crazy how much of a difference a decent set of mud tires and a locker in the rear makes!
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