Why do they need a flow chart, they must not know how to work on it. I have looked at the flow charts in the Ford shop manuals and most form some reason end up saying replace the ECU.
You say $370.00 for a top radiator hose, ignition module and the serpentine belt. Sounds a little high but I guess you are in California.
ECU very seldom if ever go bad and the guys that remanufacture them say that 85% of the ECU’s that are sent in for repair are good. Why do they say it is bad?
If it was bad you can get an ECU for about $50.00 from a salvage yard around here.
Yes you would have the old R12 AC system but someone around there should be able to retrofit it for about $250.00 to R134.

I guess my only question is does it crank OK now?

 

I can give you a link to a site that has remanufactured ECU's for $114.00 and they come with a 1 year warranty if you're interested




Jim

 

Yes, the truck cranks now.....they said that the ECU tested bad and that that's why it won't fire up now. I'll think about doing the AC even tho it did get to 96* today. I told them to go ahead an order the ECU as I figured they wouldn't warranty it if they put in a used part. Not that it really much matters at this point. I figure I've got to get it runnin one way or another....even if I just end up selling it, I can't get much for it if it's not running. I'd never get the money back that I've spent on it thus far. I'm hoping that nothing else is gonna go out in it. Thanks again for your help and suggestions.

 

seems strange to have all these problems at one time to me. personally i wound't pay someone else to put on a serpentine and radiator hose unless the labor is free for buying the parts from them. hopefully this will end your problems at least.

 

Well, now I'm in need of the ECU for my truck. It's a 1988 Ford F150 4X4 with a 4.9 inline 6. The part number for the ECU is E8TF12A650AA2B. If anyone knows of where and how fast I can get that part and how much it'll cost me......PLEASE let me know. They want 270 for a new one and I really can't see spending that much on the part if I can get a used one for much less. At this rate I would've been better off putting a rebuilt engine in the darn thing......but then again what do I know...not much when it comes to my truck actually...lol Anyhow, you're help is greatly appreciated....I need to get my truck runnin' and back home with me. Have a Great Week everyone. Thanks

 

I worked at a boneyard for a while and we sold a lot of used computers.....call around and give them your numbers.
I'd keep that bought close too home ....even a used one should have some warranty.

Good Luck

 

Hi Everyone, I've got my truck back home now after paying 425 bucks for nothing as far as I'm concerned. I had taken the ECU in to be rebuilt and was told that there was nothing wrong with it. I told them how sometimes the truck would start and then other times it wouldn't so...they went over it with a fine tooth comb and still came up with *it's not bad*. So I picked it up and took it back to Pepboys and they put it back on the truck. They called me the next day and told me the truck was ready. When I went there, there was a reccommendation that the socket under the distributor be removed in order for the truck to start. I paid the repair bill and the truck started up and I drove it home. I turned off the truck and tried to start it and it did the same damn thing and acted as if the battery was drained. I remember someone in here said that the NSS could be bad and that if I played with the clutch while I tried to start, if it was bad it would start. Well, I played with it and it started right up. So, that tells me that everything that they did didn't fix the problem at all. I've written to PepBoys customer service department about the situation. I doubt that they'll do anything about this whole thing.
Now my question is....where is the NSS located and how do I change it out? Is it hard to get to and to change it? I'll have to tell my son how to do it as I'm physically unable to do it myself. I really appreciate everyone's help in here. Thanks again to everyone!!

 

the only thing pepboys is good for is parts and tires and tire installation.

stay away from the repair department.

 

the neutral safety switch is under dash up above the gas pedal. it has a connector with several wires attached to it. if i'm not mistaken it is connected to the reservoir for the clutch fluid. and i think it is a one piece unit. shouldn't be very expensive. and easy to swap out.

 

If the NSS is bad it will not crank at all, if it turning over (cranking) at all the switch is OK.
The NSS switch opens the power going to the Starter Solenoid to keep the engine from cranking unless the clutch is pushed to the floor.

 

Hmmm, well, If I push the clutch in all the way when I try to start it it seems as tho the batter's drained but if I let out a little on the clutch it starts right up. So, if it's not the NSS, then what could it be? Any ideas? I'm at a loss here.

 

Check yer bellhousung bolts to see if they are tight. Where engine bolts to tranny. Also check the starter for tight bolts. Sounds like someting is in a bind when the clutch is pushed all the way in. Also check cab mounts. If it was me and I wasn't in the habit of leaving the key's in. And all the above is Ok than I would disconect the NSS. With it disconected or in most cases just unpluged it will start in gear. So put it in nuatral and with the cluch out see if it spins free when It normaly won't. ya may have to put a jumper wire across the NSS plug to make it think the clutch is pushed in.

 

Maybe we are misunderstanding you.
What do you mean by "seems as tho the batter's drained"?
Do you mean that it acts like a dead battery and nothing happens?
I was thinking all along that you met that it was cranking slow and would not start.
Please clarify what is going on.
If nothing happens then yes it could be the NSS.

 

Yes, I'm sorry....it's cranking slow when trying to start it.

 

Does it crank the same if the transmission is in gear or out of gear?